7th May 2000 Rome
Trip Start
Apr 27, 2000
1
11
81
Trip End
Aug 09, 2000
Rome,
Italy
Thursday, February 27, 2003
Up early with a big day planned. I went around the corner to buy milk and juice, and found a bar open. Stepped up to the bar with the locals, and had a cappuccino. Back in the room Ches had some pan fried bread and the juice (carrot, orange and lemon), while I continue to have Weetabix for breakfast. Off to the Pantheon on foot, a good one and a half kilometres across town. The limited metro doesn't really service much of the tourist area. We approached the Pantheon from behind, and because various Pope's stripped the marble and bronze for their own building project (a story that seems to apply to just about all of ancient Rome), it appears as a rather ragged, albeit huge building, of small clay bricks and stone. It's only when you arrive at the front of the building that you appreciate the magnificence and geometry of the design. The immense marble pillars at the entrance are spectacular. Inside we were struck by the enormous domed ceiling, now plain cement (a major building material in Roman times), again because the Pope's stripped it. The walls however are stunning, as is the floor-all varieties and colours in marble. We just sat for threequarters of an hour and drank in the atmosphere. Tried to imagine it in its original form, including all the statuary in honour of all the gods worshiped in pre-Christian times-it being built in 80 something BC and the oldest building still standing and in use in Rome. All the statues were removed and replaced by Christian statues and tombs, from the middle ages when it became a church, as it still is today.
On leaving, we witnessed another fine performance from a beggar who attended the same academy as the beggar in Rapallo. I'm not being uncharitable, the costume and choreography are identical. As it was now approaching 12.30, and all the churches close from 12.30 to 3.30, we headed across to the Trevi Fountain. We decided to while away the three hours at the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, and Piazza Navona. Didn't realise until now as I write, that that little stroll was three kilometres. It was a beautiful sunny day, perfect to sit on a bench at the fountain. We had a Porchetta (roast pork roll) and a gelato, filmed and photographed. Having watched almost everyone else toss a coin over their shoulder into the fountain, I suggested that Ches throw three coins over her shoulder, obliquely, lest she take out someone's eye with a coin. Very funny. Ten minutes later, time to pose the filming. Ches stepped up, turned her back and flung a coin over her shoulder. Hit a woman in the head, on the bottom path. An English tourist along side me kept laughing and insisting it was a candidate for "You've Been Framed" (Funniest Home Videos???). Ches retrieved the coin, and was more successful with the next three. The PakIndians really start to drive you nuts at places like the Trevi Fountain. They are in your face constantly, and I mean like every 30 seconds, with junk for sale. Plasticine like faces, that can be shaped, plastic meccano balls-JUNK!. They are even worse when it rains. Somehow, within 30 seconds of the first rain drops, there are dozens of them on the street selling cheap umbrellas. They walk around with a bag of them over their shoulder, an open umbrella in one hand and a dozen hanging off their other hand. Always get right into your face and push them at you. I figure that have a local store at each of the major tourist locations. When it's fine they push the junk, as soon as it spits, they dash in and load up with umbrellas. They sell for 10,000 lira, and I've seen the same on sale in regular shops for 5,000 lira. Apart from the PakIndians, loved the atmosphere of the Trevi Fountain-wonderful statues and splashing water on a hot day with a clear blue sky-magic. The Spanish Steps was a similar experience. The fountain at the foot of the steps attracted many people for a drink, and the usual crowds sitting on the steps. Filmed and photographed Ches walking the steps, which were still in fairly good bloom (the traditional purple azaleas). Almost had to drag Ches down the Via del Condoti, as she wanted to window-shop all the designer label stores that line this street. Thank god they all close until 3.30 as well. Many of these streets are closed to road traffic (other than taxis) on weekends, particularly Sundays. This accommodates the huge crowds, as the Romans and other Italians who weekend in Rome swell the usual tourist crowds.
We trekked across to Piazza Navonna. Now, having read so much about how this was the smartest Piazza in Rome; the most exclusive, the haunt of the wealthy, I had kind of expected Double Bay on steroids. You know, large open plaza, glistening white and clean marble, immaculately groomed lawns and gardens, the social hub of the elite, that sort of thing. Now don't get me wrong (again), it is vibrant, exciting and grand, but it's also grubby. The facade of the buildings are what is common to most of Rome; weathered, in various stages of decay and everything that lends itself to creating atmosphere. But the pavements are littered, and just plain dirty. The restaurants, bars and bistros are smart and immaculately clean. The contrast is dramatic, and probably deliberately so. The service is what we are becoming used to; fairly surly or more likely, condescending. After all, they live in the most exciting city in the world, and we are just drop-ins. We have to be served, but they don't have to really care weather we are happy or not. Take it or leave it. Drives the Americans nuts. We took a ringside seat at a cafe/restaurant/bar and took our time over a beer (8,000 lira and they don't even fill the glass to within 4 cm of the top), and a bottle of mineral water (5,000 lira). British couple (woman and aged father or older husband, sat at the table next to us and were having a tiff, when along comes a couple who know her from back home in England. What a surprise seeing you here. Amazing British conversation, very proper, very chatty with all the cliched expressions and phrases. Amazing daughter you know, travelled right through the middle east and all the Islamic countries, eventually reaching China, always stayed with people she met along the way-Christmas with an Arab families brother who runs a desert tourist operation and takes the Christmas break because he has no customers, being Christmas-amazing for a girl you know! When they leave, she explains that they are awfully wealthy, very devout Catholics with five children, one studying for the priesthood-that's why they are in Rome, and she is a major worker for "Life" a catholic organisation that encourages pregnant girls not to have abortions. Top teeth jut so far forward over the bottom teeth that it allows for very proper speech.
10th May 2000, 5.30 pm
Watched a finger puppet street performer at the bottom of the Piazza. He had a huge crowd. 20 meters away, a juggler started his performance. After five minutes of performing to an audience on nil, he gave up, and walked over to join the crowd around the puppeteer. Time to visit some more Churches. Also time for the weather to turn. Drizzly. Couldn't find Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, described as being hidden in the courtyard of Palazzo della Sapienza. Too well hidden. San Luigi dei Francesi was the highlight of the day with the three large "St Matthew" paintings by Caravagio . Wonderfully different to all other church paintings. We note that many churches don't charge for admission, but they don't provide any permanent lighting for you to see the art. You have to put a coin in a meter, which gives about 30 seconds of spotlight to the individual alcove. Often there are dozens of alcoves, and lights are flashing on and off all around the church. Couldn't find Sant'Agostino either-so we missed another Caravagio (we managed to find it later in the week). The tourist guides aren't the best for finding some of these churches in narrow back alleys. We may try and find this church on Thursday night when we will be having dinner at Il Pallaro nearby. It stays open till 7.30, so we will have time to find it before trying to find this restaurant at Largo Del Pallaro. The restaurant is recommended by Christina (the owner of our pensione), who says they don't advertise at all, because they don't have to. Only frequented by Romans, no menu; just a fixed price, and they serve whatever they have decided for the day. Christina say, "cooking just like my mummas'".
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva was worth it for the simple vaulted nave. It is one of the few Gothic buildings in Rome, and the nave is such a contrast to the austere, plain exterior. Out front in the square is a Bernini sculpture of an Egyptian obelisk standing on the back of an elephant. The facade is plain white stone, very square, with just the front door and three round stained glass windows set in this blank wall. Inside is a nave of gilt and bright blue patterns, and the stained glass windows which aren't particularly impressing from the outside, suddenly have light behind them, and the colours are fantastic.
Finished the day at Sant'Ignazio di Loyola, with its fabulous Baroque illusionist ceiling. Well, not quite finished. We had a very long walk back to our hotel, stopping off at the only supermercato we could find-at Stazione Termini. The major purchase was a stove top espresso maker and some Lavaza coffee. Also bought all the basics, including glasses, as we can't find any coffee cups, so we now make Latte in glasses. Also had dinner to prepare. Steamed Asparagus with cracked pepper, olive oil and Grand Padano. Pasta with Pancetta, Mushroom, Garlic,Tomatoes and Grand Padano. Again washed down with Valpolicella.
Really did sleep the sleep of the just (or exhausted).
