Hitch Hiking Romania and Walking into Ukraina!
Trip Start
Aug 21, 2004
1
2
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Trip End
Sep 16, 2004
Chernivtsi,
Ukraine
Wednesday, September 1, 2004
In Northern Romania (home of "Dracula", by the way!)...9pm at night...40km from "home"...no buses...no public transportation...how did I get there?
Well...here's my story (and I am sticking to it!):
Paul was a "Border Bouncing" throughout Romania...in search of a passage between Romania and the Ukraine (kinda a modern day search for the mythical "Northwest Passage"--just as that one was never found, neither was my search fruitful--due to very greedy officials and boat captains...and...2km-long-roads that pass through neighboring countries requiring an additional visa).
So...in search of what was behind Door # 3...Paul hopped an early long-distance train (7 hr trip) from Galati (Southeastern Romania) to Suceava (Northeastern Romania)...
But...first...let's get back to Suceava (a central point for touring the "Painted Monasteries").
Arrival in Suceava was met with a difficult temptation to overcome--the express train for Moscow (which passes through Ukraine) was waiting at my station! A few moments of hesitation and inquiry...then...a decision had to be made--I am staying in Romania for one more day!
**For any of you who have traveled "Budget-Style"--you probably understand my dilemma best--it sure isn't fun lugging around all your luggage in search of yet-to-be-found accomodations at prices you can afford**
But...off a wandering in the town of Suceava went Paul.
After chats with a Mennonite from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania (who works with orphanages in Romania--with "Christian Aid International")...a stop for an ice cream...and...some extended wandering...I was in a place to call "home" by about 4pm.
Quickly back out on the street...I found the "Auto Gara" (bus station) by 4:30pm and was on a bus bound for "Gura Humorului" by 4:45pm (efficient so far!). But...beware of starting late in the day on an adventure! If my arrival around 6:30pm in town wasn't enough of an omen...my 45 minute walk to the Monastery should have ended any doubts I would return on time...
Any-the-ways...after stepping back in time for the evening and feeling medieval (indeed, this part of Romania is more medieval than modern)...I enjoyed the monastery's painted sides (known as "The Sistine Chapel of the East"--Voronet Monastery has frescoes painted on the OUTSIDE)...enjoyed a cup of fresh Blackberries...took pictures of horse-drawn carts...pics of the green green hills...and of women-without-teeth-wearing-bonnets and looking very much the "Babuska" part!
Then...I began to realize...I don't live in this back-in-time-hamlet! Time to go! Next thing I know...a local woman is yelling at me "Get On!" over and over (well, yelling in Romanian--hence my difficulty in understanding!). So...a spontaneous ride in a horse-drawn carriage I went--with building supplies, hay, mom, grandma and two grandchildren!
Back to the main street, I paused to take another picture with a two-toothed grandma looking like a haggled old wicked witch straight out of the Wizard of Oz...
**In hindsight...it did feel kinda "Halloween-ish" in that village...well...actually ALL OVER Northern Romania!!!**
Then...as night descended, I wandered back into el-bus-station-oh, and was met by Romanian men sharing some liquor who reaffirmed my suspicion--no buses tonight!
So...off a walking and a hitch hiking I went...into the night!
Many kilometers of walking a country road in Romania...no rides...finally...a big truck! He stopped...but...when I said "Suceava"--nope, they weren't going there :(
--I wondered why he didn't offer to drop me further ahead?--
Another car pulled over...same story but...this time I stopped him from leaving...and...persuaded him to at least drop me down the road...
More waiting in the dark...then...finally...a ride to Suceava. Yea!!!
And...soon I was to discover, my ride was somewhat of a spontaneous shuttle--picking up scattered individuals out of the dark and delivering them on their way (pretty cool!). And...at rides end, each passenger offered the driver some money...so...worked out well all around!!!
I made it home...and...too tired to even take a shower...out like a light was Paul.
Next Day--to the Ukraine!
When my arrival at the train station was not met by happy news (the morning train was cancelled for some reason...so...I would have to wait an additional 4 hours for the next one)...I decided to once again set off in search of the Ukraine via whatever method might result...hey, it worked out yesterday! And...actually...the thought of "walking into the Ukraine" did sound kinda exciting to me! Would it be Old Soviet Style Border--complete with barbed-wire, machine guns and guard towers? Attack Dogs too?
Negotiations with 3 separate drivers led to an eventual price I was happy with (4 Euros for a 50km trip)...and...to the border we (as well as 2 others who traveled to Siret--the town on the Romanian side of the border) went.
The Romanian border patrol restricted entrance to our vehicle...then...told me to get into another! So...didn't even have to walk far! The "other" vehicle included an Austrian History/Geography Professor and two random other people...lucky me! I got an introduction to Ukraine...and...turns out...a ride to Chernovisk (sp?) as well--for about $5 USD. All is well for Paul! The weather is great...this town is fun for walking...and...I ended up inside some extravagent-and-beautiful-theatre (similar to the Lincoln Center in NYC)--complete with gold gilding and a huge chandelier! Nice theatre...but...the event was very boring...lots of talking...the national anthem...lots of clapping...standing up...sitting down...eventually I left (at least it was FREE!).
A warm day in Ukraina...wish you were here!
Paul
p.s. No...no barbed-wire...no gun towers...no attack dogs...maybe one machine gun!
