Port Townsend, Washington.
Trip Start
Apr 12, 1992
1
41
65
Trip End
Jun 15, 1992
Port Townsend,
Washington,
United States
Friday, May 22, 1992
5-22-92
Port Townsend, Washington
Cool, clear, no wind
We woke to a cool, still, clear day-just about perfect-and headed back toward Tacoma. The plan was to go up the west side of Puget Sound toward Mt. Olympus. On the way we decided to detour into the south side of Mount Ranier. We checked in at Longmire Visitor Center and commenced the 3000' climb to Paradise Visitor Center
92.584.Mt. St. Helen.
. We drove alongside and frequently crossed the graveled creeks that carry melted run-off from the mountain-top glaciers. On occasion the brilliance of the white ice covering the mountainside flashed briefly through the trees. It was a rare day. The ancient 14,410' volcanic peak stood starkly against the sky, clear of any cloud blanket. We enjoyed brilliantly clear views of the glacier fields. From our vantage point we looked almost straight up Nisqually glacier to Gibralter Rock at 12,660 feet elevation. A little to the left Krautz and Tahoma Glaciers creep down from Columbia Crest, which remains dormant after 2,000 years.Several backpackers were taking advantage of the perfect weather to hike up the mountainside. As they trooped off, we stood on the snow, and soaked up the sun's warmth. We made sandwiches, while a bird, probably a thrasher,kept moving closer. Suddenly he flew in and grabbed a piece of bread from Helen's hand. Soon, with very little coaxing, he was landing on her hand to take bits of bread and meat from her fingers.
After a while we left, driving through Elbe to Parkland and Tacoma up the Sound to Bremerton.
Bremerton is the site of a Navy shipyard
92.593.The Bear and Me, Mount Ranier.
. Several U.S. destroyers and a small aircraft carrier were in the shipyard for repairs. As you would expect, the town was very busy, with congested streets, many sailors and many taverns. Navy towns must all have this in common. Pensacola, Florida and Newport, Virginia are similar.We moved north up to Port Townsend, where we checked into a very nice motel. It sits near the water on the rock shoreline of the harbor. Just a few feet from our room there was a picnic table, an ideal place to snack and have a cup of coffee.
That evening we went uptown to the El Sarape restaurant where we enjoyed a huge Mexican seafood dinner. After dinner we had drinks at a nearby tavern. We walked about and explored the two streets that make up downtown. PortTownsend is one of the last seaports in the country to retain a Victorian flavor.
In the 1880's schooners, barks, all craft carrying freight from the orient to the Pacific Northwest had to put in here to clear through customs. Maritime traffic through this port was exceeded only by the port of New York.
Then the Union Pacific Railway Company started operations. Railroad officials decided to end the track of the new continental railroad at nearby Olympia. Port Townsend's population dwindled, dropping from 9,000 to 2,000. It remained a backwater until the 1960's when it was "rediscovered" by artist types. Old buildings and homes were lovingly restored. By 1976, Port Townsend had been designated a National Historic District.
92.595.Port Townsend.
Most of the buildings were constructed late in the nineteenth century. The architecture is uniquely Victorian, ornate and attractive when not overdone. Unfortunately, like so many other towns that have been restored in an attempt to revive a dead old central city, Port Townsend is over-loaded with artsy tourist establishments.
In some old towns the regular day-to-day commercial businesses remaining the old part of town. They co-exist side by side with tourist oriented establishments. The integration works fine and generates vital, live, bustling, interesting communities.
Unfortunately, some towns, like Port Townsend, the grocers, druggists, hardware stores, lawyers and doctors, the old economic standbys, moved out to new shopping centers in strip highway developments and office parks.
Specialty shops, art galleries, restaurants, bars, gift shops, etc., are all that are left to occupy the old area. Consequently downtown is filled with tourists and the people who cater to them. The special character of the town is diminished, a loss to tourists and locals alike. At first glance Port Townsend is very attractive, but its appeal almost ends there.
Back at the motel we watched the final broadcast of Johnny Carson's Tonight Show.
