Khao Sok National Park

Trip Start Aug 20, 2006
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Trip End Ongoing


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Where I stayed
Baan Khao Sok Resort

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Friday, September 15, 2006

Khao Sok National Park was a holiday within a holiday. I'm staying in a simple dwelling. A bamboo shack alongside the Cheow Lan lake, with a backdrop of magnificent limestone karsts. The Baan Khao Sok Resort as it is called, (however, the word 'Resort' really does not apply here)is run by the very sweet family of Lek, his wife Pawn, his mother Op, and his father. Oh, and not to forget the very cute pooch Mi Mi. The tranquility of the Park is consuming. The treasured moments of having a simple breakfast alongside this lake while watching the gibbons play in the trees and hearing the morning song of large hornbills, or spending time in the kitchen with Op while she shares some of her handed down recipes.

For the week I am here I am treated like a member of the family.

Adventure Day.....A group of travellers arrive and Lek decides to take us in a longtail boat through the Rajjaphana Dam. The Government in it's infinite wisdom, decided to Dam a large portion of the forest, leaving much of the wildlife, including tigers, gibbons, elephants and leopards stranded. Not the mention the people dwelling there. As I look at the tips of the tree cemeteries poking through the waters surface, I can only imagine the sight of the forests former glory.

We stop for lunch at one of the relocated villages that has now been transformed into a floating community. After lunch we trek for 2 hours through this leech infested forest. Mud up to our knees,crossing many a river. Sometimes the current is so strong that we either all hold hands or cling to a rope that has been slung from one side of the river to the other. 01 - Riverside breakfast table
01 - Riverside breakfast table


We reach what I think is our destination, the Namtaloo Cave. Ok, time to turn on our head lamps....this way we can see the cause of the stench - hundreds of bats. We follow the river inside the cave. Water at times up to our chins and flowing strong. There's lots of slipping on the wet cave rocks and crawling on our bellies to get through tiny holes. A few of the girls in the group start to get very upset. After an hour of this and only 100m from the cave exit and our very anticipated lost friend the sun, Lek tells us that we cannot go any further. He says the water in the next passage is too strong and will be dangerous. We are forced to turn back. "Cue twinges of fear".... possibly slight panic. I can hear the groups thoughts...."Wonder if the sun will still be up when we get out"...."I just made it going WITH the current, now we have to go AGAINST IT"...."Wouldn't the boat have expected us to go through to the end? Are we stranded here?". Ok, so they could have just been my thoughts, but I've got a hunch I wasn't alone.

The moment we spotted sunlight peering around a corner, the echo of relieved sighs filled the cave. We were home free!...and had only to get to the boat and avoid the leeches on the way.

LEECH COUNT: 3
(I hit the jackpot for the day, but hey, if the jackpot is 3, I don't think I did so bad)

That evening the beer was like nectar after the day we had had. We all sat around and talked about our humble adventure that through the day had made us all feel like "Indiana Jones".

Needless to say, the next couple of days were spent relaxing and taking in a few easy walks through the National Park, only encountering one addition to my sucking tally.

LEECH COUNT: 4

I'm sure in an attempt to remind us of the peaceful nature of the National Park, Pawn and Lek's dad took us all on a day trip to the natural hot springs. Thai men and women, some wearing shower caps, bathed in the warmth. We all tried eggs which had been boiled in the springs...tasty.

Tuesday 19 September 2006: I was due to leave for Bangkok yesterday, but decided to cancel my plans and stay at the Park an additional day.
Wednesday 20 September 2006: On waking received a text message from mum advising me of the Military Coup in Bangkok. I would have arrived there this morning. I surely have someone looking over me.
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