Melbourne Hotels
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Artsy city with a complex
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After updating this log in Cowes on Phillips Island, I drove out of town on the way to Melbourne. As I driving past a small airport advertising helo flights around the island I spotted a red aircraft circling to land... nearly causing multiple accidents I took some pictures from the car... then decided what the hell I would turn around and see if I could get a ride. The disappointed helo pilots who thought they had another customer (no thanks I've flown in plenty of helos, if you call punishing the air with too many moving parts in unnatural ways 'flying') asked the pilot if I could get a ride, and he said 'no worries mate' and took me for a fifteen minute ride in an autogiro!!!
I've always wanted to fly in one (and they were around before helicopters) and turned out this was the only autogiro licensed for passengers in all of Victoria. They guy had 3 others, one of which was the fastest in the world. Despite the pilot being named Donnie (which automatically aroused suspicion- if you know the other Donnie I know you would understand) he was competent and knew what he was talking about. It was awesome! Autogiros fly be using a propellor for propulsion, but the lift is provided by rotating blades (like a helicopter) that spin just from the forward motion. If the propellor quits, it auto-rotates to the ground and can stop within it's own length. As you can see the autogiro if very small and lightweight- the ride was a bit bumpy but I was smiling the whole time and even better he didn't even charge me. I also shot some movies which give a good idea what it was like. So I've managed to fly in two things I've wanted to do for a long time!
Also at the airfield was the Australian Vietnam War Museum- they sent troops, helo support, and military advisers to Vietnam at the request of the US. Much like in our country the vets were not appreciated for what they were sent to do, and there were many protests against the war. It was a good museum and had one of the best intro displays I've seen in any museum anywhere- a collection of items with a projected character telling the background and referring to the items displayed- it was very well done. Australia has started to recognize the vets now much like in the States and they are getting the appropriate recognition.
I wouldn't say it split the country quite like that war did in the States but it was a big issue, much like today- recently Australia had elections, and the government that had supported the Iraq war lost and was replaced by the other party which has promised to withdraw from Iraq. They also recently ratified the Kyoto protocol and attended the current Bali summit on climate change (along with 'mr. inconvenient truth' Al Gore). OK enough rambling, I'm touching on one the three topics unsuitable for civilized company :)
I stayed in Melbourne for just two nights- I narrowed the sights recommended by Lonely Planet down and really wanted to see the Great Ocean Road. Melbourne is a funky city- very artsy, situated on a river near a huge bay, relatively easy to walk around. Driving was another matter- they have on-the-street trolleys around the town center, which make for some interesting traffic patterns (like making right turns from the left hand lane, I kid you not) and caused me to dread the sight of one near me while driving.
I have enough trouble staying on the left side. I started at the Shrine of Remembrance, a huge monument erected after WWI to honor the soldiers that served there, which were quite a few. From there strolled through the Botanical Gardens to the point where I could no longer stand the flies, and through some of the international art gallery. Through the downtown area to the Immigration Museum, then on to the Melbourne Goal, the former jail turned into a museum.
It had some great displays, and I commend the Aussies for not being afraid of displaying items which could offend but tell the truth, in this museum and others. They had death masks of hung prisoners, the true stories of their convictions, even when false, and the actual gallows used on display. I read about the hanging of Ned Kelly, an Aussie folk hero, who led a gang of cattle rustlers wearing unique homemade armor and since celebrated extensively here. This prison at one point held John Batman, one of Melbourne's founders! Pretty good stuff. On the the Chinese Australian Museum in Chinatown which has the longest dragon (the one used in street parades) in the world.
The next day planned to visit a few more places but ended up spending all day in the Melbourne Museum- it had a huge natural history collection which was fascinating. The variety of life in Australia alone, much less the world, is just overwhelming. There was an amazing display of recent finds from the deepest oceans, including the blob fish (check out a picture here: blogfishx.blogspot.com/2006/11/blobfish-bono-for-oceans.html - seriously do it)
and the giant squid, including one on display that washed up after a fight with a whale a few years ago. The evolution display had some amazing fossils of past life and a well done sequence of natural history. Amazing how the last 6,000 years, or even 60,000 years, is just a blink in geological time. It led to very detailed displays of human anatomy and the reproductive process (with suitable warnings for children, indeed everyone). Interesting to see, especially after my sister just went through all that having her first child. Again I was impressed by displays that I imagine would cause extensive controversy in the US.
I say Melbourne has a complex because after reading about the rivalry between Melbourne and Sydney it seemed very apparent to me that Melbourne was trying to really put forth every effort to prove itself equal or better.
I don't have much time in Sydney but the recently developed Federation Square in Melbourne seems to me the epitomy of that feeling- it is a grandly designed city block with funky architecture, modern displays, open spaces, edgy museums, all of interesting materials... but to me it just looks like they are trying too hard. Meanwhile the alleyways and naturally developed neighborhoods near the city itself were very cool, with a ton of various shops and people types, and plenty of parks around the city. I didn't ride the trolleys much but they add to the atmosphere. It also is close to much natural beauty in the bay itself, and along the coast to the west.
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