End of Moravia and onto Brno, Cz
Trip Start May 09, 2012
7Trip End Jun 05, 2012
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I left off the blog in Moravia but didn't go into much detail on what we saw.
As I said, the countryside of southern Czech is wonderfully verdant and looks fertile, except it was kind of a monoculture of that yellow crop we still haven't identified (Matilda, of Sorosis days, thinks it might be rapeseed). Then of course there were the millions of vineyards on every hillock. We thought we might be in part of the Sudetenland (of fame from Chamberlain and the Munich Agreement of 1938) and we agreed that Hitler knew good real estate when he saw it
I loved best Mikulov and Lednice. Mikulov was up on a hillside in this otherwise pretty flat territory. Nice historical buildings, but my favorite place was the Jewish cemetery in what was the Jewish section of town. At one point, Jews made up 42% of Mikulov and you can tell because that lovely, semi-wild graveyard went on for what seemed acres climbing up and then down small rises in the terrain. Darcy and I both could have stayed there all day just wandering.
Mikulov was one of the seats of the Dietrichstein dukes and as you looked out from the castle's perch the only jarring thing you could see in the distance was these horrid silver silos of some sort so I called them the Silverstein dukedom and wanted to juxtapose the images of both 'castles' side by side in this blog, but of course it's not possible. But you can see some similarities between the old dukedoms and the new in the shape of their "castles."
Lednice is one of the palaces of Leichtensteins and it was glorious. There was an old one, and then in the 1800's they build a much more ornate and Frenchified (as Darcy said) new chateau to live in. Darcy paid to go in and just loved the huge rooms and floor to ceiling windows and the light. I peeked in (me being cheap) and saw these great doors between rooms that were ceiling-high and almost all glass.
We wandered (although separately) around the extensive forest and field grounds to the minaret, which the duke's architect built by a lake, being impressed by Islamic design, and as you wander the lake and river that runs there too, you can see the remains of an old aqueduct and numerous tree-tops nests of a vast number of herons
We spent our last Happy Hour in Lednice in their formal garden (free and in walking distance from our hotel), drinking our wine amongst the formal hedges, expecting to be busted at any minute, but no authority was anywhere in sight. Probably the bad economy.
Brno was our last stop in CZ Rep. and it was really pretty okay.
I think that's where Darcy really let me have it on the fact that whenever we walk together I am always 20 paces in front of her. She thought I was rude because that distance of 20 paces seemed to be constant, so it looked as if I just didn't want to walk with her (well, her outfit sometimes might have made others not want to--but I love her hats), but the truth was that I became aware she was way behind so I slowed to her pace, but was still way ahead. She even used the F-word to say out loud how rude I was... right there in public on the street in poor innocent Brno. Very shocking. We worked it out in Budapest by my walking a little slower when with her, and our doing our wandering separately most of the time. Worked great.
More photos attached. Click on the first one to start a slide show, if you want.