Cu Chi - tunnels
Trip Start
Feb 17, 2007
1
15
53
Trip End
Sep 06, 2008
Cu Chi,
Vietnam
Sunday, June 3, 2007
How did America lose the war? Tunnels! It's an over-simplification, of course. And probably only slightly true. But after a visit to Cu Chi, the lightbulb upstairs finally went on. For me, it's a microcosm of the war. What I learned about was the ingenuity, resourcefullness and determination of the Vietnamese.
A brief background. The North Vietnamese wanted to send supplies to their army in the south. So they carried them through the mountains along the Western border, known as the Ho Chi Minh trail. The mountain range ended about 60 kilometers short of Saigon. So the munitions were hid in holes. Eventually, they connected and extended to over 250 kilometers. The tunnels were so elaborate that families lived underground for months at a time.
One of the American bases was placed right on top of Cu Chi. Men and machinery were mysteriously being ambushed. After three months, the Americans figured it out. They started an intense aerial bombardment of the Cu Chi tunnel system. In spite of several strategic changes, though, the tunnels survived.
One example. The original tunnels were approximately 80 centimeters (31 inches) in diameter. Suitable for a Vietnamese carrying only a rifle, knife and bag of rice. But problematic for most American soldiers in full combat gear. So dogs were trained to search the tunnels. The Vietnamese camoflagued their scent with Western toiletries and clothing. This is one of the G-rated adaptations suitable for families. Most were pretty gruesome. I saw several different traps armed with merely bamboo/metal spikes that would painfully disable a soldier. Just looking at them would discourage me from proceeding any further in the jungle.
The Vietnamese ingenuity, resourcefulness and determination can be understood militarily at Cu Chi. But the same plays out in regular life too. Some of the lowest-priced real estate here is along the rivers. Buildings are regularly flooded during the rainy season. To adapt, Vietnamese build their homes on stilts with whatever materials are available. I've seen sheet metal, tree branches and bamboo. They also maintain small boats to ensure transportation. In the typhoon areas, sandbags are put on roofs to keep them from flying away.
Other countries have wanted to occupy Vietnam for 2,000 years. It's strategic location was appealing to the Chinese, Mongols, French, Japanese and Americans. To overcome so many foreign interests over such a long time requires a special resolve.
Next, Dalat
Eric
