Adelaide misunderstood
Trip Start
Nov 28, 2004
1
41
57
Trip End
Jun 11, 2005
Glenelg,
South Australia,
Australia
Thursday, January 27, 2005
Glen Elg has a very attractive jetty area with a tram service that shuttles passengers back and forth between here, the beach end, and central downtown Adelaide. The trams themselves date back to 1929 and are delightful to ride. The seat backs attached to the wooden benches can pivot fore and aft depending on the direction of travel so that passengers always face forwards. The only other place I've seen this is on the ferry from Georgetown to Penang in Malaysia. Where the British also had a great deal of influence. The important word in the last sentence being ' had ' , past tense.
Established in 1836 , Glen Elg is the oldest European settlement in South Australia, Kangaroo island being the first. Wonderfully crafted municipal buildings and churches remain both here and in Adelaide CBD to preserve its rich heritage ( as Australia's ' city of churches' ) The city is surrounded by parkland. By contrast, a more modern development was the man-made ' magic mountain ' built during that frightful period of architecture - the 1980s. It was host to numerous theme park attractions and angrily dismissed by local residents as a ' giant dog turd ' and demolished in 2004. Wanting to find out a little more about this intriguing resort town and city, I spend a few hours browsing around the free museum - the Bay Discovery Center. I learn of Naval achievements and calamities. And take a stroll around the marina - a millionaires playground of yachts, designer restaurants and wine bars. Live jazz and smart trousers.
As ever, I sigh a little at the ever growing number of arrogant new trendies, pouting fashionably over their mochaccinos and sushi. While posing in ' to die for ' clothes and accessories. The same old shit as in Fremantle WA. And I pity the impoverished and unrepresented minority - the dark folk. The aborigines . They are deeply mysterious and always seem to me like they're about to jump out of their skins. I take a chance one afternoon and strike up a conversation with one of them in a pub near the jetty. A placid sounding old chap whom I gather likes the simple pleasures in life. I take an even bigger chance by going back to his neighbourhood after we're both full of piss.
I don't know what happens for sure but there is a commotion as we're thrown out of somebody's house. My new friend begins to shout and curse as he dances up the road like a scorched cat that's been fired out of cannon. It conjures up a scene from a Tom and Jerry cartoon. The strangest thing. Police don't understand it either. They take me back to the Glen Elg backpackers joint in their patrol car, which is very nice of them. Once inside, I find I need a piss and manage to lock myself out of my room. Those security locks are a real bastard. Causing me to have to sleep off my grog in a chair in the lobby, wearing only threadbare underpants that have seen better days.
Next ; Leaving Adelaide, first attempt
