Deep in the Amazon
Trip Start
Apr 05, 2008
1
100
102
Trip End
Mar 20, 2009
Mamiraua Reserve,
State of Amazonas,
Brazil
Monday, January 12, 2009
Posada Uacari is a floating eco-lodge in the Mamiraua reserve in the Amazon. Reached by boat an hour and a half from the town of Tefe it's in a beautiful setting. On our arrival the trees were filled with Egrets and the waters teeming with Caimans. It wasn't the active adventure I had been anticipating so it took me a couple of days to relax and be able to enjoy all the hammock time. GT took to his hammock like a duck to water and had no problems with the laid back lifestyle we would enjoy over the following 7 days.
Our daily routine consisted of a morning activity starting at 7am, usually a hike more accurately described as a confidence course. Due to the rains the water levels are rising and so the paths were muddy and in some parts were flooded so we were walking along fallen trees at points to avoid the mini lagoons. The mossies were fierce and as Finbar was a diabetic they loved everything about him which helped distract them from us. One of the mornings we visited a local community to learn about how they live in the Amazon and how the lodge helps to provide work and income as well as teaching them about preserving their land and using all the natural resources wisely (I.e. not eating all the monkeys, turtles and selling all the caimans skins).
Heliconias
We then had around an hour to shower and relax before lunch, followed by a long siesta. During the heat of the day the animals all hibernate so there's no much happening till after 3.30pm. The afternoons we either enjoyed canoeing down the river which is so peaceful it's an ideal way to enjoy and spot wildlife - except when it's raining and it seemed to like down pouring a lot in the late afternoons. Otherwise we went out in the motor boat searching for wildlife or to visit the lake and return late spot lighting. The spotlighting was great fun. The Caimans eyes in the spot light were like city lights as there were so many in the water, all glowing a bright menacing orange. We also came so close to the Caimans that as they rolled away they set the boat rocking. That and with fish jumping in our boat it kept us all alert. We visited a couple of research stations; firstly the Boto research centre, the study of Pink Dolphins, which was a highlight. The Pink Dolphins are not like your usual marine dolphins as their nose is longer and their dorsal is almost flat. Their natural colour is gray but due to fighting their scars produce pink tissue giving them their pink colour (they fight a lot). It was amazing seeing them in the wild. The other research station we visited and got to see in action was for Ornamental fish, where we learnt how these are monitored and caught, to be sold mostly to the European markets for loads of cash. I also provided entertainment for the group whilst we were looking at an electric eel in one of the tanks.
Uakari Floating Lodge
The eel seemed to suddenly light up and I made the comment 'wow it's flashing with electricity', when in reality someone had just taken a photo using their flash. I don't think there will be any job offers at the Ornamental fish station coming my way anytime soon!As Gareth and I were staying for 7 nights we had the additional option to stay in the tree house in the jungle. The lodge firstly gives guests the opportunity to see the tree house to see if it's something they actually want to experience. It's about a 10 minute walk into the jungle crossing the river by boat from the lodge. It's a wooden hut raised high above the ground on stilts where you sleep in hammocks, with only screens to keep the bugs out and the jungle noise to lull you to sleep. Up for a new experience we set out for a night in the jungle. After saying goodnight to our guide and settling in with candles my visions of our Tarzan and Jane evening in the jungle were quickly foiled as the guide started hooking up a hammock for himself. There would be no monkey business in the jungle tonight with our in house babysitter to keep a close watch on us. Falling swiftly asleep I awoke around midnight needing of course to pee. I'm sure if the tree house had had it's very own bathroom instead of a monkey tree then I wouldn't have needed to go! I finally worked up the courage to scramble down the tree house in the dark, braving spiders, caimans and goodness knows what else (the mossies got me on the bum), I made it back to my hammock safely.
amazon
A few minutes later once I was safely back in my hammock, I noticed a snake. I woke GT up so we could watch this snake slither up our window screen, fortunately on the outside. The head looked tiny so we assumed it was a small harmless snake. It soon revealed itself in full with a thick long body and looked anything but harmless. I started to panic as it tried to squeeze itself in the door through a gape at the top and it was at this point that my fretting awoke our guide. I was now thankful that he was there as Tarzan wasn't looking like he was going to do much protecting. The guide looked as panicked as I felt and soon explained that it was a venomous Cobra. Well that put any hopes of sleep for me out the window, although I needn't of worried as the guide did half hourly spotlight checks of the entire tree house to make sure he knew where the snake and her hubby were at all times. Yes not only one snake but two, Mr. & Mrs. Cobra. Mr. Cobra was even larger but remained pretty inactive, coiled up in the roof rafters. I was happy to be rolling up our hammocks and heading for the lodge as the sun rose although slightly unnerved that both snakes had slithered away before the sun had risen. GT had a good nights sleep, while the guide looked as wrecked as I felt. Sleepless night aside and with enough adrenalin pumping through me to have run a marathon, it was an amazing experience. The jungle is so alive at night with the sounds of frogs, crickets, caimans splashing and other insects but the best were the fireflies who were beautiful and calming to watch.
Caiman
Plus the air seemed cooler, possibly partly due to the heavy rain that leaked through the roof, although only on the spot where I was sleeping directly onto my head.We had a great team of staff at the lodge, namely our English speaking guide George, who was as gay as Christmas and so much fun. I couldn't stop singing George, George George of the Jungle.... every time I heard his name and surprisingly he knew the words too so maybe I'm not the first slightly crazy guest to do this. Also the other guests at the lodge were superb. Finbar from Cork, Ireland, who seemingly has been there and done it all; from picking strawberries in Denmark, oranges in Seville, to working with Refugees in Rwanda and apparently came close to joining the circus in France, he was not only fascinating to listen to but a load of fun. Florence from Paris, whom has now given us more of an excuse to hop on the Eurostar to Paris to visit. John & Eric (USA) the two IT geeks (only professionally) who got on like a house on fire with everyone and are single and keen to visit NZ - we informed them about the man shortage ;-). Elizabeth and her daughter Isobel, from Rio, who not only set us straight about how to make a good Caipirinha with the right Cachaca (the local spirit made from sugar cane), but also told us about a slice of beach paradise, Paraty, which is now on our must visit while in Brazil. Our Piranha fishing buddies, Shayna and Jim, from the USA, where the girls kicked ass in the fishing competition, much to the boys disappointment. And finally Alfonzo (Spain) and Leade (Israel) who were apparently on their unofficial honeymoon with the wedding yet to happen - bizarre.
Amazon Piranha fishing score: Alanna 5: GT 3
