Victoria Falls

Trip Start Apr 10, 2006
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14
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Trip End Jul 24, 2006


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Flag of Zimbabwe  ,
Monday, April 24, 2006

I was booked into the 'Small World' lodge for backpackers. I had originally chosen this one as it had a nice pool, but having arrived after dark and leaving at 7.00am the next morning - I wasn't going to get much chance for swimming. I later learnt though that this was the best backpackers lodge in Harare. My room was large and clean, and the shared bathroom was fine with plenty of hot water. I checked in and went for a beer, and had a long chat with Judy.

Someone today asked if I got lonely. In honesty, I haven't had a chance to be that lonely, the only times I have had free time I have filled it with updating my log or replying to emails, I have opened up and enjoyed conversations with many people I have met and this has helped. But best of all Judy and I have spoken by phone many times a day, which has been wonderful, whilst I am dreading my phone bill (I purchased an international sim, but until I buy a sim free phone in Hing Kong, I can't enjoy it's cheaper rates), the contact has been essential, and brought us even closer together. I once read that a key part of kit to take is a photo album, and I would agree whole heartedly, being able to flick through pics of my children and Judy is fabulous. Obviously, I miss the physical contact, but that's my bloody fault for leaving, so I can't get upset about that.

I woke early, showered, dressed and packed and then realised I had lost my passport!

I couldn't beleive it, I've rarely misplaced things before, and now in the middle of Africa I lose the most important document I have. Falls - majestic
Falls - majestic
I looked everywhere to no avail and then mentally re-scheduled my trip; cancelling my flight to Vic Falls that day, to give me a day to find it or get a replacement. Ureka, one of the staff had found it at the registration desk and locked it away - I was convinced I'd put it in my rear pocket after registering; oh how I'm becoming absent minded and it's not because of drink.

The hop from Harare to Victoria Falls was just 1.5hours on a comfortable twin prop plane. I was met at the airport and taken direct to Backpackers lodge, a pleasant, quiet place with everthing a backpacker would need for a great stay; pool table, plunge pool, tree house, bar, kitchen, and taxi service to falls, town or airport,

Dennis, the owner, does an intro chat to all new guests, chatting about secuity (animals and locals), water, money exchange, meals and facilities, and adds a whole speel on which excursions to book up on - he freely admits to making money from the bookings, and in reality you might as well book with him as opposed to another less reputable operator, but there was a bit too much of a push for my liking. I only came to see the falls, other activities would be left for other destianions along the way.

While checking in I got chatting to Phil, and exe RAF engineer, who had just finished a 3 month stint in South Africa on animal conservation duties, and was now heading up to Egypt to meet up with his brother.

We decided to walk into town, to get some groceries, a beer, and have a look around. Falls - powerful
Falls - powerful
Having followed a group of tourists we found ourselves in an outdoor market of some 30 stands all selling pretty much the same toot. The speel these guys gave was the same at every stand; "nice gifts", "give you good price", "what do you like?", "tell me what you like and I give you good price", then when I explained I had no money until tomorrow, when I'd come back and buy - "I like your shoes, can we trade with your shoes", or shirt or socks or the apple I had in my hand.... by the 30th trader I'd had enough, I wouldn't be going back, and yet if they had eased up, I probably would have done.

I had signed up for a sunset cruise; I mistakenly thought it was a trip that would take me close to the falls, but instead it went along the Zambezi, stopping at intervals to view hippo, or wild birds. I guess we ended up about 3 km from the falls, apparently any closer and the current would drag us upto and down. The boat (one of about 50) I was on, was full of French tourists, it really wasn't my scene, but drinks and food were included for the 25USD fee, and it wasn't a bad sunset.

The next day with my flight to J'burg at 2.00pm, I needed to get up early to visit the falls. I paid my 20USD (all foreigners have to pay for everything and anything in foreign currency) and entered the falls park. I was impressed and excited. The pathways were well maintained, and it was litter free and well maintained.

The roar of water, got louder and then I turned a corner went down some steps and there it was. Falls in full flow
Falls in full flow
Nothing had prepared me for the awsome power and magnitude of the falls, it seemed there was enough water falling over just the first fall, for the whole world to drink from for a year. The force of the water hitting the bottom shot spray 200 feet above ground level, obscuring large portions of the falls from view. Footpaths run all around the opposite bank facing the falls. At certain points, paths veer off closer to the edge giving better viewing, and a bloody good soaking from the spray. Awsome.

At one of these viewing posiions I saw the funniest sight I have possibly ever seen, it had me laughing for the rest of the day. Now I know the far east peoples have the latest and greatest gadgets, clothes and accessories, and I know many people prefer to wrap up when visiting the falls (my preference was to get absolutely soaked), but this guy (Far East tourist) turned up in a WET SUIT! I kid you not, a wet suit complete with booties. But worse still, bright tourqoise trousers matching boots and canary yellow top. Now maybe I was wrong, maybe it had nothing to do with getting wet, maybe he'd heard that aids was in 70% of the population and he was actually wearing a new fangled condom. That might have explained why he was also wearing a see through cagoule, ensuring he get his wet suit, wet!

Everyone should get to see the falls at some point in their lives, they are truly a wonder of nature, and it was nice to see the park so well cared for. Had I had more time I would have taken to the air to fly over the falls and I particularly fancied a flight in a tiger moth - I'll have to save that 'til next time.

I have had a wonderful time in Zimbabwe and I would definitely like to visit again, so until next time; Adios Zimbabwe.

Next stop Hong Kong with a nights transit stopover in J'burg.
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