California Day 3 - Wednesday September 12 - Coastal Drive to San Francisco
The planned route was to drive across to Point Reyes and then down the coast to San Francisco with a stop at Muir Woods.
The early morning drive from Petaluma to Point Reyes was foggy as hell. After stopping at the Parkside Café in Stinson Beach for breakfast we continued along the still foggy coastal highway (really a two lane road). We knew that we were driving along the ocean as the roar of the ocean surf beating against the rocks could be heard. Even with this sound backdrop the only thing visible was about 10 feet of pavement ahead of the car.
The final stop before hitting San Francisco was Muir Woods. Muir Woods contains several stands of Redwood trees.
The calming trail walk under these gigantic redwoods trees was a nice wrap up the countryside visit.
The drive to SF from Muir Woods was about a half hour. Upon reaching the Golden Gate Bridge I expected an immense structure of steel and concrete, but found instead a wall of white fog that covered most of the bridge. We could not even downtown SF. Only the top of the bridge's spans were visible.
After navigating through downtown SF we made it to the Fairmont atop Nob Hill. While Bill checked in, I returned the car to Avis. This two block trip turned into a fast intro to the steep hills of SF. After turning off California Avenue I went (at least it felt like) on a 45 degree nosedive to the street below. Thank god for brakes.
After a big climb up Nob Hill, I returned to the Fairmont and all its opulence. As it would turn out, the suite that we scooped up was both very large and very nice (a living room, bedroom, two bathrooms, six phones etc.). I now officially ranked it #3 on my all time list of hotels I have stayed in. This was a good start to the SF travel leg.
The afternoon started with visit to Chinatown. This turned into a major disappointment! SF is supposed to have one of the best Chinatown's in the world (outside of China of course) but I did not get any sense of Chinese culture at all. As opposed to seeing Chinese migrant vendors selling all sorts of teas, herbal remedies and obscure animal body parts, most stores offered cheap oriental trinkets and DVD's. What a let down.
We decided to eat supper at the buffet at the Tonga Room in the Fairmont mainly in part to its history. The Tonga Room has had a sparkling past with performers like Tony Bennett making many appearances there.
Upon entering the dimly lit Tonga Room we proceeded to our table. And it was a good thing I was sitting when I realized what we had walked into. What was revealed was similar in taste to a really, really bad Hawaiian shirt - either you really, really like it or you don't. For the visual record, the main area of The Tonga Room consisted of extremely tacky tiki hut like structures surrounding a lake.
A lake! Yes a lake! Apparently the nightly musical band climbs into a boat/stage that is then navigated into the middle of this lake.
Well, I thought nothing could top this Don Ho like experience - but was I ever wrong. While we were eating (our very horrible food) and having our umbrella drinks, a loud rumble of thunder erupted and then (get ready for this) it started to rain over the lake. This was soooo cheesy! The overall experience was so over the top it was actually comical. I certainly won't forget my visit to the Tonga Room any time soon.
California Day 4 - Thursday September 13 - SF continued
Our very busy touring day started early by taking the Cable Car down from Nob Hill (where the hotel is located) to Fisherman's Wharf.
This was great as it truly was a hop-on, hop-off ride. When all the seats are full, you may have occasion to stand and hold on to a pole while hanging out the side of the cable car.
The cable cars drive in the middle of the street permitting you to play chicken with oncoming traffic.
The cable cars would become the primary transportation source over the next few days. I also recommend getting at the front position of the cable car, especially after a couple beers.
After picking up our tickets for the evening cruise to Alcatraz, we proceeded to the chorus of harping sounds emanating from the adjacent pier.
At the pier a pack of elephant seals/seals were sunning themselves on floating docks. These creatures were oblivious to the people staring at them. Seeing them just lying there in the sun made you wonder who exactly were the tourists and the attraction.
The remainder of the day was spent visiting the key sites of SF, including the following:
Lombard Street was not always so turny. In an effort to reduce traffic flow on Lombard, city road planners introduced a number of sharp turns to discourage traffic flow.
However, the opposite effect resulted. More traffic resulted as people now drive down the street just for the hell of it.
We then walked from one end of Lombard to the Coit Tower. This was good exercise, as it required going up Telegraph Hill to the Coit Tower. Once there, we toured inside Coit with its panoramic view of SF. At the lower level of Coit, several murals depicted the early SF years.
Alcatraz - The Rock
The evening's entertainment was the trip to Alcatraz, aka The Rock. After a 15-20 minute ferry ride across, we were escorted up to the prison (with historical briefings along the way) to the start of the self guided audio tour of the cell block.
The tour was narrated by former occupants (including a guard and prisoner) describing the many cold, desolate corners of the prison.
To be a prisoner on Alcatraz must have been a truly agonizing experience. On one hand you were stuck in the middle of the cold Pacific where damp, cold seasonal fog would roll in on a daily basis and make life in the already dark and dreary cellblock even more miserable (Tidbit: August due to the fog effect is the coldest month on Alcatraz). On the other hand you were incarcerated in full view of SF and the best that freedom has to offer. It is said that when the wind blew correctly, prisoners could smell Ghiradelli chocolate and Boudin bread from factories across the bay in SF. That would be the worst punishment.
Bill and I signed up for an underground tour. Originally Alcatraz was a military fort with moats but when it was changed to accommodate prisoners the moats were converted to solitary confinement cells. The tour itself was not inspiring due to the uneducated tour guide but what was eerie were the prisoner graffiti such as prisoner number, name, day count etched into the cell walls.
Alcatraz Prison Hospital Ward
Evening is certainly the time to go to Alcatraz. The setting sun provided lovely views of the SF cityscape and the Golden Gate Bridge.
Sunset at Golden Gate Bridge - From Alcatraz
California Day 5 - Friday September 14 - SF Final Full Day
In part due to our divergent interests, Bill and I parted ways on Friday. I hit as many of the remaining sites that interested me while Bill explored SF's finest stores.
The SF bus system delivered me first to the Palace of Fine Arts. The Palace of Fine Arts was a real surprise. I truly enjoyed this display of old world type architecture. Unexpected gems like this is what makes travelling fun and rewarding.
The unfortunate thing here is that this site was built over a swamp and the swamp is slowly reclaiming the location. These structures are starting to fall into the swamp. While I was there, numerous machines were digging in an attempt to solidify these massive structures.
From here I walked towards the ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge area. However, as is the case all too often in SF, the fog had rolled in and the Golden Gate Bridge was nowhere to be seen.
As you can see (or rather can't) the fog was thick and the Golden Gate Bridge is nowhere to be seen.
I took a few minutes to chill out and relax at the beach. The locals don't seem to mind the foggy weather as the beachfront was busy with dog walkers, joggers and people sitting on benches taking in the cool, refreshing Pacific air.
I then made my way to the Golden Gate Park. All major cities seem to have their oasis from the big avenues and promenades (NYC has Central Park; London has Hyde/Green/Regent Parks) and SF is no different.
I started out at the Japanese Tea Gardens seeking a few moments of Zen. From Buddha to pagodas, all areas of the tea gardens demonstrated the fine art of Japanese gardening. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
My final stop was at the Mission Dolores. This is the original mission established by the Spanish. In total over twenty missions were established in California to spread Christianity in the new world.
The old Mission San Francisco de Asis is very much as it was when it was founded in 1776. The interior retains much the original structure including redwood ceiling beams and ornate altars.
Next door is the more recent Basilica containing numerous stained glass windows depicting the original California missions. From the Basilica one passes thought the cemetery holding a diverse collection of souls from Ireland, Chile and elsewhere. A peaceful tranquility persisted throughout the cemetery. I think it was the statues of St. Francis and others that provided calm to those resting and visiting here.
The day ended with me meeting up for supper with Felicia, a friend from Newfoundland, and her husband George. We met at Gordon Biersch's restaurant at the foot of the Bay Bridge. With night falling, I stood on the restaurant patio with beer in hand under the Bay Bridge. This was indeed a wonderful wrap-up to a wonderful vacation.
California Day 6 - Friday September 14 - SF Final Full Day
Bill departed early for the airport. I luckily had the morning to say farewell to SF.
I had hoped to pick up a couple additional bottles of wine before heading back. Felicia had told me that her brother Chris often brings back more than the 2 bottle limit without paying duty. I therefore decided to have a look for more vino.
I headed down to the Ferry Building/Embarcadero area to hunt out the Wine Merchant store I had seen there a few days back. The Wine Merchant specialized in smaller wineries and wines only found in California. My first two purchases were from larger producers, so I thought that this would be a good balance.
I was greeted at the Ferry Building by a Farmers Market. After picking up a coffee at Peet's and morning pastry from the bakery I meandered around the farmers market waiting for the wine store to open.
At the Wine Merchant I received some recommendations from the local wine guy and then made my final wine buying decisions. With wine box in hand I made my way to the hotel, then the airport and finally back home to Ottawa.
Post Mortem
Often vacation stories come to a conclusion while on vacation. For this trip, a few items of interest arose after the trip's end.
Upon Bill's return to Toronto, he sold his $100 Beringer wine, and at cost. I could not believe it. After all his deliberations, he went and sold his precious wine. Groan...
After giving a couple bottles away as presents, I cracked the 2002 Zinfandel from Neibaum-Coppola at Colin and Kelly's place. It was really good with the ribs that Colin prepared. A definite hit! Unfortunately I only brought home one bottle.
By the way, I ended up paying duty on my extra wine. A total $9 Canadian all because some newbie Customs agent decided I needed to pay the piper.
Finally, I hear that a sequel to the 'Sideways' movie is in the works. It will be based somewhere overseas - Burgundy? Tuscany? Rhineland? Whatever the destination it sounds like something I could definitely go for!
Signing off for now....Kevin.
MISC Useless Info
In the movie Sideways - Miles' wine of choice in his wine collection is a 1992 Byron. Miles, for the record, does not like Merlot.
Sideways was filmed in the Santa Barbara area - not Napa.
My favourite Miles wine tasting quote from Sideways is as follows: "Chardonnay - quaffable but far from transcended." Although it sounds good, I have no idea what it means.
Almost two thirds of the movie "The Rock" with Sean Connery was filmed at Alcatraz. Other movies about Alcatraz include The Birdman of Alcatraz, Escape from Alcatraz and Murder in the First.
Kevin's Wine List - Purchases
Neibuam-Coppola - 2003
Sterling Vineyards - 2002 Merlot
White Rock Vineyards - 2002 Chardonnay
Il Cuore - 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Bill's Wine List - Purchases
Beringer - 2001 Private reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - St. Helena Reserve
Beringer - 2001 Merlot
The Cedar Knoll Vineyard..... 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Robert Craig - 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder
Kevin's All-Time Top Three Hotel Experiences
1. Dublin Westin, Dublin Ireland
2. Waldorf-Astoria, NYC
3. Fairmont San Francisco
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