A TV star! and a lot of fun

  Tehran, Iran
Saturday, May 6, 2006

How to even START to describe my four action-packed days in Tehran and all the amazing people I met...? At the beginning I guess! And the beginning is a website, www.couchsurfing.com - this site puts you in touch with people in other countries who are willing to put you up for the night (or two) - usually on their couch. I searched this site and found Fahime who lives in Tehran, who oh so kindly agreed that she would LOVE to have me for a few days and to give me a glimpse into 'real' life in Iran.

And WHAT an experience. The accommodation was better than a 4 star hotel - I had a whole room to myself in a beautiful apartment and food prepared constantly - even my own laundry service! Fahime and her husband are both artists, and their friends are from a very wide-spread background. Through them I met musicians and artists, students, housewives and photographers. A great variety of people who, from morning til evening arrived at the house to take me to see different parts of Tehran. I had not a moment to myself which at times was exhausting, but for most of the time was most welcome. I visited downtown Tehran, the mountains, drove the streets of the city, and the bazaar.


One of the biggest highlights was my day out with Ehsam, a struggling photographer a few years younger than me. He spoke little English but was the perfect host, guide, bodyguard (he was BIG) and photographer! First stop was Golestan Palace - a 400 year old palace right in the heart of Tehran that was used right up until the Islamic Revolution. It is a beautiful complex, filled with old pictures and photography that gave a great glimpse into life before the revolution. It was here that we came across a TV camera crew (!!yip!!) who wanted to interview me. I have no idea what it was about - I think they were a comedian act - all I had to do was stand and smile and answer their questions in broken English about my time in Iran. Fun fun fun! Imagine that - Hannah the TV star!


From the palace we wandered around town, taking photos of regular street life (most at the bottom of this page) before heading to the National Museum (pretty good) and the National Jewellery Museum housed in a bank vault. This was a SPECTACULAR museum with the most amazing jewellery I have seen (at least on par with those at the palace in Istanbul). A whole GLOBE made out of precious jewels, a throne, and the largest pink diamond in the world. Security was incredible, and of course, no cameras were allowed so no pics sorry :( After the drooling done at the museum we sat and drank juice at a cafe before heading home to talk some more. A thoroughly enjoyable day!


Another day was spent with an Iranian girl who went to my same university in Japan. Shiva invited me to her house for lunch - a feast served by servants! From there, Shiva her sister and I headed north of the city to the residence of the last Shar, the amazing Sa'd Abad Complex. There are several palaces and museums in the complex - in the hills overlooking the city. It was such a lovely surrounding that its not wonder that the Shar had no idea that the Islamic Revolution was going on in the smelly city below - if I was him I would have spent all my time here as well!


Another day was spent doing the rounds of the city. I visited the old US Embassy site where the staff were held hostage for 444 days! This for me was a highlight, I had been told not to even bother going, that its just a wall. But nobody told me the size of the complex (the 'wall' is about 200m long) and that the graffiti on it would be so amazing. Everywhere, mainly in Persian but also occassionally in English, were death to America slogans. In many places were vivid drawings of the Statue of Liberty depicted as skull and crossbones. The propoganda was incredible! From there me and my guide for the day visited a small arts museum, the Contemporary Arts Museum (fantastic) ... and even Tehran University! Another lovely day learning more about Tehran and Iranians.


After 4 days of constant attention and sights, it was time for me to move on. To the most beautiful city in the world - Esfahan. But before that, here are some street scenes from Tehran so you can all get a real feel for the place!



And the billboards everywhere... mainly about (Iran-Iraq) War Maryrs....