Climbing the wall
Trip Start
Jan 24, 2004
1
17
31
Trip End
Apr 01, 2004
Loading Map
Beijing,
China
Saturday, February 28, 2004
28th February 2004
Its a cramped mini bus ride out to the Simatai section of the Great Wall. About 120 kms north of Beijing , this section presents a greater challenge than the tourist circus ordinarily thrust upon newcomers. Simatai offers me a wall in a more natural state rather than 'expertly refurbished'. It is one of the few sections to retain features dating back to the Ming Dynasty. 5.5km long with 35 beacon towers. In some sections, each brick is date stamped . The original construction pre-dates what we see today and actually began in about 550 AD.
Once we reach the start there is a reservoir to walk around and then the climbing begins . Sure enough , there are a number of 'guides' laying in wait for the small group of us. But I knew of their presence well in advance, not that it helps. They can be very persistent and will tag along whether you invite them or not. Old ladies, well over one hundred years old judging from the wrinkles on their faces. Yet, for me at least, it was impossible to out-pace them ! Like this, they wear you down until you end up buying something just to get rid of them .
I cover 12 sections of undulating steps between watch-towers . The incredible views stretching beyond my imagination. There are a total of 15 towers on this Eastern section of the wall but due to their precipitous position on edges of cliffs, some are closed to the public for safety reasons. It is frightful . Well documented is the ' sky bridge' - traversing a section of wall no greater than 40cm wide between huge brick beacons . Sheer drops either side, into a valley 1,000 meters below. Brave enough ? Consider its purpose - to repel invaders. I am quite breathless with fear and wonderment at the same time. Upon reaching the spot beyond which it is not permitted to go, there is a guard sat there to emphasise the point. The wall here becomes very loose and unstable . So unfortunately I don't get to soil my trousers on the sky bridge after all.
After returning to Beijing, I really am in the mood for a nice cup of tea. I have developed a keen taste for jasmine. When buying quality tea in China you are invited to sample many varieties . Learning an elaborate process of infusing it, nurturing it and pouring it correctly using a series of small porcelain bowls. Rare to see such refinement these days in China, it's a case of knowing where to look.
Next ; How do you say " Xian"
