TURKEY TOURISM(pamukkale-canakkale-kapadokya)

  Canakkale, Turkey
Monday, August 31, 2009

PAMUKKALE:Pamukkale and Hierapolis

75km (47 miles) northeast of Denizli airport, 25km (16 miles) northeast of Denizli; 652km (404 miles) south of Istanbul; 231km (143 miles) southeast of Izmir; 300km (186 miles) northeast of Bodrum.

Until a few years ago, the cliff-side travertines that had become the poster child of Pamukkale were more like a slushy roadside pile of yesterday's snow. The terraces are the result of thousands of years of deposits left by calcium-rich natural springs coursing down the mountain. (In nearby Karahayit, springs rich in iron and sulfur leave reddish metallic deposits at the point of exit.) But years of irresponsible tourism had turned this wonder of nature into a dismal theme park attraction, until finally, in desperation, the Turkish authorities called in UNESCO for backup. In an ever-evolving geological environment, it's normal that these natural springs would find new outlets, and part of UNESCO's efforts have been to divert the springs to different sections on a rotating basis to restore much-needed calcium to the upper layers of the travertines. In the 6 years since their efforts began, much of the site has been restored to its original blinding whiteness. The travertine terraces, in concert with the plateau housing the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis, now make up a national park as well as a World Heritage Site, and a visit to one would not be complete without a look at the other.

Although the cloudy white mountainside continues to act as a magnet for thousands and thousands of tourists on day excursions, the only way to really appreciate the region is to spend an afternoon basting in the local mineral-rich waters. This is a spa town, after all. For now, tourists can swim in the Sacred Pool within the courtyard of the former Pamukkale Thermal or in one of the more deluxe facilities in nearby Karahayit. The village of Karahayit has its own modest terraces (more like mounds), and the water over on that side of the plateau is at least 55°F (about 13°C) warmer than the pools of Pamukkale (except for the Colossae Hotel, which takes its source from Pamukkale). The best time to go is after the tour-bus season, during the crisp but gorgeously sunny days of fall, when you can still take advantage of some of the outdoor thermal pools without the unwanted company.ATTRACTIONS:The majority of excursions to Pamukkale can be characterized by 8 hours on a bus, split in half by a quick photo op of the travertines, an hour of free time in the Sacred Pool, and lunch at some tourist buffet. With an itinerary like this, don't be surprised if you come away disappointed; an overnight in an inexpensive thermal hotel spa with a Jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath, and massage therapy seems to me the minimum requirements in a place known for millennia as a place of healing. Not only just what the doctor ordered, but it's also essential to factor in a morning stroll through the local village and a relaxed visit to the ancient ruins of Hierapolis after the sun has lost most of its bite.

A swim in the effervescent waters of the Sacred Pool should be at the top of the list on any travel itinerary, but it will be eminently more enjoyable very early in the morning or during a fringe season, when the tour buses have trickled out. The Sacred Pool is the main source for the springs feeding the travertines, and naturally, some clever entrepreneur took advantage of lax governmental controls and erected a motel on the spot, of those many years ago. The Pamukkale Thermal, the last modern structure on the plateau, has been decommissioned from a hotel, and is now essentially a historic swim club, saved from the same fate that saw the other motels razed thanks to the Sacred Pool within. The pool lies in the center of a lush garden and cay evi (teahouse). Scattered about at the bottom of the crystal-clear pool like so much detritus is an amazing collection of striated columns and capitals, a striking reminder of the pool's pedigree.

The thermal water maintains a relatively constant temperature of about 95°F (35°C), so that a dip in the middle of November is not out of the question. In addition to a high level of natural radioactivity, the water contains calcium bicarbonate, calcium sulfate, magnesium, and carbon dioxide, and after a swim, you should simply dry off and let the minerals do their magic.

The Pamukkale Thermal (tel. 0258/272-2024; admission 8YTL ($6) is open from 8am to 8pm daily (until 5pm in the winter) and provides basic changing rooms, but don't forget a towel.

So as not to forget that 2,000 years ago emperors and kings weekended here, the impressive remains of the ancient city-spa of Hierapolis (admission 3.60YTL/$2.70) lie all around. The city of Hierapolis was founded in 190 B.C. by Eumenes II as part of the great Empire of Pergamum and was probably named after Hiera, the wife of the legendary founder of Pergamum. Considered a sacred site for the magic of its healing waters, Hierapolis reached its peak of development under the Romans at the end of the 2nd and 3rd centuries. During the Byzantine Era, a large church was erected to St. Philip, who was martyred here in A.D. 80.

Behind the Pamukkale Thermal are the stunning remains of the best-preserved ancient theater in Turkey, and the third-most-impressive theater after Ephesus and Aspendos. The theater was constructed in the middle of the 2nd century by Hadrian and adapted in the 3rd century by Septimius Severus, indicating the importance of the city during both Hellenistic and Roman times. The upper section of 25 rows, added during the restoration, is constructed of stones quarried from the ancient theater to the north of the city rather than of marble, suggesting that the city hit upon financial hardships during this era. Notice the skeleton of the mechanism below the well-preserved stage. The theater comes to life in the late spring for folklore performances during the Festival of Pamukkale.

Just down the hill are the scattered leftovers of the Temple of Apollo, patron of the city. If you descend the incline just inside the fence and circle to the other side of the temple's stairs, you can see the Plutonium, a niche believed to be sacred for the noxious carbon monoxide vapors that are emitted from a nearby underground stream. Accessible via a (closed) passageway through the temple, the temple priests were the only ones with the power (or lung capacity) to emerge alive, a thesis supported by the deaths of not just a few imprudent tourists.

A pretty good hike up the hill will lead you to the Martyrium of St. Philip, the remains of an octagonal basilica believed to have been erected on the site where Philip was martyred.

From the Martyrium you can cut down the hill toward the Byzantine Gate and the Colonnaded Street. Crossing the city on a north-south axis for .8km ( 1/2 mile), in ancient times the street ran from the Southern Gate and ended at the monumental Arch of Domitian, a triple arch flanked by two robust cylindrical towers constructed by Julius Frontinus, the Proconsul of the Asian Provinces between A.D. 84 and 86. To the right of the gate are the pillars of the latrine, not as graphic as the toilets at Ephesus, but interesting from an architectural point of view nevertheless.

Beyond the Arch of Domitian is the Necropolis, stretching for over 1.5km (1 mile) and ending at the northern entrance to the site. Although people traveled from all over the empire to heal their ills, it's painfully obvious from this extensive burial ground that some diseases just can't be treated by a warm bath. There are various types of sarcophagi, layers of mausoleums designed as houses for the dead, and remarkable examples of the stone cylindrical drum tumuli employed during Hellenistic times. Don't pass this up just because it's too hot.

On the paved road heading back to the southern entrance, notice the crumbling but imposing Roman bath, built around the end of the 2nd century and later converted into a Byzantine basilica. From the looks of several of the archways, one more earthquake and this structure is road dust.

Next to the parking lot of the Pamukkale Thermal are a 6th-century Christian basilica and more Roman baths (this one for the rich folk). Dating to the 1st century, the baths were constructed in the rebuilding of the city during the reign of Tiberius after a major earthquake severely damaged the city. Now a museum, the baths house artifacts from the area, including a fairly impressive marble sarcophagus, but for the most part, you can skip the exhibit and admire the baths from the outside.
ÇANAKKALE:

The small port of Çanakkale was of major strategic importance during World War I; at its narrowest point, it guards the entire straits of the Dardanelles. A constant reminder of its role in the war is the memorial carved into the cliff side on the opposite shore, which is visible from just about everywhere in town: “O Passer-by: The quiet earth on which you tread unaware is the place where a generation was lost. Bow and listen, for this ground is where the heart of a nation throbs.” But the Great War was not the only major battle to happen in these environs. The ancient city of Troy, located just over 9 miles from here, fell several times in defense of this strategic spot.

Today Çanakkale is a quiet fishing town and tourist center, and the attractions are a mere footnote to both battlegrounds, where the action really happened.

Attractions

The Army Museum houses various types of war paraphernalia such as uniforms, medals, and weapons, but unless you’re a war geek, the most interesting part of the exhibit is just inside the main entrance. There’s a model of the Gallipoli Campaign, above which are various plaques in English with attention-grabbing anecdotes and quotes of the various battleground memorials. One recounts the story of how on August 10, 1915, Atatürk received a direct hit to the heart, but a pocket watch that he was carrying shielded him from the bullet and certain death. Other sources say it was shrapnel from the doomed 57th Regiment battle, while still others say the whole story is a load of crap. According to the debatable inscription in this museum, the shattered watch is now part of Army Commander General Limon von Sander’s family collection.

Next to the Naval Museum is a replica of the Nusrat, the minelayer that gets the credit for saving the day against invading British warships during the sea offensive. After the war, the underappreciated Nusrat was used as a lowly freight carrier and finally capsized in April 1990. Inside the ship is a minor exhibit of newspaper clippings with apparently significant headlines in huge block Turkish letters, as well as some diary entries and other forgettable items.

Çimenlik Castle, along with the Kilitbahir Castle on the opposite banks of the straits, was constructed by Mehmet II (the Conqueror) in the 15th century as a strategic prelude to his assault on Constantinople.

The castle grounds are full of old cannons from the battles, and if you venture into one of those dark passages, you can get a glimpse of the Turkish positions, not to mention the sections of the roof that were destroyed by incoming artillery.

The park occupies a waterfront section that juts out into the sea and from which you get some of the best views in town, so if war yarns leave you cold, the grounds provide at least a pleasant diversion.

KAPADOKYA:

Cappadocia and the Interior


A stark lunar landscape. A mysterious open-air sculpture carved by Mother Nature’s chisel. These common descriptions of Cappadocia really just tap dance around the subject. So let’s just get this out of the way: Those fascinating “fairy chimneys” evoke nothing so much as anatomically correct erections — and circumcised ones at that. Imagine what a field day American film censors would have had if George Lucas had succeeded in his original plan to shoot Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace in Cappadocia.

Nobody knows who the original inhabitants of the region were, or who first hollowed out shelters in the soft rock of these sheltered ravines and odd “chimneys.” But as a largely barren and desolate area, central Cappadocia was bypassed by most expansionist armies, making it a perfect refuge for the early Christians following in the footsteps of St. Paul, who established the first Christian colonies here.

The natural land formations and huge expanses of silence are just a part of the mystery of the region. As an incubator for Christian philosophy, the monasteries, cave dwellings, and feats of underground engineering are a testament to human ingenuity. Cliff walls of the valleys are riddled with innocuous-looking cavities that on closer inspection turn out to be centuries-old dwellings or chapels decorated with colorful frescoes and biblical images.

Cappadocian soil is extremely fertile, and a general tour of the region will reveal numerous vineyards in and around the valleys. Famous for its local wines, Cappadocia is a major producer; you may want to veer off at a sign for Sarap Evi (wine house) for a leisurely tasting. The creatively named Sarap Evi, in Ürgüp, has wine tastings in the evenings, but it’s just as fun to drive up to any local producer and fall into the dance of local hospitality.

Natural Happenings

The erosion that carves out this fascinating topography began over 60 million years ago and can be seen in various stages even today. As the devastating 1999 earthquakes illustrated, Turkey is caught between the insistent pressure exerted from the Asian and European continental plates. The Erciyes Mountain, Melendiz Mountain, and Hasandag — all dormant or extinct volcanoes — are the result of underground forces that thrust these landmasses above water level eons ago. Recurrent volcanic eruptions blanketed the area with boulders, ash, and lava, over time creating layers of sediment, with the underneath layers more solid than the newer, softer levels of sediment.

The formation of the fairy chimneys is just an example of wind and water erosion in an extreme state. The early stages of erosion are visible in the graceful channels and dunes of the valleys. But as the elements carve away at the channels, the mass of tufa splits from its supports and forms pillars or pyramids. And without the protection of those basalt boulders caught in the balance of gravity and time, the pillars slowly whittle down to nothing, and the crowning boulder comes crashing to the ground. The precarious nature of the tufa has earned Cappadocia a place on UNESCO’s list of Natural World Heritage Properties so that it receives aid for restoration and preservation of its unique environment.Attractions:In antiquity, Cappadocia included all of central Anatolia, stretching as far as Ankara in the north and Adana in the south. Today the region includes the area in and around a small triangle formed by Ürgüp, Avanos, and Nevsehir, where the canyons are the deepest and the pigments in the rock-cut churches are the richest.

If your time is limited, it’s possible to visit the major sites of the area in 2 full days with either your own car or the assistance of a local tour operator. Doubtless, you’ll wish you had stayed longer. Tours can be either tailor-made, and therefore more pricey, or selected from a stable of standard issues.

Typical day tours include:
1) a visit to the Open Air Museums of Zelve and Göreme, overviews of the valleys from Pasabag and Dervent, a climb up to the top of Üçhisar Fortress, and an optional pottery demonstration in Avanos, and
2) visits to the underground cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu and a leisurely 4km (2 1/2-mile) hike through the monastery-rich gorge of Ihlara Valley.

Tours may also include horseback riding; more challenging sports such as mountain biking can be easily arranged, but these are generally not advertised.

Operating with the most experience in the region is Argeus, Istiklal Cad. 13, Ürgüp (tel. 0384/341-4688; fax 0384/341-4888; www.argeus.com.tr), which provides expert guidance on Cappadocia and Ankara, as well as destinations throughout Turkey. Regular group tours, including all museum entrance fees and lunch in a restaurant, cost 131YTL ($95) per person for groups of six or more; private tours cost 300TYL ($220) and get cheaper the more people you have. Argeus is also the local representative of Turkish Airlines.

For a more off-the-beaten track experience, contact Cappadocia Tours, Istiklal Cad. 19/9, Ürgüp (tel. 0384/341-7485; www.cappadociatours.com), which is the companion agency to Gamirasu Hotel. Led by Süleyman Çakir, tours and hotel stays will be assured the highest of quality; think visits to local village events and historical hikes lead by Süleyman or a professional archaeologist. Expect to pay 216YTL ($160) per day for between 2 and 10 passengers including the guide and driver. For an additional 34YTL ($25) per person, all entrance fees will be included (these do add up), as well as vehicle expenses and an a la carte lunch, including wine….Gencturk…