I couldn't quite understand peoples quiet concern when I mentioned I was travelling to Zimbabwe as part of my world trip.
Well ignorance can be a wonderful thing, and Zimbabwe was on my list of places because I knew old BNI colleagues in the capital Harare, and I wanted to see Victoria Falls. I had all but forgotten that just a few years ago Zimbabwe was a country in strife, with white farmers either being herded out or eradicated, and shootings, queues for supplies, and tribal confrontation, a daily event. Zimbabwe is still a country in crisis, and had I dwelled on this factor too much and not blissfully gone ahead a booked a horse safari with Varden Safaris (www.vardensafaris.co.zw), I would have missed out on probabaly one of the greatest adventures of my life.
Having flown from Cairo overnight on three different fights, I arrived in Harare tired but upbeat and excited. Having duly completed my immigration papers and handed over $30 dollars I was told the cost of visa centryt for British passport holders was actually $55. I didn't have it in cash, and they don't take Visa! The guys in Egypt wanted me to buy egyptian pounds then convert it to Dollars, and I couldn't be bothered, so now I was stuck. The option was to get a connecting flight out of Harare or beg, borrow or stael. Fortunately, two Canadian ladies, on their way to find an orphanage to sponsor, overheard my plight and came to my rescue, thank you XXXXXX and XXXXXX and if anyone wants to donate money to their charity contact them here.
Hurdle one over and onto the next; customs control. Two burley ladies, stopped me and asked me to open my small rucksack. They were particularly interested in my now highly trusty acer travelmate notebook. They were suspicious that it was a gift for someone, and therefore needed confiscating or duty being paid on it. I wasn't about to have my notebook taken, it was now an essenial part of my kit; used to write this log, collect and send my emails when I can, and probably most importantly a photo album of my children and Judy, all of whom I was missing desperately. I turned it on and logged in, convincing the officials that it was mine and very much in use, I was allowed through.
Sue, Varden Safaris administrator, met me and we headed off on the 2 hour journey north to base camp at 'Tree Tops' in the Zimbabwian bush, stopping for petrol en route was an experience as huge wads of notes were handed over just for a tank full. I was pleasantly surprised to find Harare was made up wide pretty tree lined avenues, and although obviously now unkempt it showed what a thriving and wealthy city it must have once been.
We passed many people either waiting for buses or walking, it being a holiday, most were likely off visiting relatives in neighbouring villages or Harare itself. All moved aside for the truck on the tarmacadam road and many waved. We also passed through several road blocks and about half an hour from tree tops we turned off the the relatively fast road onto a track - this was real tough terrain and only for 4x4's or four legged animals, but I was beginning to be really taken with the sheer beauty of the place.
We arrived at Kopje Tops Lodge (Tree Tops), Mavuradonha, aptly named because of the ranches magnificant tree house tucked away in a wooded area, it's roof peaking over the highest of the trees and providing; lounge, dining and kitchen areas as well as a fabulous roof top viewing gallery. I was warmly welcomed by my hosts James and Janine Varden, and introduced to the other guests (two really nice local families) also staying at the ranch, and we ate and drank heartily, whilst overlooking the most magnificant countryside I have ever seen.
The ranch was set out in four distinct sections; the tree house and accomodation area, which comprised oval shaped brick and mud built thatched huts doted amongst the trees, the paddock, tack and store rooms out front, the overnight paddock some 500 yards away and the staff quarters, a small hut village one end of the paddock. It was idyllic. The guest huts were so positioned within the woodland, that one couldn't see the other, and there was a complete feeling of solitude and tranquility. There was no electricity, or western style luxuries, but the huts whilst spartan were exremely comfortable, spacious, and had he necessary essentials to help you feel part of the bush life without discomfort. My hut had a large exremely comfortable double bed, separate shower room with sink and western style flushing toilet. There was plenty of hot water fed from a hidden tank built into an ingenious chimney structure heated by a log fire beneath. There really was nothing else you could need, it was perfect.
At night the wide double doors and windows of the hut remained open (optional), and this added to the feeling of being in the wild. Most of the horses were allowed to run free at night, and many animals would pass through the camp. My first night, I lay awake for about five minutes pondering how best to make my escape from a hungry lion if it entered my hut, but eventually figured it would prefer the lean meat of an antelope to the fat of this white man, and I slept like a log.
James and Janine are the perfect hosts, and completely at home in their environment and with nature.
Janine, a former Australian 'Jillaroo' and National zoo keeper loves her horses and the care and love they receive is second to none. Many of the horses are ex polo, or discarded, but here; are happy and contented and of the 40+ horses Varden currently have there is a horse to suit every ability, style and size of rider, and with Janine's skill and experience and intimate knowledge of her horses, rider and horse are perfectly matched.
James a Zimbabwian, was always going to work in the wild, as a kid he was most content studying birds nests and migratary patterns, and totally at home roaming the bush preferring that to the streets of Harare, and is now one of the most respected and renowned of all Zimbabwian guides - he's a bloody nice guy to cap it all as well. What absolute luck that I had come accross Varden Safaris, I was about to have one of the most memorable times of my life.
On the safety front and political arena, I have been met with nothing but sincere kindness, politeness and mutual respect and have not once found myself in any difficult situations. Yes there are issues here, but Zimbabwe is a magical country with wonderful peoples, and I would urge anyone thinking about holidaying in Africa to seriously consider Zimbabwe, and especially Varden Safaris - I would love to come back with Judy and the kids if the opportunity arose, and I am sure I will.
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