Near Jenner, California.
Trip Start
Apr 12, 1992
1
26
65
Trip End
Jun 15, 1992
Jenner,
California,
United States
Friday, May 8, 1992
5-7-92
Near Jenner, California
Mild, overcast
Morningbrought heavy fog. When I headed west along the bay front the Golden Gate bridge was still partly obscured in the fog. I crossed to the north side of the bay. California-1 took me to Mill Valley, where I missed a turn, and suddenly I was lost, but not in a bad way. I knew I was east of the highway and following any roads heading west would get me back on track
92.467.Church of The Assumption, Tomales, CA.
. The unplanned visits to Tiburon, Novato, and Point Reyes Station were pleasant. I saw an area I would not have seen otherwise. The north shore of the Bay is so beautiful that becoming lost was my good fortune.Eventually I rejoined California-1. Passage through Marshall, Tomales, and Valley Ford led to Bodega (Warehouse) Bay, where a deep,protected harbor is home port to a large fleet of private and commercial fishing vessels. Bodega Bay is situated at the mount of Tomales Bay, which covers about15 miles along a length of the San Andreas Fault Zone. The Fault Zone forms a natural boundary between the Continental coast-line and Point Reyes Peninsula. The location is famed as the place where, in 1579. Sir Francis Drake beached his ship, the Golden Hind, to make repairs. He was welcomed into a sheltered inlet on the south coast of the bay by groups of Miwok Indians.
Naturally, when departing after enjoying the Miwok's hospitality, Sir Francis rewarded them with a brass plate proclaiming Queen Elizabeth's reign over the land and its people. He en\even thoughtfully attached it to s post sunk firmly in the ground. But the British never followed up on the claim. Two hundred years later the Spanish arrived. They congregated a few miles south, along the south side of San Francisco Bay.
Geologists have identified rock strata on the rugged Point Reyes headlands coast which match strata in the Tehachapi Mountains 310 Miles to the south, providing conclusive evidence of the sliding movement of the two tectonic plates. For millions of years countless earthquakes were born from these great land masses grinding together
92.468.Tomales, CA.
. Stress lines extend 200 to 300 miles deep into the earth's crust. It has been verified that Point Reyes Peninsula suddenly moved almost 20 feet north-east during the great San Francisco quake of 1906.Inland the brushy flatlands of Point Reyes are home to a number of cattle ranches, beef and dairy. In 1962 Congress dedicated the area, in danger of becoming a golf course, as a National Seashore, in order to preserve the delicate ecology and cultural history that still remained.
One of these, Point Reyes lighthouse, clings to one of the most notorious hazards to navigation on the Pacific coast. Access to the lighthouse from landward is 300 steps down a sheer granite cliff. Contrary to standard custom the Point ReyesLight is situated as close to the water as possible. The area produces such heavy fog that a light atop the shore line would not be at all visible from the water. More than 40 shipwrecks are known to have occurred along this coast.
Warning signs posted along the beaches proclaim the dangers awaiting careless visitors.
"HIGH TIDE: Check the tide tables before walking on the beaches
92.469.Point Reyes, CA.
. Rising water can trap you against a cliff with no possibility of escape.""Heavy Surf: The pounding surf and rip currents are treacherous. Stay away from the water."
"Steep Cliffs: The cliffs are likely to crumble and slide. Climbing on them or walking near the edge invites catastrophe. Because of falling rocks,walking below cliffs is dangerous. Keep away!"
The coastal area just north of Bodega Bay is unlike any other part of California. It is rolling hills, green with lush grass, herds of dairy cattle and sheep, and tiny, clean, attractive towns. Here and there you pass through groves of eucalyptus trees which fill the air with a pleasant, distinctive odor. Without doubt California enjoys the most varied topography, weather,plant and animal species, and life styles of any state in the Union. There is something here for everyone. If they ever solve the problems with the indigent poor and air pollution in and around the large cities it will truly be a heaven on earth, even considering the dangers from frequent earthquakes and mud slides.
Early evening I called The Bear
92.470.Bodega Bay, CA.
. After the conversation ended I still wasn't ready to settle for the night so I continued north on California-1, moving slowly and enjoying the ocean views from atop sheer granite cliffs. I noticed that every turn-off or overlook had signs prohibiting vans or overnight camping. There are a multitude of state parks with campgrounds in the area. I pulled into several to look around with the thought of remaining in one. They charge $19.00 for overnight parking and $5.00 for day use. It seems incredible that the state of California would legislate to curtail money-spending visitors from overnight parking, except in designated areas, for which there is a $19.00 charge. Meanwhile people in the cities sleep, eat, get drunk, have sex, and defecate wherever they wish. for free.I drifted farther up the highway until I spotted a flat area by the road. It was not posted. I parked there, hoping I didn't have trouble from any police types. Immediately below me, down a steep hill was a campground filled with largeRV's. I decided if I was evicted from this spot I'd simply drive till I come to another. Maybe some farmer would allow me to park near his barn for the night. Or maybe his daughter would share her bed. We'll see.
A guy on a bicycle just went by pumping hard to make it up the grade
92.471.Bodega Bay, CA.
. There have been a number of people, including a few women, who appear to be traveling across country on bikes. They have their belongings strapped onto the bike, usually a knapsack on both sides of the rear wheel. They carry an aura of being so alone and self-sufficient. I have admiration and a tinge of envy for anyone who can travel across the country, under his/her own power, carrying everything needed.The slow pace and closer affinity with the countryside, the increased awareness of weather, odors, and sounds has to provide a unique experience. It is much different from riding along in a temperature controlled steel cocoon. Riding a motorcycle affords some of the feeling of being one with the elements, however a bicycle more closely approximates walking, which would be the ideal way to travel, were time and stamina not such big factors....
It's hard to figure. This part of California is beautiful, yet sparsely populated. There is little traffic on the highway beside me. Restaurants and stores are scarce. It is an area not yet suffering from over-development.
AM radio 610 from San Francisco has been a lot of company lately
92.472.Bodega Bay, CA.
. I first started picking up their signals in Arizona. They play old tunes from the 40s and 50s, a lot of old Hit Parade type music. They have few interruptions for commercials. They just played "Baby Won't You Please Come Home" Their format is to play 5 or 6 songs and then break for station identification and commercials. They use no screaming voices or special effects, just straight spoken announcements.Once upon a time hitching a ride was a common practice. My first travels around the South were achieved by standing alongside the road with my thumb pointing. Generally it wasn't long before someone would stop, take me down the road, maybe 10 miles, maybe 300. I met some very nice people, some very interesting people, and a few weirdos.
Later, after acquiring my own transportation, and remembering all the kindness extended to me, I rarely failed to stop when I saw a thumb up. Over the years it became unsafe to give strangers a lift. Consequently, now I almost never pick up anyone on main roads. I miss not being able to offer a ride to some sociable person and enjoy their company.
An official looking sign posted a few yards from where I am parked reads,
Leaving Apple Maggot Quarantine Area.
No Back Yard Apples Beyond This Point
Now what the heck does that mean? Are back yard apples not allowed to go any farther, of are there no back yard apples to be found farther on? And when did apples learn to read? And if they can read why would they obey a roadside sign? Do the same restrictions not apply to front yard apples?
