Tromso: Not For the Trolls
Trip Start
Unknown
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Trip End
Ongoing
Tromsø, Troms, Norway
Friday, October 9, 2009
The weather has varied but remains moderate. This assumes that one does not mind the odd bit of rain. flurries of snow, a touch of wind and the refreshing nature of temperatures bordering on 0C. Going out on the open deck in shirt sleeves is for the stout of soul.
This craft has stopped at seven ports on each of the last three days. These have ranged from tiny Lofoten island stops to centres that are of considerable size
Harstad on a Tuesday
.Harstad is a city of 25,000 souls that is a central meeting place for the islands clustering around Hinnoy, Norway's largest island. Agriculture flourishes to the west and, with the reduction in herring stocks, the town has developed industries such as shipbuilding and maintenance,equipment for the shipping industry and all matters relating to oil exploration in the area.
Further north is Tromso, the capital of Arctic Norway and gateway to the Arctic Ocean. At 65,000 people, Tromso is quite remarkable. Considering its geography, Tromso is an oasis in a spartan landscape (to mix metaphors). It bills itself as the "Paris of the North". Various versions of how this nickname seems to have become imbedded in the mythology of Tromso. The most romantic seems to be that the fine women folk of the town wore finery that was the envy of the north, and every bit as fine as the fashions of Paris. But, pick your poison to continue on a theme.
Tromso is linked to the mainland by a well designed bridge measuring 1,016 metres. The volume of traffic on the bridge is such that a road tunnel has been built under the strait. Tromso has some really distinctive features, one of them being the Arctic Cathedral, just across the bridge from the landing point of the MS Nordkapp
OlHallen and the Mack Brewery: Tromso
. I walked across the bridge around the same time as a brief snowstorm pelted down snowflakes of a substantial size - and wet. Add to this a significant wind and the trip going to and coming from was an adventure. Thank Thor for Canuck winter clothing on this evening. Arriving at the cathedral with its colourful and illuminated windows, unique construction, the organ belting forth, a seven person choir performing in the loft and rather fetching lighting made me feel that I was one with my Maker...and perhaps I should stay a little while. However, other forces were calling.The haven beckoning in Tromso was OlHallen (the beer hall) and the Mack brewery. This drinking establishment proudly boosts of being the most northern brewery in the world. You just don't drift into Mack's since access is through a doorway that just sort of disappears downward and off the street. Best to be sober when entering since crawling out might be less of a burden. Going into Mack's is an absolute must if one wants to appreciate the historic relationship between alcohol, temperance, Nordic gall, struggles between town folk and the contradictions in Norwegian society. Mack's is a "let it all hang out" kind of place. The staff are welcoming and informative. I counted at least 10 different beers on tap, all of them some form of lager. When I asked as to why no ales, porters, bitters or stouts were on tap, the matter of fact answer was: "There is no demand so why waste good beer." And, good beer it is with distinctive malt and hop combinations
Tromso Library
. The Spesialol was my favorite. At 62 NOK (a king's ransom at 5.5 NOK to the $C), a sturdy pint was thrust across the bar. However, off license beer is not sold due to some Norge rule or law or tradition. I never did get an answer. So, it is off to the supermarket 100 metres down the street to purchase any of six varieties of Mack beer.Departing Tromso, the coastal express route is sheltered by islands. to the east, the country develops into one of Norway's most impressive mountain ranges - the Lyng Alps. It becomes apparent that nearly every building between here and Kirkenes is new - well, new as of post 1945. There is a similar theme in terms of design and structure for the housing with the understanding that boring paint colours for the exteriors must be contrary to the laws of nature. Expect a spectrum of lively paint combinations with red, blue, green and yellow being quite noticeable.
During the winter of 1944/45, when the German Army of the North was in full retreat, Hitler gave carte blanche to General Lothar Rendulic to lay ruin to all of northern Norway as far south as Lyngen Fjord. Consequently, just about dwelling between Lyngen and the Russian border was destroyed and the people forcibly evacuated. The destruction included chopping down or blowing up some 31,000 telephone poles, the burning of barns and feed stock and the wholesale slaughter of just about every farm animal
Tromso Arctic Cathedral In Its Splendor
. The locals who chose not to participate in the evacuation fled to the hills and lived in caves while the occupation army searched them out. Survival took imagination, a hardy spirit and considerable good fortune.Just about every town or village of any size in the Tromso region and Finnmark seems to have some type of museum so that no one forgets. Now, as we head towards the North Cape, the wind seems to have a bite which would make some sense.
The fish and quality of it in this part of Norway is just superb. I am in seventh heaven given the flavourful preparation of cod, salmon, flounder, herring and mackeral.
