Beach Reflections
Trip Start
Nov 15, 2008
1
12
18
Trip End
Feb 12, 2009
After the wonderful chaos of north India, Sash and I finally headed to the sun and surf of Goa. Full of hope for the tropical paradise that Goa is supposed to be, we landed from our short and somewhat pleasant flight from Ahmedabad to find ourselves in a landscape dotted with palm trees and basking in that beautiful warmth the sun affords this perennially cloudless sky.
We headed north, to Arambol, which is reputedly the least developed beach in Goa. If this was the case, we were badly disappointed. Was this India, or Ibiza? Apart from the myriad English and Russian tourists who don't step outside of Goa in India, simply visiting because of the cheap booze and 'Bhang' (i.e. Hash), we realised that the locals were outnumbered by the tourists. Forty years ago Goa must have been spectacular, and the perfect setting for that psychadelic experiment of the '60s, but no longer. Commercialisation has well and truly taken over, and the place has lost its soul.
After meeting the riveting Hunt, an American tourist, who, unfortunately, was the posterchild of the stereotypical, ignorant American, we had the last straw. After his assertion that Hinduism is the "religion with the dot", and having seen a Labrador, declaring that finally, this was a "Western dog", we got out of Goa as quickly as possible!
And so we headed to Gokarna, in northern Karnataka, in search of that pristine beach we hear so much about but have difficulty finding. We arrived after an aborted train ride, which is not uncommon in India, and found a smaller town, considered very holy by Hindus, and overrun with pilgrims and hippies. It would be wonderful to have shared in some of the holiness of the place, but non-Hindus are barred from entry into the temples in Gokarna, due to the common exclusivity propounded by the Hindus in regard to the 'mlecchas' (polluted foreigners). So we basked in the sun and sea, making the best of this wonderful climate and [relatively] clean environment.
New year's eve itself was spent quietly, enjoying a bottle of 'Appy Fizz' (sparkling apple juice) on the main beach, listening to some local teens blring "Who Let the Dogs Out" from their car stereo and urging us to join them. We were tired though. The sun and India together can have a draining effect, and so we headed to sleep quite early. Off we go to Hampi tonight, where the next update will be from. For now, off to the beach. Happy new year!
We headed north, to Arambol, which is reputedly the least developed beach in Goa. If this was the case, we were badly disappointed. Was this India, or Ibiza? Apart from the myriad English and Russian tourists who don't step outside of Goa in India, simply visiting because of the cheap booze and 'Bhang' (i.e. Hash), we realised that the locals were outnumbered by the tourists. Forty years ago Goa must have been spectacular, and the perfect setting for that psychadelic experiment of the '60s, but no longer. Commercialisation has well and truly taken over, and the place has lost its soul.
After meeting the riveting Hunt, an American tourist, who, unfortunately, was the posterchild of the stereotypical, ignorant American, we had the last straw. After his assertion that Hinduism is the "religion with the dot", and having seen a Labrador, declaring that finally, this was a "Western dog", we got out of Goa as quickly as possible!
And so we headed to Gokarna, in northern Karnataka, in search of that pristine beach we hear so much about but have difficulty finding. We arrived after an aborted train ride, which is not uncommon in India, and found a smaller town, considered very holy by Hindus, and overrun with pilgrims and hippies. It would be wonderful to have shared in some of the holiness of the place, but non-Hindus are barred from entry into the temples in Gokarna, due to the common exclusivity propounded by the Hindus in regard to the 'mlecchas' (polluted foreigners). So we basked in the sun and sea, making the best of this wonderful climate and [relatively] clean environment.
New year's eve itself was spent quietly, enjoying a bottle of 'Appy Fizz' (sparkling apple juice) on the main beach, listening to some local teens blring "Who Let the Dogs Out" from their car stereo and urging us to join them. We were tired though. The sun and India together can have a draining effect, and so we headed to sleep quite early. Off we go to Hampi tonight, where the next update will be from. For now, off to the beach. Happy new year!

