I gotta get a-Weh from here

Trip Start Jun 07, 2004
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36
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Trip End Nov 27, 2004


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Flag of Indonesia  ,
Thursday, October 28, 2004

27th October 2004

Continued from ; Ramma-"damn ! Where's my beer ?"

Another day. At times soaking up the near-isolation, at others pining for some action. Wishing I was somewhere else. Strolling through the " willid " ( the village ) I happen upon a group of long-haired dudes strumming guitars and mellowing out on a high balcony. One of them sells me a newspaper wrap of island bushweed and a bottle of banana brandy. They probably made it themselves and it works well mixed with hot coffee. Potent stuff. But the local herb is practically worthless. There is talk of another island nearby, uninhabited, containing nothing but cannabis plants - so why are we sitting here talking about it and not already in a boat going there ? Because nobody will take us. It's Ramadan. Or else it's just make belief.

Soon, we are tipping back tins of iced Chang beer from Thailand. Buddha has smiled upon us. A beautiful yacht has moored up in Iboih bay between us and Rubiah island. It's most likely sailed down from Phuket and brought some contraband with it. Through the night air, I see the glinting of lights on the deck of the magnificent craft. The muted sounds of a party with girls and music. Denied to us land lubbers. In our period of abstinence among the island's devoted Muslims. I retire to my hammock under the moonlight and listen to the waves, the geckos and the songs and prayers drifting across the water from a distant mosque. The richly exotic sound of it distinguishing this place from any other that I've been. I sometimes wish it were possible to bottle all my senses, to keep for another day. To play back and enjoy again.

I move on to another small bay known as Gapang and rent a small hut at the far end of the beach. At dinner, I am asked by the waitress whether she can visit my hut for an illicit smoke. Evidently she has some of the mellow herb, but requires a little privacy. She calls at my door after the restaurant has closed and we chat awkwardly since I think I know what she's after. She asks for a little present, to which I regret I have nothing to offer her. So she just comes right out with it, and asks for sex instead.

Next ; Banda Aceh
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