Chengdu Hotels
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Buddhas and Pandas
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(Em here)
Yesterday we went to Le Shan about 110km south of Chengdu by bus which is the site of one of the biggest buddhas carved into the side of cliff at the intersection of 3 rivers. Was amazing and glad that we decided to alter our trip to come here (was never intending to do Chengdu but go to Guilin instead decided not to go to Guilin as scenery v similar in Halong Bay, Vietnam). On arrival in Le Shan we got completely different information from each person we asked (which was also different to our Rough Guide) about how to get to the centre of town (can get bus 1 or 13 but have to walk a bit) but fortunately an local English student training to be a teacher befriended us and took us into town and found us the ferry terminal. We offered to buy him a drink but he wouldn't let us! It is low season now so very few boats are running from Le Shan to Dafo (where the Buddha is) but got a local ferry for about 10 Yuan (approx 80p) which goes across the 3 rivers and past the Buddha where you get the best view and idea of its size. Was phenomenal although I was most impressed by the staircases down the side which looked like little tunnels. At the other end you walk through a series of temples, scented gardens and across a river with a beautiful Chinese bridge (like the sort on willow pattern!) with very few tourists (who seem to be doing it from the opposite direction later in the day and are mainly Chinese). Buddha itself was partly carved as a result of the river having dangerous currents and they wanted to slow it down by throwing the rubble into it.
After a couple of hours here got the bus #13 at the other end back to the main bus terminal and then onto Chengdu for dinner at Thai Fiesta (yes a Thai restaurant - sampling the local cuisine as ever). Had a great meal for not a lot of money as usual and back to the hostel to enjoy the cold room. It is v cold and damp here and actually feels worse than Russia did! Today got up early again (6.30am) and got trip organised by hostel to Chengdu Panda Reserve which is a breeding centre. You have to get there early as after 10am the pandas just pass out for the rest of the day apparently. Saw about 15 giant pandas munching there way through bamboo and about the same number of red ones (smaller with tails a bit like racoons). Resisted the temptation to spend 40 quid to have our picture taken with a giant panda. Saw an interesting video about how they live and breed at the centre which will bore you with now. Pandas eat about 30-40kg of bamboo a day but used to be carnivorous. They get very little nutrition or energy from bamboo hence don't do very much for the rest of the day. Women can only conceive for 4 days a year and apparently can't be bothered to have intercourse most of the time so have to have IVF (was some very interesting machinery which won't go into!!)
After panda place went back into Chengdu to then get a bus to Huanglongxi (is the place where they filmed Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (more traditional Chinese village/temples). Got to the southern bus terminal to be told there were no direct buses (think it was cost we were a bit late) but then found out there was a local bus to Huang (I think) and then got another bus from there. Needless to say was another interesting trip with the locals and stopped every few minutes to let people on/off. Met a local boy who was about 15 and spoke quite good English and liked Coldplay so he was a hit with us! He pointed out his 'village' on the way which he told me that only 30,000 people live in - sums up China really for me! When we eventually arrived we went for a wander down the riverside to find a restaurant to sample the local delicacy douha which are deep fried little fish or prawns. Found a little place where some Chinese were having tea and playing Mah jong (is a Chinese tourist site so saw no westerners) and through sign language ordered what we thought was one portion of fish and some tea. We got 1kg of fish (it turns out that when you order seafood it should always be in grams - should read my book in future). Fish were good although they had a local herb/spice in them that made the whole of your mouth and tongue go numb and Dave also reckons they were hallucinogenic (!) Then found the temple sight where the film was based which was beautiful with ancient banyan trees supported by dragon pillars, temples, etc. For the second time felt we had hit on the China we had anticipated on seeing (although spose its a bit like people coming to England and expecting to see cobbled streets paved with gold everywhere).
Managed to get direct bus home and planned on walking through Chengdu back to our hostel via the shops but my knee (not my bad one!) has been playing up think I have pulled a tendon or something. Instead hobbled around a bit and then got the local bus home. At the hostel asked what they would recommend as didn't really want to go the hospital. They wrote something down and Dave went to the pharmacy (I was slightly anxious what he was going to come back with as you can imagine) and he brough back a huge plaster which had some herbs in and some yellow liquid you put on. Put it on my knee which went numb after a while - seems to be some sort of relaxant which certainly helped!
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