Crossing the Line and going North....a few steps!

Trip Start Dec 01, 1999
1
67
103
Trip End Aug 31, 2000


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow

Flag of Korea Rep.  ,
Thursday, March 16, 2000

Due to tensions on the Korean Peninsula, limited banking facilities, exchange rates & suspended diplomatic relations between Australia and the DPRK I believe it is necessary to avoid any travel to this country.
 
             Phone: 02 6261 3305
 
             Further advice when traveling;      Australian Embassy, Beijing:
                                                                 21 Dongzhimenwai Dajie
                                                                 Sanlitun
                                                                 Beijing 100600
                                                                 Ph: 86 10   6532 2331
                                                                 Fx: 86 10   6532 4605
_________________________________________________________
 
Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,
 
I received the above email from the Dept of Foreign Affairs and trade in Canberra after sending them an email when I was in China.  I really wanted to see if it was possible to find a way into North Korea and to travel. 
 
Needless to say I forgot the subject pretty much straight away until yesterday!
 
I found out you can actually do a one day organized tour that takes you to what is known as the DMZ or Demilitarize Zone or the 38th Parallel!
 
Anyone got anymore names for it! 
 
What is it?
 
After fighting fighting fighting there was finally a ceasefire between both the North Korean Army (who's helping hand was the Soviet Union) and South Korean Army (who's best buddy was the US along with soldiers from Europe, NZ and Australia).  The ceasefire happened on July 27th, 1953.  What happened next was the creation of a four kilometer zone of 'nothingness!' 
This is the DMZ!
 
What you also have is a ceasefire and a ceasefire only. 
 
There has actually never been a peace treaty signed so what you have are two countries that are still actually at war.  So what do you have when you have two countries still at war?  You have a lot of soldiers on both sides.  And when I say a lot of soldiers, I mean the DMZ is the most heavily guarded zone in the world.
 
My tour took me to Joint Security Area and a place called Panmunjeom.  On the way there our bus driver was swapped for an American Soldier and soon your bus is led and guarded by a vehicle that looks like a small tank.  Once off the bus we then have to show our passports to get through. 
 
Mate, it's like its own little war torn country!
 
Here each side has their own buildings some of which sit right on the MDL (Military Demarcation Line is the line that runs right through the middle of the 4 km wide DMZ), so half of it is in the north and the other half sits in the south.  These are the conference rooms where all the 'war talk stuff happens'. 
 
This is where it all becomes a little touristy in as much of a touristy way such a place can be!
 
Both sides have tour groups that include people like me who for some stupid reason actually want to visit this place and step inside one of these conference rooms where you can freely cross the MDL and walk into North Korea.  It's only a half conference room walk until you reach a South Korean ROC Soldier who I'm sure would happily tare you apart and then take you back to your bus if you tried to walk any further. 
 
So for all those travelers who add a country to their 'been to' list just because they've been to the airport to change planes then this day takes it one step further!  Can I say that I have been to North Korea?  Not really, but I can say I have visited a tiny bit of North Korea and that a soldier would have happily thrown me back into South Korea if I tried to go any further! 
 
And I did need my pass port to 'Cross That Line!
 
So anyhow, around the conference rooms and all these buildings you have hundreds of heavily armed soldiers all waiting for something to happen.  After walking around for awhile it all becomes a little like a children's playground.  Each side's soldiers stand and try to look tougher and scarier than the other sides. 
 
It's like;
 
Hey you, over there! 
Look at me, I'm so tough I can stand in this Martial Arts stance for five hours!
Oops no.....20 hours! 
Can you?
 
So was it scary being there?
 
Even though it's like a children's playground, these countries are actually still at war.  Some things have happened over the years that have lead to several deaths at the DMZ so as safe as you feel with all the armed to the teeth US and South Korean soldiers you have to remember that not far away are another bunch of school yard bullies from the 'other side' who are just as armed.
 
Believe it or not but there have been four tunnels discovered running beneath the DMZ that have been dug by the North Koreans.  The first was found in 1974, the second in 1975, the third in 1978 and the last was discovered in 1990.  The last tunnel is about 1600 meters long and 150 meters underground. 
 
Now how safe do I feel in South Korea!
1990 mate!
Unbelievable!
 
Here's some more silly school yard stuff for you.
 
There are also two villages within the DMZ.  On the south's side is Daeseong-Dong and it is a real village with traditional people living there.  To live or visit you must have family members living there now or in the past. 
 
Here's the funny part. 
 
As the south had a village within the DMZ the northern boys started jumping up and down crying 'you have a village there, you have a village there, we want one too!'  Theirs is called Gijeong-Dong or Propaganda Village as no one actually lives there and for up to twenty hours a day the northerner's blast propaganda to the southerners through huge loud speakers. 
 
Here's some more funny stuff.
 
The southerners built a 100 meter (around about) flag pole so then the northerners began crying 'you've got a big flag pole, you've got a big flag pole, we want one too!' and came back with a 160 meter flag pole.   
 
Now boys, it doesn't really matter how big your flag pole is!
It's how you use your flagpole!
Sheez!
 
Unbelievable!
Eat your beans and mash and then it's time for bed kiddies!
Oh and don't forget to brush your teeth!
 
Oh one good thing about the DMZ!
 
Because no bugger has gone there for such a long time, it is now one of, if not THE most well preserved pieces of land in the world. The wild life is supposed to be thriving beyond words!  Problem for humans (if things are ever worked out between the school yard bullies) if it ever gets turned into a wild life sanctuary are the millions of land mines there.
 
I won't be going!
 
What else is there in this violent school yard?
 
Oh it houses the world's most dangerous golf course. 
Seriously, there is a one hole golf course and supposedly in the past whilst playing some army golfers have been shot at. 
 
Beers N Cheers toya....shane
 
Accommodation:
Inn Daewon
26 Tongju - Dong
Chongnu - Gu
KWANGHWAMUN AREA
Ph: 735 7891
______________________________________
 
The soundtrack to this entry was Living Colour.
The album was the funkin, groovealistic 'Times Up'
Print this entry Seoul hotels