Trip Start Feb 02, 2010
97Trip End Feb 02, 2011
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So when we were finished in the library we took the road that would lead us along the beaches that sometimes have whale bones but unfortunately found nothing. We did find a beautiful camping spot though. Hidden from the road by some birch trees we set up our tent on the edge of the rocks leading down to the water. Above us on the almost vertical mountain sides, some sheep are always grazing, some others often came wandering right down the middle of the main highway through Lofoten to check us out before carrying on their way. In the bushes around us we found some berries which we think are blueberries. They looked like blueberries, smelt right and after tasting a few and not getting sick, the next day we decided they must have been so we foraged around for many more.
We decided to throw the a tarp over the tent in case of rain and I’m very glad we did, in the early hour of the morning we got a splattering of rain
I think this area of Lofoten is probably my favourite, it doesn't seem to be as wet, boggy and misty as Tind and here there are stunning white coral sand beaches. All around here there are little bays with white, white beaches and crystal clear blue water. Below such steep, rugged mountains and between the normal rocky shores these little fractures of (very cold) paradise are sort of strange but very beautiful.
Here we also had very good luck fishing - in the end - after many hours with not even a bite, when we finally did catch some fish it was well worth the wait. We pulled in two beautiful Mackerel. The first was just big enough but we had hooked it in the internal organs and it probably would not have survived so we kept it
Catching and eating fish has been a very important experience for me. At home I am vegetarian because I don’t believe I have the right to eat another living creature without understanding the sacrifice that has been made for me to eat (and because commercial meat farming is so environmentally unethical). I feel that without being capable of taking a life myself I don’t deserve to eat meat. I have not been able to kill the fish myself so far. Realising I can’t kill a fish, even though I have become very capable and comfortable with gutting and cleaning it has really clearly sorted my feeling on my vegetarianism. Before we left Australia, after six years of strict vegetarianism, I started to eat a little kangaroo and now in Europe I have been eating meat because I feel it is a bit rude to reject a meal someone has offered from the kindness of their heart. (I enjoy the taste but feel so terrible and guilty.) But now after my fishing experience, something I feel very strongly about has become so much stronger and clearer, I know with such certainty now I will be a strict vegetarian back home.
We smoked the fish again for dinner and afterwards had a fire on the rocks. Before bed we made everything rain proof, clouds were gathering and flowing down the sides of the mountains like thick white blankets drawn across the landscape by invisible threads. Lucky we did because again it rained in the early hours of this morning. It stopped around midday and with the wind, an hour or so later the tent was completely dry. Observing the the sky over quite a few hours, strangely the thick clouds and mist didn’t move from above us towards the other side of the fjord, Henningsvaer was always in full sun. So we decide to pack up and move on. After only twenty minutes or so of riding we went into a tunnel and when we came out the other side it was like magic. The mist was gone and the sun was shinning. The weather here is so localised.
And so now we are in the biggest town of Lofoten, Svolvaer. We have treated our hungry tummies to the cheapest items on the menu while we sit and use the free wireless internet. So, soon we will hop back on the bike and head roughly in the direction of Tromso, maybe not quite so far. The reason we wanted to go there was because we thought we had to to see the midnight sun but we have made it well into midnight sun viewing territory already - only we have arrived too late to see it and couldn’t travel fast enough to still catch it further north, so Tromso now seems like just another city to try and make us spend more money (We have heard it is very beautiful, but our way of travelling is centred on nature, not cities). So maybe we will cut across to Finnland through Sweden sooner then we thought.