Across the ways and down the ways

Trip Start Apr 16, 2008
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Trip End Apr 15, 2009


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Flag of Lao Peoples Dem Rep  ,
Monday, May 19, 2008

After reading that the upper section of the Nam Ou river in Laos was a sight not to be missed, I set a plan to miss the well travelled 'slow boat' to Luang Prabang and instead make my way across northern Laos and take the Nam Ou river south to Luang Prabang. Bus travel in laos is always exciting if a little slow, and no part of this trip failed to surprise me. A few points to note about Laos buses:
1. The bus is never full. Even if there ar already 50 boxes of orange juice and 25 people inside a tiny bus, a new customer is always welcome. Sure why not hang out the back and give the baby to that old lady sitting at the front.
2. Buses only leave in the morning. Arriving in your next town by lunchtime still means that you need to wait until the next day for you next bus.
3. The ticket does not guarantee a seat. If getting on along the way, you may be obliged to stand in the door well, sit on a bit of foam beside the gearstick or just squeeze in beside someone. Leg-room is a rare luxury for western length bodies.
4. Laos bus travellers are very friendly and patient Damien and Michael in p/u
Damien and Michael in p/u
. You will be offered free food by your seat partner, which despite not knowing what it is you might as well take. Usually its delicious.
The route was Houay Xai to Luang Namtha to Oudom Xai to Muang Qua to Muang Ngoi to Nag Kio to Luang Prabang, of which half was bus and the other half was boat. Incidentally, the rules for the bus also hold for the boat which is almost more worrying - also one added rule.
5. You can hail a boat from the shore. Waving back to a local waving from the shore may seem polite but will get you a bad look when they climb on board. You can also deliver post to any boat travelling down the river.

In terms of company, I met Damien and Michael at the start of the trip and ended up travelling with them for several days. Also, met a South African couple (Brett and Candice) whom I hung out with in Muang Ngoi for a few days.

Muang Ngoi is a idyllic little town on the Nam Ou which is only reachable by boat. It is set in between some fantastic karst scenery and is a cool place to chill out for a few days. That is partly because the area is so beautiful but also because there is not a lot else to do but go swimming or take some hikes. Even got to join in a Laos wedding party in town which was very similar to an Irish one (all the guys sit around drinking Lao Lao and all the ladies start the dancing in the middle).

Off to Luang Prabang next so talk to you soon.
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Comments

stevecarroll
stevecarroll on May 28, 2008 at 08:34PM

Views from the Skimmock
...you'll be having plenty more of them! Pretty cool Laos alternative rowt!

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