Clouds and silver linings

Trip Start Sep 23, 2004

Trip End Ongoing

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Where I stayed

Adventure Backpackers Neiafu

(Neiafu hotels)

Flag of Tonga Vava'u, Tonga
Sunday, July 13, 2008

The travelling bad luck continued. Don, owner of Otuhaka, dropped us off bright and early at the small tin shed which serves as the domestic terminal. Rick stopped off to keep me company before heading to get his later flight from the international terminal (a few hundred metres away). I checked in my bags, gave over my tickets... they had no record of me. Despite having booked back in April, despite having confirmed with the tourist office and the airline, my name was not on the system. Apparently this happens quite often. They weren't sure if there were any spare seats. I might not be going anywhere.

After a half hour wait, I was informed that they could squeeze me on. An hour after that, I found that 'squeezed' meant exactly that, as I was tucked onto the tiny 15 seater plane between two rather well-built Tongan men (there was an aisle between me and one of the gentlemen, but he seemed to absorb most of it). The flight took us over islands with swathes of golden sand, nestling in turquoise lagoons. I wished I was in one of the treasured window seats, especially as both men fell fast asleep after take-off and were oblivious to the view

01 Port of Refuge

. Then the cloud closed in and the turbulence began. Landing the tiny craft in windy Vava'u was an interesting experience as the plane weaved, shook and bucked around, trying to decide between the runway, sea or a coconut plantation as it's prefered landing site. Touch down was remarkably smooth, considering.

A taxi took me into town, where I was warned that all shops and restaurants closed on Sunday, and if I wanted to stand a chance of eating the next day, I'd better go shopping fast. I'd missed the fresh produce of the market but managed to stock up on instant noodles and pasta. A trip to the dive shop confirmed my fears that the weather had scuppered my night dive, and things were not looking too promising for the dive I had planned for the next morning. Suddenly Sunday loomed yawningly empty. I took a stroll down to the marina, then had a drink at a bar overlooking the sheltered and picturesque Port of Refuge. I hoped that the weather would at least be good enough for me to have a decent walk.

Sunday dawned, windy and unexciting. The dive wasn't going ahead. I had heard the rumour that the Aquarium Cafe was opening for bruch for the first time, so went to check out their waffles, listen to the glorious singing at one of the church services, and take a walk. I headed to the little village of Toula, and Vaimumuni Cave. The paths echoed with song- there was a church every hundred metres or so, all filled with stunning singing. The cave was in a quiet and slightly eerie spot in the hills by the sea

02 My fale, Lucky's

. It contained a still, clear pool and is rumoured to be the home of a spirit. I wandered across the wind-swept bridge to the neighbouring island of Pangaimotu, passing through many little villages until I eventually reached quiet little Ano beach, where I had the pleasant lagoon to myself and spent an hour reading.

Eventually, I tore myself away for the long walk back; a kindly Tongan lady halved my journey time by giving me a lift to the village where she was going to pick up her family. I found that the Aquarium cafe was still open, and decided to forget about my noodles in favour of antipasto and a white wine spritzer, overlooking the sea. I soon had company in the form of Jim, a Canadian who was circumnavigating the world single-handed. I told him all about Rick's adventures in Fiji, and fairly soon found myself at the helm of the 35 ft yacht 'Island Prism' as we took it for a spin around the harbour. The winds were perfect, and the sheltered entrance to the harbour meant that there were no waves. We practiced racing turns and heading close to the wind, and swapped travel tales over a glass of red wine and some fresh marlin. A wonderful day after all, and not a two-minute noodle in sight.