Yangshuo, Mei Yu
Trip Start
Jan 24, 2004
1
27
31
Trip End
Apr 01, 2004
Wuhan,
Hubei,
China
Tuesday, March 23, 2004
23rd March 2004
Presently I am enjoying the train journey from Wuhan to Guilin. Wuhan merits only a quick mention which is that there are two railway stations and a most interesting visit can be had there by seeing to it that your advance ticket is waiting at one of them, while the train is at the other. My Chinese carriage mates have turned their little yellow noses up at the stench from my boots. I think they complaineth too much given their own filthy habits.
The following morning I am in Guilin. I try to find a hostel which is no longer there, another wild goose chase courtesy of the Lonely Planet guide to China. The taxi driver recommends another, but I am suspicious and head directly to Yangshuo by bus. It is pissing down with rain. Finding a room demands slightly more urgency. I cross the street outside the small bus depot and check into the West Street Inn. A double room with cable TV and hot shower and conveniently positioned on the ground floor behind the reception desk suits me well. Though it is the wrong end of my budget at 40 Yuan per night. About three English pounds. Naturally I negotiate a discount since I am still there about a week later.
Yangshuo is a pleasant market town surrounded by a landscape of rivers and miniature peaks . Unique territory for outdoor pursuits like rock climbing and mountain biking. Call me a girl's blouse if you like, but those pursuits are better enjoyed in good weather. At least dry weather.
It is by now Thursday 25th march and it will not stop raining.
Yangshuo
I've checked out the town several times already and it's well geared up for the travelling community with its many bars, internet cafes and a huge number of backpacker hotels - there is one that calls itself Fawlty Towers. I go in to take a look around and meet Basil, the Chinese owner. It seems somebody has died in the night. Kippers are off. I decide that the West Street Inn is clearly newer and better value. I stay put, mindful of that discount I've been promised. 26th March. You'll never guess what ? Its raining. I visit the China Post to send off a parcel of photos, some jasmine tea plus a can of gin and tonic. The gin and tonic is refused and cannot go through the regular mail. Back into the pack it goes.
But the weather is slowly improving. I've had a trip to the hairdressers. I found a restaurant that does a magnificent steak and chips too. Its like Aladdin's cave in there, almost overdone in the way it's trying to match visitors expectations of what it is to be really Chinese. My wallet cowers in fear at the prospect of it. But the three course steak dinner is perfect. My teeth are savouring every flesh ripping moment. " Calling all vegans. You are mad to be choosing a lettuce instead of this ! "
27th March. Bugger it. Bugger this weather. I hire a mountain bike and head for the hills without a map. Splashing through the wilderness. I don't care, it's huge fun. I catch up with Wes from Ipswich and Lisa from Dublin. Together we catch up a larger group of equally mud-spattered Chinese cyclists. Then, In a small rural hamlet with stone and earth walls and buffalo in sheds, we are all invited to eat lunch at the riverside. The owner of the establishment catches fish for us and steams rice and vegetables. Marvellous home cooking. A very peaceful and pretty spot to enjoy it. We cycle back to base along the hard road and I arrange to meet up again with my comrades at the 'Mei Yu' ( no have ) café. Their motto is that they 'no have' warm beer. They 'no have' bad food. I get chatting to the waitress who by a little quirk of coincidence calls herself Snow. She lives here. She knows the area. She speaks the language. She 'no have' plans tomorrow and I therefore appoint her 'bicycle tour guide'. Way better than any map. Way to go.
Next ; Moon Hill
