Water Way to Spend a Wednesday (Groan)

Trip Start Nov 05, 2006
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Hungary  ,
Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Wednesday was the day I'd set aside for the legendary Hungarian baths experience. I'd originally planned to visit the Gellert Baths in Buda, having seen it's impressive architecture in guide book photos. My new Dutch friend from the hostel, Nicolien, also wanted to go to the baths, so we decided to go together. She'd already picked out the Szechenyi baths, with it's neo-baroque architecture (and outdoor pools) and as it was cheaper, I didn't argue. Nicolien had walked to the Varosliget (City Park, location of the baths) the previous day and knew how far it was, so we ventured onto the subway. At our destination stop we were accosted by two "ticket inspectors" who claimed we had the wrong tickets and tried to fine us 12,000 forint. (around £40) We argued and claimed we had no money. They didn't believe us, saying as we were tourists we were clearly carrying money with us. They obviously go straight for the tourists, as it's a tourist spot. One of them phoned the police, allegedly, but then did a "deal" with us - 6000 forint for the both of us. We ended up giving him a total of 2000 forint, begrudgingly, which he then pocketed, and kindly gave us return tickets. We later found out that the fine should have maybe been around 3000 forint each so I see it as a coup that we got away with paying a third of the real fine, even though we are dubious as to whether they were real inspectors. They were dressed accordingly, and everyone else showed them tickets, so it's possible I guess. But it seems I'm making quite a name for myself as an Eastern Europe public transport criminal. Hehehe.
After this encounter, we certainly needed to relax! We booked massages, and were given appointment times of 1.40pm. We had entered the baths at around 11am, and you get a partial refund if you leave within 2 hours.... another scam?! The baths were a mixture of indoor and outdoor pools, all at varying temperatures. We started in a indoor healing thermal bath, all naturally hot from the hot springs water. Our companions were mostly old, hugely obese Hungarians, inappropriately dressed in various bikinis and skimpy Speedos. Horrific. In order to heal our eyes, we made a speedy exit to the outdoor pools. There are three pools outdoors, surrounded by mustard yellow castle like buildings. The middle pool is reserved for proper swimming, so we avoided this. The first pool contained fountains, a whirlpool and a jacuzzi centre piece. The jacuzzi alternated with the whirlpool where jets of water propelled you round in a circle. Several attempts to leave were unsuccessful, as the current was so strong!
The third pool was a huge thermal one, so hot that signs surrounded it advising not to spend more than 20 minutes bathing in it. These were lost on the old men playing chess in the pool. Seriously. You can play if you bring your own chess pool. To the baths. Seriously. Surreal...I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my eyes.
Another new experience for me was the sauna, an experience I'd missed out on in Finland. I tried out the aromotherapy sauna at 55-60 degrees. I can only liken it to being in Las Vegas in the summer. I'm feeling sweaty just typing this.

We rotated pools until the massage - I'd booked a 20 minute aromatherapy massage and the guy spent a lot of that time massaging my legs, which was weird. But otherwise, it was super relaxing, and super cheap at 2800 forints, a fraction of what I'd pay at home for the same treatment at a spa. In all, we spent over 4 hours at the baths. I have never ever spent so much of a day immersed in water in my life. It was truly relaxing though, and a true Hungarian experience that I'll never forget.

Nicolien had to leave for Vienna that evening, and with Joszef and Margarita having already left, I was alone for the evening. As I dined outdoors at the pizza place we spent the previous couple of nights at, (and in a bonus moment got half a pizza free of charge) this made me appreciate that much more how their company made my experience in Budapest so much more fun than it would have been without them.
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