Torres del Paine - Tour of Pain or Do It Again?
Trip Start
Apr 05, 2008
1
91
102
Trip End
Mar 20, 2009
Loading Map
Torres del Paine,
Patagonia,
Chile
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Glacier Serrano
After finding a secluded site we set up camp and Adam rustled up some pasta whilst GT and I went in search of some beers. A warm sunny evening with only a light wind was a perfect end to our first day. Followed by learning how to play the card game 'Shithead', I was pleased to say I went to bed 'Shithead' free, whilst Kate, Adam and GT were double shitheads!Our first real day of hiking and it was a relaxed start. We set out light with only day packs to the view point of Glacier Grey. A steady 2 hour hike armed with water and trail mix. Water was unnecessary as another traveler clearly demonstrated as he hiked solely with a cup - the water in the streams is so pure it tastes incredible. They say the water here is the best in the world. Reaching Glacier Grey was a sight to behold and worth the trek. Layers of ice piled high meeting the lake below was well worth the hike. We sat and drank in this incredible sight before the cold set in and we needed to get moving again back down to camp. After an exciting lunch of 3 minute noodles, we packed up camp and set out for our next campsite, Campamento Italiano. Unfortunately the showers at Lago Pehoe were glacial cold so we opted to wait until the next Refugio in 2 nights time. Two and a half hours later we reached Campamento Italiano set in under pines and unfortunately for us in the wet drizzle. Quickly losing my sense of humour we found a campsite and set up camp for the night enduring the dripping rain. Wet and cold we cooked up yet again noodles and called it a night early, being too cold and wet to be any fun at all.
Awaking to sunshine was a welcomed relief and meant our damp clothes and tent would dry out during the day.
Glacier Serrano 2
Ahead of us we had the renowned hike to Valle France, reputed to be one of the most spectacular parts of the 'W'. We hadn't factored in rock climbing as part of our trek but soon found ourselves scrambling up over rocks and boulders. It was a challenging climb and one that took longer than we had anticipated. The scenery was so spectacular it kept you going and wanting more. After 3.5 hours we finally reached the summit for Valle France and were surrounded by snow capped peaks. It was breathtaking and well worth the sweat. After basking in the sun and drying out we set out for the return hike meeting up again with Kate and Adam who unfortunately had taken a wrong turn and set out on a 'Barry' tour. We all set out down the ridge together, taking half the time to reach the top and glad to reach the campsite. After a very late lunch we packed up and set out for our next campsite, Los Cuernos.Reaching Los Cuernos in parts felt as if we were walking through someone's garden as the trail was so manicured and well planted. Until we reached the muddy, boulder down hill parts and then it was purely keeping sure footed and finding the driest path. After a morning of almost 7 hours of walking mixed with rock climbing it was a relief to reach the stone covered beach where we could drop our bags and rest for a bit soaking in the suns rays and enjoying the clear crisp waters of the lake. Adam and GT's inner child came out and a contest of rock skimming ensued - it was a tie. 30 minutes later we reached Los Cuernos, a refugio/campsite nestled on the lake front.
Glacier Serrano 3
As the weather was superb we opted for another night of camping, preferring 2 to a tent, rather than 8 to a dorm. Kate and my first priority was the hot showers so we left the boys to set up camp and ran with towels and soap in hand, wanting to feel semi human again. It's amazing how a hot shower and bottle of red wine can make you feel so alive. Admittedly we paid handsomely for the wine but in fairness we a). deserved it and b). saved money by camping instead of opting for a bed in the dorm ;-) I lost the game of Shithead that night!With summer sunshine on full beam and no wind we left the campsite just after 9am to achieve what was to be our most challenging day on the 'W' trail. Following the coast and by coast I mean lake we walked for 4.5hours before setting down for lunch. With the sun roasting us it was a sweat soaked morning but fortunately we had a good trail to follow with as many flat paths as there were ups. Cooling our feet in the streams we had to cross and filling our water bottles provided welcome relief to our blistering feet. After an hours lunch break enjoyed by a lake but sheltered from the wind which had picked up, we set out on the uphill slog. Supposed to take about 2 hours I was on a mission and reached Campamento Chileano in 1.20 hrs with the rest of the team only 20 minutes behind. We had all prepared ourselves mentally for a grinding up hill battle only to be pleasantly surprised. Rewarding ourselves with Fanta (and I bought a bottle of red for later celebrations in my pack - totally worth the extra kilo in weight) we enjoyed chilling out by the river preparing for the days final trek.
Becoming a familiar look
What felt like a never ending trail we finally reached the campsite 1.10 hrs later, relieved to have made it and drained by the days efforts. Finding a campsite was challenging and I can only feel sorry for those who have to do this in the height of summer as space was scarce. On yet another downhill slant for the night but the best site of what was available, we quickly set about cooking another meal of 3 minute noodles but cheered by the red wine to toast the days efforts. Our final day and what Torres del Paine is truly renowned for, the Three Towers. GT, Adam and I set out just after 4am with Kate wisely staying tucked up nice and cozy in her sleeping bag. It's important to note that this was Kate's first ever trek and having covered over 60km so far it was an incredible effort, especially given she still had a smile on her face. Besides, we needed someone to have a cup of tea waiting on our return ;-) With head torches on it was an hours scramble over rocks, streams and then boulders to reach the view point of the Three Towers. One foot in front of the other was the only way to achieve this and to ignore the burning lungs. Adam and I waited at the top for the clouds to clear to afford us the final view to top off our 5 day hike. After sometime I went in search of GT and with no man in sight I could only hope he had found the climb to severe and returned to camp in one piece. The views were the cherry on the top of our 'W' trek. Although not postcard perfect we still saw all three towers basked in burning red morning sunlight set off with the lake below.
Torres del Paine
Sadly GT had the camera so you'll have to take my word on the awe inspiring views which got the adrenalin pumping and took the breath away. Fortunately the scramble down was faster and not as death defying as had seemed going up and after a hearty breakfast (she jokes) of cup of soup, we broke camp and set out on the home run. Pausing back at Campamento Chileano for a brief respite we then tackled the final up hill slog to Hosteria Torres del Paine, where we knew a shuttle awaited. GT was wearing one of his many NZ shirts and was stopped by another kiwi to be filled in on the England v. AB rugby score, which made his day. 45minutes of thigh and butt burning trudging up hill (personal trainers seriously should stick their clients on a treadmill on an incline with a minimum of a 10kg pack for an hour), we soon reached the downhill relief leading to the finale of our trek. GT and I quickly broke out into a jog as it was easier on our knees and found ourselves nailing this home straight with ease, albeit with some strange looks from fellow trekkers we passed on our way down. After getting told off by some prat (who it's important to note needed a haircut) we slowed to a fast walk but by then were on the home plains. Following GT down the mountain was like following a dead, wet, dog - that's exactly how he smelt. How on earth does one rid the shoes of such a horrid stench - please let us know, days later we're still trying to figure it out! Waiting round for the 2.30pm bus was torture, all we wanted was a hot shower and to dump off our stinky laundry to some lady who was going to make her millions from us by charging an arm and leg for her services - well deserved too - did I mention the smell of dead, wet dog??? Finally getting back to Puerto Natales in a bus that was more like a sauna we staggered to Erratic Rock to return our over-priced rented equipment (it's worth shopping round), only to be told we had to erect our tent to show it was all okay - seriously what are we 16??? As I told them clearly it was in perfect order this morning when we took it down so I'm not sure what could have gone wrong with it in my bag.
Torres del Paine 2
The relief of a shower was huge and with our shoes safely outside of our room so as not to knock us out with noxious gases, we were relieved to be back. After 5 days GT was having gadget withdrawals and was quickly on the internet reading up on all the rugby reviews as well as downloading Jed's final rugby roundtable pod cast for the year. Laundry dropped off and finally enjoying a dinner of Patagonian Lamb (Dad, the bbq design for this will be coming your way soon), we enjoyed yet another fun relaxed evening with our 'Shithead' traveling companions, Adam and Katie, over red wine and beer. I've been told that the South Island of NZ is like Patagonia and if this is true I can't wait to experience it. This has been one of my highlights of our trip to date and an experience I'd encourage everyone to do. The 'W' means a 'Once in a lifetime experience of breathtaking beauty and unforgettable memories'. I can see now how easy it is to lose yourself in this amazing place, Patagonia. A duvet day and massage ensued to relieve our aching bodies and tired minds. Capped off with a final night out with Kate and Adam where we reluctantly parted ways in the early hours of the following morning. It's been an incredible traveling experience traveling with you both and we look forward to seeing you in 2009 in London for more beers, laughter and a never ending battle of 'Shithead'. Enjoy Fiji and NZ and expect the bucket list of NZ food to be coming your way soon!
Comments
Que hermoso lugar!
What an amezing trip are you doing!
Besos
Kena