5th May 2000 Rapallo and Portofino
Trip Start
Apr 27, 2000
1
9
81
Trip End
Aug 09, 2000
Rapallo,
Italy
Sunday, February 16, 2003
Breakfasted on rolls, croissants, and jam for the 8th day in a row, and headed for the dock. (not forgetting my failed attempt to get a map from the Automobile Club-but being given a magnificent travel guide in Italian, and Cheryl determined to have three rolls of film developed). The trip to Portofino is a half-hour, with a brief stop at Santa Margurita. A boat the size of a Manly catamaran, with an entirely open top deck. Not too many people on board for the first leg to Santa Margurita, which was really just around the next headland. A town of about the same size, but an even bigger marina, and much larger boats. Loaded up with school children (again-they seem to be everywhere and Ches thinks they have the best school excursions in the world). Portofino is again just around the next headland, and it turns out you can see Rapallo quite easily from Portofino, its just that it is tucked between two headlands, one which is the end of the peninsular, and the other which runs off at an angle so as to form a longish narrow harbour, a little similar to Polpero. Most of the yachts, and they are huge expensive racing boats, are out competing in an international regatta (Merril Lynch as the main sponsors have a small manque set up on the boat ramp). Boats from France, Italy, Norway and Germany were in evidence, racing off the peninsular. Just outside the entrance to the inner harbour, high up on the hill, is the hotel we saw reviewed on an American travel show on Discovery channel. Looks a little isolated, I had thought it had views of the harbour itself-deceptive programming! A horseshoe inner harbour, flanked by a promenade, and a row of restaurants and clothing shops-all super expensive, and the buildings are all weather beaten and crumbling and faded facades-that fantastic rustic look you come to expect in Italy. The valley behind is very narrow, and several lanes run back with more clothing and art shops, to a turning circle and parking area, reserved for locals cars only.
Tuesday 8th May 2000 Just returned from a day walking the Colosseum, Palatine and Forum, collapsed with a Stella Artois.
We walked halfway up the headland at the end of the peninsular, as far as a church with the most amazing cemetery. Actually, it's no longer amazing, as we are becoming familiar with these cemeteries that consist of a few elaborate marble mausoleums, and high walls of crypts with photographs of the deceased in frames, and brightly coloured plastic flowers. Finished off our visit with a gelato (Ches had Pistachio and I had Crema)-our first, and hopefully a daily ritual for our 90 something days in Italy. Lots of school kids on our return journey. Just outside Portofino, a cruise ship had dropped anchor, and passengers were being ferried ashore in small boats. Meanwhile the racing in very light airs was continuing, but I can't say I saw a lot of frantic activity. I think it's just an excuse to cruise around off shore.
On our return, I sat on a bench on the promenaded for about an hour (along with dozens of others). Here I witnessed the first, of what I am now coming to believe are a troop, of women beggars. I'm sure they belong to "Actors Equity". The dress and routine are almost identical. Skirt down to the ground, coloured socks and sandals, cardigan and a shawl. The shawl wrapped over the head and across the mouth, but dropped from the mouth to reveal missing teeth when actually begging. A cane is obligatory, as is a nodding/shaking head and a stooped, laboured walk. I've seen the same routine since-primarily here in Rome, particularly out the front of churches. Cheryl feels convinced enough, that she suggests that we should at least put a donation in the churches charity box. My problem is that I know how well the Italian welfare system works, and the routine is just too well choreographed. The women out front of the Pantheon was lying prostrate, with her shawl over her head. When an official touched her on the shoulder to move her along, her reaction was not that of someone with an affliction-but that's also another story that I haven't come to yet.
Ches bought some fresh tomatoes and other deli food, which we had for tea in our room before an early night in preparation for the drive into Rome on Saturday.
