Chaotic Kathmandu

Trip Start Jun 29, 2008

Trip End Nov 27, 2008

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Flag of Nepal Kathmandu, Nepal
Monday, October 27, 2008

Kathmandu lies in Kathmandu valley, which includes 3 cities, which were the capitals of 3 separate kingdoms prior to the unification of Nepal. Thus there is Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, each with their own Durbar (palace) square, all 3 of which we visited independently during our time in Kathmandu.

We also visited important religious sites in Kathmandu, including the holiest Hindu shrine of Pashupatinath (80% of Nepalis are Hindu) and the Buddhist sites of Bodhnath stupa and the Monkey Temple (Swayambhunath). (Have you noticed the names of places here are difficult? Why don't you try and remember all the different gods of Hinduism or the various appearances of Buddha? Unbelievable!) Everybody's favourite site was Bodhnath stupa, which had a very calming and peaceful feel about it. Tibetan exiles perform their daily devotions around the stupa, and there are a number of monasteries here. Bodhnath has always been linked to Tibetan Buddhism, as a major trade route went through here and Tibetan traders' would come here to give thanks for a successful journey across the Himalayas (or praying for a safe return!). A sizeable Tibetan refugee community lives around here now, since they have fled Tibet after the unsuccessful uprising against the Chinese communists in 1959. This is the place to come to experience unrestrained Tibetan culture, and it is an absolute charm!

No visit to Kathmandu would be complete without plunging into Thamel, the tourist shopping and eating district. Beware of crazy drivers in cars, vans and on motorbikes, as well as rickshaws and cart pushers. You should also be ready for large crowds in the area between Thamel and Durbar square on Saturday - the day off for the Nepalese and thus their market day. You can be literally carried along the narrow streets by the crowd, which occasionally needs to part slightly to allow the horn blowing motorcyclists through. There are some fantastic restaurants to try down town, including Fire and Ice (pizza, pasta) and Yin Yang (Thai - with an actual Thai chef; also an impressive drinks list). The Indian place next door to Yin Yang (Third Eye) was also recommended to us, but we unfortunately did not get around to eating there. All 3 of these restaurants have wifi, an added bonus..