Alone in Patara
Trip Start
May 22, 2008
1
66
112
Trip End
May 31, 2010
Although this was just an overnight trip, it was one of our highlights of Turkey. Patara is now a tiny village but was a significant Lycian port and also the birthplace of St Nicholas the Patron Saint of sailors and Christmas. It started off with nice bus ride down the coast and into the town. By chance, we take a room at the mayors pension right off the main square. We drop our bags off and head out to the ruins.
As we approach it, the sun and clouds have formed a perfect backdrop to the countryside. We wander through fields of daisies, almost tripping over chunks of carved marble strewn across the ground. We come across big black and white cows, stray dogs and huge bumblebees. All of us are enjoying what spring has to offer. This place is amazing. Around the ancient port (which is now silted up) we can clearly how this city was laid out. The main avenue has marble columns leading up to a grand entrance. Scattered around are interesting pieces of marble inscribed with dates and events. To the side, huddled around a crumbling bathhouse is a grove of extremely rare palms trees, dating back (of course) to ancient times. The best thing is that we have the entire site to ourselves.
Heading further down the road, we explore the impressive amphitheater. It's in remarkable shape, apparently being covered by a massive sand dune for hundreds of years helped preserve it. We walk through the upper tunnel and get a feeling of what it must have been like. This very spot hosted all kind of cultural, political, and entertainment events.
At the end of our hike we approach the sand dunes and beyond that the sea. We find our spot and are lulled to sleep by the ocean’s waves. The warm day turned overcast and the breeze cool. As we stroll back to town a stray dog comes out of nowhere to check us out, we have no food but we play fetch all the way back.
We are ready for diner and the pension chef asks us what we want to try. We aren’t sure so the Mayor gets up from his table and suggests a mix plate of Mezze dishes; mashed eggplant, tomato salad, rice wrapped in grape leaf wraps (dolmas), onion salad, turnips, olives, fresh goat cheese and bread. Good finish of the day.
The next morning we find out that the bus stand is on the main highway, "about 2KM away" is what the chef says. Not so bad, so we shoo-shoo the local cabbie and decide to walk. About 2 KM later we know figure there is still more to go since we can see nothing but tomato farms on one side and pine trees on the other. The cabbie passes us without looking (maybe laughing at us), but I think he is holding a bit of a grudge. Here we are dragging our bags on a lonely road, determined and cheap. At 3 KM a van stops and yells something to us, I wave to say hello and the guy jumps back in and takes off. Did we just flip him off or something?? OK, no more waving. About 4 KM, a man stops and asked if we needed a ride. He’s speaking Turkish, but we get what he is saying. We nod this time and jump in. At what feels like 6 KM we hit the highway, he drops us off, we cross the road and watch as several busses pass. We are looking for the sign for Fetiye. Ten minutes later, we wave one down and board. That was easy… right?
As we approach it, the sun and clouds have formed a perfect backdrop to the countryside. We wander through fields of daisies, almost tripping over chunks of carved marble strewn across the ground. We come across big black and white cows, stray dogs and huge bumblebees. All of us are enjoying what spring has to offer. This place is amazing. Around the ancient port (which is now silted up) we can clearly how this city was laid out. The main avenue has marble columns leading up to a grand entrance. Scattered around are interesting pieces of marble inscribed with dates and events. To the side, huddled around a crumbling bathhouse is a grove of extremely rare palms trees, dating back (of course) to ancient times. The best thing is that we have the entire site to ourselves.
Heading further down the road, we explore the impressive amphitheater. It's in remarkable shape, apparently being covered by a massive sand dune for hundreds of years helped preserve it. We walk through the upper tunnel and get a feeling of what it must have been like. This very spot hosted all kind of cultural, political, and entertainment events.
Arch of Modestus
We find carvings in the stone of shields, helmets and weapons. We take a minute to laugh at the goats playing king of the mountain.At the end of our hike we approach the sand dunes and beyond that the sea. We find our spot and are lulled to sleep by the ocean’s waves. The warm day turned overcast and the breeze cool. As we stroll back to town a stray dog comes out of nowhere to check us out, we have no food but we play fetch all the way back.
We are ready for diner and the pension chef asks us what we want to try. We aren’t sure so the Mayor gets up from his table and suggests a mix plate of Mezze dishes; mashed eggplant, tomato salad, rice wrapped in grape leaf wraps (dolmas), onion salad, turnips, olives, fresh goat cheese and bread. Good finish of the day.
The next morning we find out that the bus stand is on the main highway, "about 2KM away" is what the chef says. Not so bad, so we shoo-shoo the local cabbie and decide to walk. About 2 KM later we know figure there is still more to go since we can see nothing but tomato farms on one side and pine trees on the other. The cabbie passes us without looking (maybe laughing at us), but I think he is holding a bit of a grudge. Here we are dragging our bags on a lonely road, determined and cheap. At 3 KM a van stops and yells something to us, I wave to say hello and the guy jumps back in and takes off. Did we just flip him off or something?? OK, no more waving. About 4 KM, a man stops and asked if we needed a ride. He’s speaking Turkish, but we get what he is saying. We nod this time and jump in. At what feels like 6 KM we hit the highway, he drops us off, we cross the road and watch as several busses pass. We are looking for the sign for Fetiye. Ten minutes later, we wave one down and board. That was easy… right?

