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The Victoria Coast
Entry 24 of 57 | show all | print this entry |
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The next day turned the corner of Australia's right butt check into the state of Victoria. The Shorline became quite a bit rockier and now bordered the Bass Strait between Tasmania (or Tassie as it's called) and the mainland. Most of the highway passed inland through cattle farms and pasture land, and started to see more wineries as well.
I wasn't too impressed with the coast at first and headed inland to check out the town of Buchan (not related to the author my Dad is so fond of, at least as far as I could tell) and the limestone caves in that area. Stayed in the caves campsite and got up the next day to tour Royal cave, which was very cool, lots of stalag...'s (both the up and down ones- don't feel like trying to spell these) as well as many 'roos in and around the campsites. The caves were enjoyable and a nice relief from the heat and the flies (more on these bastards later) and it was amazing to witness what rainwater and limestone and thousands of years can produce. On the way stopped at an interesting Aboriginal Museum in Bairnsdale. The history of the settler's interaction with the Aboriginal people is interesting, but they are now stressing recognition of Aboriginal culture and have been trying to settle differences since the 1860's. Well ahead of the US recognition and reconciliation with American Indians- every tourist spot here recognizes the original tribe and Aboriginal names of each region.
After caving proceeded to the coast again for the start of the intriguing Ninety Mile Beach at the town of Lakes Entrance. Had to drive around the lakes and back out to this beach, which is very pretty, with very sparse settlement and is really 90 miles long (why its not called the '150 Kilometer Beach I don't know). Stopped at the beach, walked down the sand... looked left, miles and miles of beach with no one in sight curving into the distance... looked right, many more miles of deserted beach... turned around to a huge cloud of at least 30 flies all competing to annoy the crap out of me by buzzing into ears, settling on my back, flying nearly up my nose or into my eyes!!!
This has been a constant problem since landing in Brisbane, but I feel I have to mention them now since they could possibly drive me completely insane. They are EVERYWHERE, every time I get out of the van they swarm. It is getting to the point where I don't even want to get out anymore! The only relief is a) they don't bite, b) they don't seem to like shade or being inside, and c) there isn't a c). So at least getting inside or into the car they don't like to follow. But when they do I take the time to kill each one- I figure I'm ridding the gene pool of the more annoying ones. So I literally ran back up the beach and stopped in the shade to get the sand out of my shoes.. and by the time I had removed one sandal and started shaking I could see 6 mosquitoes (or mossies as they are known here) land and start biting. Aaarrrrggghhhh!!!! See the picture from the Prom below to get an idea what I'm talking about. I'm not sure if we don't have this species or what- but seriously I'm usually not a fan of pesticides or spraying but something has got to be done Australia! I mean doesn't anything prey on these things? Where the hell are they?
The next day headed out to Wilson's Promontory, which includes the southernmost point of the Australian mainland (unfortunately reachable on a multi-day hike only). Planned to hike a peak and down to a beach- but the peak was closed due to fires, and did a short beach/ coast hike, and completed it, which was a little past the point I couldn't stand it anymore (the flies). I'm sure it's hilarious to watch me walk along waving my hands and slapping my back (often you look over your shoulder and see about 5 sitting there) like a maniac.
The picture of my leg was taken at the top, which granted was probably the worst of it, but there are always at least 6-7 at one time around your head anywhere I've stopped, except the cities. Left there and headed to Inverloch, finally finding some wind and a great bay... found some kiters but the wind was too strong for my smallest kite the 13 m... but luckily one of the kiters lent me her 9 m for $30 and I went straight for about 2.5 hours.
When I finally stopped I realized that both knees were very sore (at least it was both and not just my recently fixed one) but still had a huge smile and an interesting hairdo. Finally the van pays off somewhat! Didn't make it far until I stopped, ate, had some wine, and fell asleep.
This morning I checked out Phillips Island- they have a 'Penguin Parade' of small penguins that comes back to the beach at dusk and a large center put up for people to watch.
I had tried to make it the night before but kited for too long, so I tried to get up early and watch them go out (less crowded that way too) but by the time I got here I think they had left. Went out to the end of the island and did get to see a few penguins sheltering under the boardwalk, as well as the Nobbies, large pretty islands of nesting seabirds and seals. Finally had a shower to tame my kiting hairdo, but time to move on even though this is a very pretty island. Hopefully somewhere the flies can't find me!
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