North through Trondheim to Afjord
Trip Start Feb 02, 2010
97Trip End Feb 02, 2011
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As Felix walked out an elderly man came over smiling and said he was part of a not-so-active old-timer Motorcycle Club and that maybe he could help us with Nina’s carburettor, but after a closer look realised it was too different to his old Zundapp to swap parts. We felt so encouraged and supported by a stranger’s interest and kindness in that moment, something that is especially strong in the Norwegian culture.
Next we headed over to the horrible City Syd shopping mall where we found a public phone to call another biker, Arne from the Barracuda MC who we also met on the weekend. He is a mechanic and also owns a Ural so had offered us a place to say and some mechanical help and parts should we need it. Felix has been hoping for a while someone with mechanical training and Ural experience could have a look over Nina again and hopefully catch any problems before they make themselves apparent on the road. We got an address and were quickly on our way to Åfjord
In Åfjord we were welcomed warmly and firmly instructed to make ourself at home. We have total luxury, the whole ground floor apartment to ourselves. Lena, Arne’s wife who is such a character, but is the kindest, friendliest, warm hearted person, made a local speciality for dinner, a brothy soup with vegetables and little meatballs called ‘Sodd’ - after riding on a cold drizzly night (even though it was still broad daylight at eleven) it was perfectly warming and so good. We had a really nice evening with them watching Pulp Fiction and talking.
So today we slept in again. Since one PM when Arne came home from work, he and Felix have been out in the workshop working on Nina, every time I go out to see how their going they say all is going well, things seem to be working out right now, which is very nice. When they came back from a little test ride, Felix seemed very happy with the way Nina went. Good news! For dinner Lena cooked a dinner very similar to Lasagne but with potatoes replacing the pasta sheets. Such goodness, cheesy, meaty, tomato, yumminess.
We stayed up late again talking with Arne and Lena, learning that Lena is possibly one of the most qualified drivers out there
Wednesday we managed to get out of bed just after the crack of midday. We were going to catch a ride into Trondheim with Lena. First we drove in the car to the bus interchange, where we then got into the bus, a massive coach - that even had an on board hot water earn, providing hot water for people to make a free coffee or tea as the journeyed. On this bus we drove to the ferry, the same one Felix and I caught on our way to Åfjord on Monday evening. On the ferry, Lena is counted as crew - as she is on the ferry with various buses sometimes up to four times a day, so up we went into the crew only section where we talked to two men working on the ferry about their experiences sailing cargo ships to Australia to pick up exports of sugar and lead
Lena dropped us of right in the middle of Trondheim and then we walked straight to Nidaros Cathedral, a massive and famous Cathedral. I thoroughly, thoroughly enjoyed visiting Nidaros even though I find it a little strange that places like that are built for worship and as a holy sanctuary but are now flooded with tourists and are just a big money making tourist attraction. I can see why though, and I’m quite glad in a guilty was because otherwise it wouldn’t have been so kosher to wander in like we did. It is such a beautiful building, the effort and detail gone into making such a place is staggering. The stone carving of every piece and the stained glass, gosh I loved the stained glass windows! So colourful and beautiful. And as you walk through the cathedral they tell different stories from the bible.
The best bit though was going up onto the roof. We luckily, luckily got a place in the last group for the day to go up. So we waited in a corral, then when the last from the previous group was down up we went. One of the strangest thing I have ever felt as a sensory muddle came from walking up the narrow, spiral stairs. This is not an activity for anyone wider then your average healthy person, I’m not thin, but I’m not very wide either and I wouldn’t want to be any more so for going up those stairs
I could have spent longer looking in the Cathedral but following our usual pattern of arriving late and getting kicked out at closing time, we had to leave a little sooner then I would have preferred. Lena was going to pick us up in another bus at seven, so we had an hour and a half to have a look around the city. We had a little to eat at a not so reputable fast food restaurant and went to the supermarket to restock for the trip further north. We then walked around little bit before going to the bus stop to wait for Lena. The ride back to the ferry, on the ferry and back to the bus station was much the same as on the way to Trondheim. At the bus station, we went through the automatic bus wash which was fun
Today we had a late start, it was still raining even though the weather man has been promising sun for a few days now. Felix swapped the most worn tire - the back tire - with the least worn one on the sidecar so we can get a few more thousand kilometres out of the set of tires, and also checked and adjusted the brakes. In the afternoon, well around seven, we - Felix, Arne, Lena and I went for a ride. Us on Nina and them on Arne’s Ural Hilda. What a beautiful ride it was. Through valleys with huge cliffs rising way above us. We rode along the stunning rocky coast and along lakes. Through little fishing towns and to a lovely sandy beach near Stocksund with very posh apartments for expensive holidays. It was so beautiful. As we were riding along just before we turned to go back home I was thinking how perfect the weather was, the sun had come out and was setting over the sea and making wonderful colours and patterns in the clouds.
We stopped at the start of a path leading up into a cave in one of the cliffs for a moment before turning to go home. Felix offered I have a ride. I have been riding occasionally, we think it’s a good idea I can at least ride in first gear should we happen to end up in a emergency situation where Felix can’t but I don’t get much chance to practice
Then something funny happened. We came up to a short but steep bit of road and I had to change gears. I got terribly flustered as I usually do when I have to change gear and ended up stalled halfway up the hill. I was to scared to do a hill start so in the bucketing rain Felix and I did this funny shuffle of positions. Without letting the bike roll down the hill. It was very funny. We had no wet weather gear with us so by the time we got home all four of us were soaked and very cold. It didn’t matter and no spirits were dampened as we had a nice warm dry house to warm up and dry off in. Plus another yummy dinner. While dinner was prepared, Arne took Felix in Hilda to see the Barracuda Motorcycle Club House which was very cool to see and also gave us an exchange patch to stitch to our jackets with the Barracuda MC logo on it. So tomorrow we plan to head off again - we could be tempted to stay another day if it’s still raining. It is meant to be mainly sunny though. We have had such a good time here. It’s been really fun, a lot laughing, talking, good food, good motorbike repairs. But we must (and want to) keep adventuring, after all, thats what we’re here for.