Phnom Pehn
Trip Start
Feb 17, 2007
1
3
53
Trip End
Sep 06, 2008
Phnom Penh,
Cambodia
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Greetings from Cambodia! It took three trips to Asia for me to find this country and now I understand why...SPIDERS!! My subconscious was protecting me. One of the culinary specialties of Cambodia are deep-fried, Big Black spiders. I was definitely on the defensive during my first trip here for training. But when I returned to lead my own group, I warmed up to the Khmer people - one of the most sincere and kindest-hearted ethnic groups I've ever met.
"Same-same but different" is the most overused cliche in Asia. But also the best description I can give Cambodia. At first glance, the street life looks similar to Vietnam and neighboring countries. But the culture is entirely different. Many of my passengers are surprised at the extent.
Walking along the streets and through markets, I notice two extremes. One is the large amount of beggars. (Presumably homeless) children and disabled adults use every tool to pull at your heart strings. For many first time visitors, it's a disturbing sight that can be difficult to walk past. Until, that is, you learn that employment and vocational training are easily obtainable here. Most panhandlers choose that lifestyle instead of self-reliant one that's really quite feasible.
The second thing I notice are how polite the Khmer people are. Genuine smiles are abundant after a simple "sous-sah-day" greeting. Several times, a Khmer has helped me out while refusing anything more than a 'thank you' in return. Altruism was a bit of a surprise for me after being conditioned to grease palms. The Khmer also appear a bit reserved. I sense that behind the smiles there's still pain from the past.
A brief background: During the Pol Pot regime, the Khmer Rouge killed an estimated 2 million Cambodians. The key point is that most of them were from the same generation, aged 15-30 during the late 70's. My interpretation is that two things were lost. One, a loss of culture. Many traditions stopped being passed on from one generation to the next. And two, leadership disappeared. Many of the youth that survived grew up without being able to rely on their family or government for direction.
So Cambodia is still trying to pull itself up by the bootstraps. The strong sense of nationalism and family that has driven Vietnam into the future isn't quite the same here. But tourism is helping.
A visit to Cheong Ek (the Killing Fields) can be disturbing for some. Tuol Sleng (the detention and torture center) can be horrifying. It's easy to see why some people take a pass on these sights. But for those who can stomach the experience, they gain a deeper understanding of the Khmer today.
Cambodia is now at the top of my Must See list. That's where you'll find me during my next extended break. Most likely, I'll be absorbing the ambience of Siem Reap or trekking on an elephant in the remote, northeast mountains. The demeanor of the Khmer people is so endearing I will gladly brave big black spiders and 100+ degree heat.
Next, Ton Le Sap Lake.
Oh koon chah ron,
Eric
