Luxury bath in Lusaka
Trip Start
Sep 08, 2003
1
35
37
Trip End
Ongoing
Lusaka,
Zambia
Sunday, March 14, 2004
At 5.30am that morning when my alarm had sounded in my little tin hut at Usa River I hasn't quite visualized arriving in Lusaka, the capital of Zambia quite like this. I was more worried that the driver, Abel who I had booked through the school would turn up. We had agreed on the price of 15,000 shillings to take me to the airport a few weeks ago, but late in the evening before I was due to depart the had sent a message demanding 30,000! He new it would then be too late for me to ask anyone else. I was furious - 'Mzungued' by the very school I had put so much effort into!
I didn't say anything on the drive to the airport, just watched the sun come up behind Mount Kilimanjaro, on arrival I showed Abel the original documentation that stated 15,000. I hadn't wanted a scene before - in case he decided to dump me miles from the airport! I explained I had been at the school for 6 months, worked hard and kept my agreement with them - I expected him to keep his! Phew! Who was this scary mzungu I had turned into! - I got to pay the correct amount!
The tiny 'Precision Air' plane left Kilimanjaro airport, and I sat back in my seat relieved all the stress was over. I could see the sun shining on Kilimanjaro, the snow glistening on the top. I wondered who was stood on the top at that moment. The hard work of 4 days climb probably made the sight more awe-inspiring for them, then seeing it 3 minutes after takeoff. I had given myself the choice of climbing Kili or more traveling -but the expensive Tanzanian Park Fees made climbing Kili so expensive, a 6 or 7 day climb would be 600 or 700 dollars - with a tip and climbing gear hire on top. I had worked out I could see Victoria Falls in Zambia and Zimbabwe, the deserts in Namibia and the city if Cape Town - a 3 week trip for the same price. Tough choice, both amazing experiences one of endurance and one of changing cultures. The chance to see more of African life won.
There were only 5 other passengers on board, all Tanzanian business men, who applauded the pilot as we landed at Nairobi. I climbed down the 4 steps to the runway and found a Kenya Airways official waiting for me. My plane had been a bit late and my 15minute transfer time to the next plane had caused concern and I was escorted across the runway to Gate 4 for the next flight. The other passengers were already seated and the 'emergency routine' had already begun. I queried my rucksack also making it across the runway and was reassured all was being taken care of. I had such a bad feeling - Kenya and I are just not that compatible. On my first visit a panga attack, on my second I was detained for questioning at the boarder - what would my third visit bring? As I looked out the plane window marveling at how much greener Zambia was - I already new what as coming next!
Zambia airport was impressive compared to East African Standards. Fancy waterfalls, clean marble floor, viewing gallery and a record 30second visa application! I had prepared myself for a good hour or two to get a visa, the usual pushing and shoving at the counter that had occurred on previous trips. (The 30seconds included a slight hiccup - my travel book stated $50 for the visa - apparently it has always been $56! Which left me struggling to decide which stash of dollars would be less obvious to invade - bra, socks, belt? The coulter girl was laughing as I emerged after a bit of fumbling with the extra 6 dollars requested!)
Passport stamped for the 100th time I stepped through the arch to stare at the circular conveyor belt bringing luggage from the plane. 40 minutes later I was still staring at it - watching a child's pram and a huge black suitcase go round and round. The other passengers had long since disappeared through customs, even the lovely chap who had offered to get me a trolley for my bag that 'must come soon!' I was more annoyed with my reaction; I had already prepared my self for this, and had hoped to toughen up while in Africa. I was still blinking tears as I tried to find an official, scolding myself - it was only a bag!! Two hours later I was still in Kenya Airways office, trying to explain to the official that I was a tourist so didn't have a number for where I was staying, and was worried as I traveling on to Livingston the next day. We were both giggling later as I tried to give him my email address for his report and he couldn't find the '@' key on his new computer! I kept reminding myself- this is Africa - the UK would struggle with a 15minute changeover! - no wonder my bag didn't make it!
In the airport bar I tried to recapture some of my earlier excitement about the day. I was about to meet Angela, the first friend from home I had seen in 6 months. I couldn't wait to see her. I had seen friends and families of other volunteers arrive in Arusha, and had felt so envious as they were shown around, visiting the school, their fathers taking the kids out for a game of football. Every visitor said the same - no matter how hard someone tries to describe it, arriving there isn't what you expect.
Meeting Angela was the next best thing - to explore a bit of Africa new to both of us. To have someone at home who could picture all the same scenes, to laugh and reminisce with when I got home. I really appreciated her coming here, a huge effort to come such a long way. I knew she would be tired from her flight - I was tired from my sort one! - I was falling asleep in the bar over a cheese toasty when I heard the tannoy announce that her flight was early! I jumped up grabbing my hand luggage (only briefly noting it was now my only luggage!) I dashed outside to the gallery. Hearing the roar of the plane approaching I was jumping up and down in excitement. 20minutes later I had stopped hopping about quite so much as I had watched everyone get off the plane except Angela! My dads words came back to haunt me - he had rung the previous evening and asked if Angela and I had a contingency plan for if we missed each other. Damn! Why are parents always right!! Now what was I going to do! Just as my jumping about had reduced to a lift onto tiptoes and back down, I saw some more people emerge; there had been a hold up and the people in the rear of the plane had been stuck there! Angela later told me she could see this little figure dressed in trademark all black, cropped trousers and vest top. Beaming and waving as soon as I saw her.
Off to the hostel with Max the taxi driver. Ku-Omboka Hostel was a pleasant place; a little way from town, 3 rooms, bar and lounge area. A tip for future travelers if you obtain a fax from any hostel or hotel detailing that your stay in Zambia is purely for tourism you are exempt from paying a visa - a saving of 56 dollars!! Would have been worth knowing, but is unfortunately not well advertised - until you arrive in the country!
After the 'toothbrush' excursion my only other essential for the evening along with a prayer that my bag would return the next day - was a beer in the bar! 6months worth of gossip followed as Angela and I caught up on all that had happened to each of us. Zambia's specialty beer was 'Mosi beer' the slogan on the bottle sang 'the drink of life' - and reminded me to put my own 'mosi' net up! I didn't want to be anyone's drink that night!!! Angela commented that the airport should bring my bag to me the next day as they had lost it. In England that would have been my first thought too. I realized then I had got used to African way of life. Angela had already noted that I now walked slower and looked around more, and now with the airport; I knew they had no facility for delivering luggage - I would have to make the trip back to the 'out of town' airport and collect it....... If it arrived!
The next morning we walked around the town, during which Angela exclaimed; 'phew! It's hot!' and removed her sweatshirt. I however was feeling the chill; Lusaka is much colder than Arusha and put a second jumper on! We both laughed at the absurdity pf our new climate. I was smiling and enjoying Angela's company and that morning I had had my first real (no-bucket required!) B-A-T-H!!! Angela had laughed when I was overjoyed to see the large porcelain tub - it made the day!
And after my third call to the airport - good news! 'Was a dusty, dirty, well traveled, navy blue rucksack mine by any chance?'
