Cairo and the pyramids in Giza

  Cairo, Cairo, Egypt
Saturday, July 12, 2008

By the time this long day was over Diana and I were awake 23 hours.  It was a long day!!

We arrived in Cairo in the late afternoon.  We were picked up and taken to our hotel.  At 7PM we were picked up and driven to the port on the Nile River.  From here Diana and I went for a dinner Nile River cruise.  There was constant entertainment as we enjoyed our meal.  The hilight for Diana was the one Egyptian lady who was belly dancing.  She came out three different times in three deifferent outfits to dance.

Nile River cruise 3

Nile River cruise 2

Nile River cruise 4

Nile River cruise 8

Nile River cruise bellydancer 3

Nile River cruise bellydancer 7

Nile River cruise bellydancer 9

 

Nile River cruise bellydancer 91

Nile River cruise bellydancer 92

Nile River cruise bellydancer 94

Nile River cruise bellydancer 96

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Diana and I started our tour early in the morning.  Our first stop was at Sakkara.  This is the site of the first pyramid.  At this point in time when it was built they were not able to create a pyramid like the three famous ones.  So Sakkara is known as a step pyramid as it appears to be a large rectangular structure wth a smaller one on top and then a smaller one on top of that one and so on.  Sakkara is one section of the great necropolis of Memphis, the Old Kingdom capital and the kings of the First Dynasty as well as that of the Second Dynasty are mostly buried in this section of the Memphis necropolis.  The Step Pyramid is the oldest known of Egypt's 97 pyramids. It was built for King Djoser of the Third Dynasty by the architect and genius Imhotep, who designed it and its surrounding complex to be as grand as it was unique and revolutionary. Imhotep was the first to build stone tombs in honor of the king's majesty. His many titles included 'Treasurer of the King of Lower Egypt', 'Administrator of the Great Palace', and 'Imhotep the Builder, the Sculptor, the Maker of Stone Vessels'. 

Saqqara, Giza

Saqqara

Saqqara step pyramid

distant pyramids

Saqqara step pyramid 1

Egyptian artifacts at Saqqara

Egyptian artifacts at Saqqara 4

posing at Saqqara

posing at Saqqara 1

From Sakkara we had a nice view all around us of te desert.  Off in the distance we could spot the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid.

Next we drove to the site of the famous pyramids of Giza.  But first, some history on this site...When Khufu, perhaps better known by his Greek name, Cheops, became king of Egypt after the death of Sneferu, there was no convenient space remaining at Dashur, where Sneferu was buried, for Khufu's own pyramid complex. Hence, he moved his court and residence farther north, where his prospectors had located a commanding rock cliff, overlooking present day Giza, appropriate for a towering pyramid.  Giza can be subdivided into two groupings of monuments, clearly defined and separated by a wadi. The larger grouping consists of the three "Great" pyramids of Khufu, Khephren (Khafre), and Menkaure, the Sphinx, attendant temples and outbuildings, and the private mastabas of the nobility. Though the three Great Pyramids are the most famous and prominent monuments at Giza, the site has actually been a Necropolis almost since the beginning of Pharaonic Egypt. A tomb just on the outskirts of the Giza site dates from the reign of the First Dynast Pharaoh Wadj (Djet), and jar sealings discovered in a tomb in the southern part of Giza mention the Second Dynasty Pharaoh Ninetjer. But it was the Fourth Dynasty Pharaoh Khufu (Cheops) who placed Giza forever at the heart of funerary devotion, a city of the dead that dwarfed the cities of the living nearby. In order to build his complex, he had to clear away many of the old tombs, filling in their shafts or even totally destroying them. His pyramid dominates the sandy plain.

Diana and I first visited the largest pyramid, Khufu's pyramid.  We were so excited to finally have this view.  We were able to walk right up to the pyramid and we could even climb up it a ways on the blocks.  It was quite exciting for me!

pyramids 1

Khufu's pyramid

Khufu's pyramid 1

pyramids

Khufu's pyramid, Giza

Khufu's pyramid 2

climbing Khufu's pyramid

climbing Khufu's pyramid 5

climbing Khufu's pyramid 2

Khufu's pyramid 4

Khufu's pyramid 3

camels in Cairo

ladies in Cairo

posing at Khufu's Pyramid

posing at Khufu's Pyramid 2

posing at Khufu's Pyramid 3

posing at Khufu's Pyramid 4

Of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, Khufu's Pyramid is the first, and only survivor. It is indeed impressive, originally standing some 146.59 (481 feet) high and covering about thirteen acres of land , though in the last hundred or so years, modern marvels (the Empire State Building, built in 1930, is over three times as tall though situated on only two acres of land) probably make it seem less impressive to visitors than to those who, for thousands of years, came to visit the pyramid prior to our modern era.  The finished pyramid, which included a superstructure and substructure, was surrounded by an enclosure wall of fine Turah limestone, which enclosed a court paved in limestone. There was a valley temple, a causeway from it leading to a mortuary Temple that was itself situated against the pyramid. There was also a cult pyramid, as well as three pyramids for the burial of queens, a number of boat pit and other structures.  Though we really do not know with absolute certainty, the pyramid complex of Khufu probably remained mostly intact for almost 4,000 years.

Next, we visited the second pyramid.  At this pyramid Diana and I paid a fee to be able to enter inside of the pyramid.  There is absolutely nothing to see inside but it was the excitement of walking down the clausterphobic inducing tunnels that go inside this ancient and magnificent pyramid and to be able to say that we were inside of this historic place.  The climb inside was demanding on the body and it was quite warm inside but a terific experience.  The tunnel led down into the pyramid to where the sarcoffogus used to be.

On its southwest diagonal is the pyramid of Khephren (Chephren, Khafre). Although it is smaller, a steeper angle results in the illusion that they are the same size. In fact, Kephren's pyramid appears taller since it is on higher ground. The notion that this was done on purpose to out-do his father is without question. As it occupies the central point, has the illusion of greater size, and still has some of its casing stones intact, it is frequently mistaken to as the Great Pyramid, something that would no doubt please Khephren were he alive today. 

Further along the southwest diagonal is the smallest of the three great pyramids, that of Khephrent's son, Menkaure. It is also the most unusual. First of all, it is not entirely limestone. The uppermost portions are brick, much like the several Pyramids at Dashur, though separated from them by several centuries. One theory is that Menkaure died before his pyramid could be completed, and the remaining construction was hastily done to finish it in time for the burial. It is also not along the diagonal line that runs through the Great Pyramid and the Second Pyramid, but instead is nearly a hundred meters to the southeast.

Then our guide took us to a panaramic vantage point that gave us a view of all three pyramids.  It was an impresive view to take in all three pyramids at once sitting here in the desert.  Diana and I also took a short camel ride along a ridge overlooking the three pyramids.

panarama of pyramids, Giza, Egypt

The Pyramids of Giza

A panarama of pyramids

The Pyramids of Giza 1

A panarama of pyramids 1

panarama of pyramids, Giza

playing at the panarama of pyramids 1

playing at the panarama of pyramids

playing at the panarama of pyramids 2

playing at the panarama of pyramids 3

panarama of pyramids

camel ride by the pyramids

camel ride by the pyramids 1

camel ride by the pyramids 2

Next we visited the Sphinx.  It is located in Khafre's pyramid complex area. It is  a huge creature with the head of a human and a lion's body. This monumental statue, the first truly colossal royal sculpture in Egypt, known as the Great Sphinx, is a national symbol of Egypt, both ancient and modern. It has stirred the imagination of poets, scholars, adventurers and tourists for centuries and has also inspired a wealth of speculation about its age, its meaning, and the secrets that it might hold.  The Great Sphinx is to the northeast of Khafre's (Chephren) Valley Temple. Where it sits was once a quarry. We believe that Khafre's workers shaped the stone into the lion and gave it their king's face over 4,500 years ago. Khafre's name was also mentioned on the Dream Stele, which sits between the paws of the great beast. However, no one is completely certain that it is in fact the face of Khafre, though indeed that is the preponderance of thought. Recently, however, it has been argued that Khufu, builder of the Great Pyramid, may have also had the Great Sphinx built. 

The Sphinx

The Sphinx, Giza

The Sphinx, Giza 1

The Sphinx, Giza 3

The Sphinx, Giza 4

The Sphinx, Giza 5

The Sphinx, Giza 6

The Sphinx, Giza 7

The Sphinx, Giza 8

The Sphinx, Giza w/ pyramid

Then we went for lunch at a location that overlooked the pyramids and Sphinx.

Later we visited a perfume factory.  In Egypt they have the pure fragrances that are used to make perfumes.  Most perfumes contain only 10% fragrance and close to 90% alcohol, but these Egyptain fragrances contained no alcohol.  In the end we spent a small fortune purchasing some fragrances to be used as cologne, perfume, medicine for a sore throat and to be burned for smell in the home.  In addition we bought some beautiful perfume bottles.

Later in the evening, Diana and I took a taxi on our own back to the restaurant we ate at for lunch.  Here we visited the 4th floor which was basically an open area on the roof.  Rather than spend money for the famous sound and light show at the pyramids we spent money on a good dinner and some drinks and had an intimate view of the show from atop this restaurant.

viewing the pyramids at night

viewing the pyramids at night 1

viewing the pyramids at night 3

viewing the pyramids at night in Giza

children in Cairo

people in Egypt

Egyptian spices

Our tour started today by visiting some religious sites.

a mosque in Cairo

Egyptian mosque

Egyptian mosque 1

Egyptian mosque 2

Fortress of Saladin

Egyptian mosque 4

Egyptian mosque 6

Egyptian mosque 90

Egyptian mosque 91

Egyptian mosque 92

Egyptian mosque 94

First we visited a famous Chrisitan Church.  This is where Jesus and his family fled and prayed while in exile.

Christian Church

Christian Church 1

Christian Church 2

Chrisitan Crypt of the Holy Family

Coptic Cairo

Coptic Cairo 1

Coptic Cairo 2

Coptic Cairo 3

Next we visited Ben Ezra Synagogue.  The Synagogue of Ben Ezra was originally named El-Shamieen Church, and is situated behind the "hanging church". The Synagogue once had an old copy of the Old Testament, and it was said that Ezra the Prophet (Al-Azir) had written it. It is believed that the site of the Synagogue was where the box of Baby Moses was found. ". The Ben Ezra Synagogue was originally a Christian church that the Copts had to sell, to the Jews, in 882A.D in order to pay the annual taxes imposed by the Muslim rulers of the time, and therefore Abraham Ben Ezra, who came from Jerusalem during the reign of Ahmed Ibn Tulun, bought the church for the sum of 20,000 dinars.  It is built in the shape of a basilica (rectangle), consisting of 2 floors; the 1st dedicated for the men while the 2nd is dedicated for the women. The entrance is situated on the north side. The decoration goes back to the Turkish Period. It is clearly seen on the side halls with patterns such as, star patterns, pentagonal patterns and rectangles. 

Ben Ezra Synagogue

Ben Ezra Synagogue 1

Ben Ezra Synagogue 2

Then we visited the Mohammed Ali Citadel  The mosque was built between 1830-1840. This mosque is also sometimes referred to as the Alabaster Mosque due to its extensive use of that stone on some of the exterior walls and other surfaces. Sometimes it is popularly known as al-qal'a, meaning citadel, and thus confused with the fortress in which it is located. The complex consists of two parts, the mosque proper to the east and the open courtyard, or sahn, to the west. Within the mosque are two minbars, or pulpits. The larger one of wood is decorated with gilt ornament, and is original. It is said to be one of the largest in Egypt, incorporating significant gold in its decorations. The smaller one of alabaster was a gift from King Faruq, dating to 1939. The mihrab, or prayer niche, is made of Egyptian marble. 

Mohammed Ali Citadel in Cairo

Mohammed Ali Citadel 1

Mohammed Ali Citadel

Mohammed Ali Citadel , Cairo

Mohammed Ali Citadel 8

Mohammed Ali Citadel 9

Mohammed Ali Citadel 2

The Mohammed Ali Citadel 4

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel 5

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel 3

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel 8

The Mohammed Ali Citadel

The Mohammed Ali Citadel 2

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel, Cairo

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel, Cairo 5

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel, Cairo 4

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel, Cairo 6

inside Mohammed Ali Citadel, Cairo 7

Later we visited the masive Cairo Museum.  There are over 147,000 artifacts here.  The bottom floor of the museum contained a variety of artifacts throughout all of the dynasties of Egypt.

Triad of Mycernius

King Chephren 1

seated scribe

Rahotep and Nofret

Queen Hatshepsut

Cairo museum 3

Nefertiti

King Tut mask

King Tut's mask

Cairo museum 2

King Tut's coffin

Perhaps the most famous were the contents of King Tut's tomb.  He was never a powerful King, but is so famous because his tomb was the only one ever found untouched.  All of the valuables found inside his tomb were now on display in the museum.
Maybe the most impressive piece found in Tutankhamun's tomb is not the mask, although that is the most well known. The kings gold inner coffin displays a quality of workmanship and an attention to detail which is unsurpassed.   The coffin is made of solid gold. It is 74" long, 20" wide and 20" high. The king is shown as Osiris holding the crook and flail, traditional symbols of kingship. There is little doubt that the most famous icon from Ancient Egypt is the funerary mask of Tutankhamun. It is a stunning example of the Ancient goldsmith's art.
The mask itself is made of solid gold, inlaid with lapis lazuli, cornelian, quartz, obsidian, turquoise and colored glass.


The last stop for the tour today was the Khan El Khalili market.  Diana and I stolled around here for over an hour bargaining like professionals and making some great purchases.

Khan El Khalili

Khan El Khalili 1

Khan El Khalili spices 1

Khan El Khalili spices

Khan El Khalili market

Khan El Khalili market 1

The market was built in 1382 by the Emir Djaharks el-Khalili in the heart of the Fatimid City. Together with the al-Muski market to the west, they comprise one of Cairo's most important shopping areas. But more than that, they represent the market tradition which established Cairo as a major center of trade, and at the Khan, one will still find foreign merchants. Perhaps, this vary market was involved in the spice monopoly controlled by the Mamluks, which encouraged the Europeans to search for new routes to the East and led Columbus, indirectly, to discover the Americas. During its early period, the market was also a center for subversive groups, often subject to raids before the Sultan Ghawri rebuilt much of the area in the early 16th century. Regardless, it was trade which caused Cairo's early wealth, even from the time of the Babylon fort which was often a settlement of traders.