From bad to worse
Trip Start
Apr 04, 2004
1
26
34
Trip End
Jun 07, 2004
Gyangze,
China
Thursday, June 3, 2004
Thursday 3rd June
Our unwanted tour-guide does something useful for a change. He deploys his previous experience as a monk to make a deal with the holders of the keys to Gyantse's huge temple complex. We are shown in before the visiting crowds at about 8am. The murals painted within the chambers of the central chorten are intricate and ancient. There are gilded Buddhas and every inch of the buildings interior surface is embellished with artwork. As if switching into auto pilot I begin climbing the stairs. I am curious to know why it is that I always find myself compelled to climb to the highest point of a structure. I greet pilgrims as they exit from the tiny door onto the Chorten's roof space. They are clearly surprised to be greeted up here at such an early hour by a grinning Englishman
1. Gyantse
. " Tashi dele " over and over again. Back on terra ferma there is a noisy and smoky festival going on inside the main prayer hall. Round the corner at ' hotel hot-showers ' the driver is complaining of being sick. He's not sure if he'll continue on. We call the tour company in Lhasa at once and request another driver. We don't want this one getting any sicker and causing the expedition to grind to a halt further down the line. The unwanted tour-guide seems angry that we've taken it upon ourselves to call it in. The driver winces as he clutches his gut and suddenly decides he is well enough to continue. My guess is that the pair of them have been scheming in an effort to cancel the trip. It's clear that things are going to remain on our terms not theirs.
We reach Shigatse - the second largest city in Tibet and home of the Tashilhunpo monastery. This is the seat of the Panchen Lama - second in command to the Dalai Lama. It's a huge construction built along the same cubist lines as the Potala Palace - lots of right angles and red, gold and white paint. Knowing there is a fee to enter and a feeling a bit 'done-in' by the cultural overload, I have a few hours on my own instead and leave the group to get on with it. Back on the road it's a long straight highway through desert where clouds of sand and dust obscure the view and suddenly....whack ! And the dull thud of metal. We've had an accident.
Next ; Demolition derby
