The Golden Route and Isfjorden Walk

Trip Start Jun 02, 2012
Trip End Jun 28, 2012

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Flag of Norway  , Møre og Romsdal,
Friday, June 15, 2012

Our good weather blessings continued today. We started from Geiranger under cloudy skies - still enough visibility to be awed by Geiranger when we stopped for a view from the top of the fjord walls.

The clouds broke as we crested the pass to Trollstigen. Yesterday, we saw the snow at Dalsnibba in the fog. Today we saw the Norwegian summer snow with the sun sparkling off it. Everything was different at Trollstigen – they’ve torn down the charming old inn and gift kiosks that lined the path to the viewpoint and added an ultra-modern new visitor center and shopping complex. The viewing platforms are all new too – and again we had wonderful, sun-kissed vistas out over a stellar example of a u-shaped valley carved by glaciers.

The star of the show, though, was Stigfossen, probably the most impressive waterfall we’ve yet seen in terms of volume of water and length of drop. Even better, we drove the Trollstigen road – 11 hairpin turns down the side of the cliff - winding back and forth with the Stigfossen waterfall either on our left or right.

After lunch in the little town of Andalsnes, we met friends from Isfjorden I haven’t seen for 8 years. Inge was there with Liv and Vidar to walk with us from the town school. The weather provided glorious views of snow-draped mountain peaks on two sides, and the Isfjorden (fjord with same name as the town) on a third. At the end of the walk, Åsa (Inge’s wife) was there with Vidar’s wife offering 2 heaping platters of Norwegian waffles surrounded by a bowl each of strawberry and raspberry jam, sour cream compote, cake, and coffee and tea. This is volkssport at its best. The walk was outstanding (though only 7 km), food and fellowship went hand in hand, the walk provided a bridge between cultures and a pathway to renewed friendship, and finally, we did the stamping last.

Sadly, we said farewell – I never know when I will return – and pointed the coach towards Gålå, a remote lakeside community in the hills above the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. It was a long day – but a charming welcome from the hotel, and a delightfully small and manageable buffet provided a fitting end to a memory-packed day!
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Andrea on

An old boat captain in Maine told me that a fjord is an inlet that is deeper at the back than it is at the mouth, is that true??

Beautiful photos as always!

friesendm on

Yes, Andrea, that is what makes a fjord unique from a sound or other inlet. The increased weight of the ice cap further inland carved out a deeper groove farther inland. That's why those pesky cruise ships can come all the way to the head of a fjord.

Tink McTaggart on

Hi Dan!
I remember when Laura and I were with you in Norway in 1997. What a wonderful trip. Wish I could always repeat my trips just like you can!

friesendm on

Yup - that's the bright side of being in this business. I get to layer my experiences, learning more, witness change from a prior trip. Lots of changes in Scandinavia since I was last here. The immigration situation is vastly different - 28% of current Oslo population are non-Norwegian. For lots of reasons. Say "hi" to Laura if you think of it.

Us "2" Don and Joan Cooper on

Yes, we were there in 1997 with you, Tink and Laura.
Such a WONDERFUL Trip. So many, many WONDERFUL Memories.
We are following your blogs, Dear Dan, and enjoying and re-living over and over. THANKS for the treat. xox xox

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