Varanasi

Trip Start Jun 11, 2005
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Trip End Dec 22, 2005


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Flag of India  ,
Monday, June 20, 2005

After a 45 hour train journey from Goa via Bombay (which had just been hit by the 1st monsoon rains, so was even filthier than usual) we arrived in Varanasi to incerator like record temperatures of 47C. We stayed in what was supposed to be an atmospheric hotel overlooking the ghats on the Ganges but it turned out to be somewhat rundown and despite a fan we weren't able to sleep a wink because of the unbearable heat.

We hadn't been able to visit Varanasi on our 3 previous trips to India so were determined to experience it this time. However, may be due to the extreme heat, we were quite disappointed. It's a fasctinating and unique place for sure, but the old city is filthy and crowded and we didn't feel that spiritual!.

We took an early morning boat trip to see the ghats - burning bodies neighbouring those where locals and pilgrims happily washed next to sewage effluants. We saw a dead child (whose bodies apparently don't burn well) being taken by his father and boatman to the middle of the river and dropped with a heavy stone to the bottom with no ceremony or mourning. The river was low, so there was a lot of action on the ghats themselves (cricket, massages etc), but the heat was unbearable so we ended up finding a hotel with a swimming pool for some relief.

In the evening we went to an indian music recital with pipe (a la snake charmer), big wooden flute and drums. It was pleasant and relaxing but difficult to follow the different beat we're used to in the west.
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