3rd March 2013

Trip Start Mar 23, 2013
Trip End May 05, 2013

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Flag of Spain  , Castille and León,
Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Laura and Sabina must return to Germany now, so I say goodbye at the bus station.  I am very sad to see them go but look forward to meeting more people.  My foot is a bit better so I am starting to enjoy the walk now.  Unfortunately there is a thick mist that does not shift until the late afternoon.  I meet three Irish girls in very high spirits as they go home tomorrow.  They have done the first bit and will return next year, this is very common and with the injuries I now realalise its a good way of doing it.........
I also pass 2 Spanish girls who have stopped for a break, they play music and dance in the middle of nowhere, they laugh and its contagious.   I eventually arrive in a town called Belorado. I planned to stay the night but feel very well so walk on with another Korean girl called Sunny.  She speaks good English, she has a ready smile and laughs a lot. 
I have walked nearly 30 km today so stop at a small village called Tosantos, it has a small church run hostel.  I am sad that Sunny walks on, but that's the way it goes.  The hostel is very friendly, there are only 4 Spanish and two German guests so its not crowded like many.  We sleep in one room on mattresses on the floor, its very cold and for the first time I realise why I took my warm bag.
I arrived about 5pm.  I pop to the bar across the road for refreshment, before a quick nap, as dinner is not till 8pm.  The landlady is very charming and speaks enough English to give me  a lesson in Spanish wine.  I try refreshments from various parts of Spain and eventually leave very refreshed and all for just a few Euros.  As I leave the kind lady gives me a present of a plastic water bottle that is a copy of the old fashion type.  I will strap it to my rucksack and will keep it as a souvenir.  I am very taken with this charming lady, its a shame she is already taken as I am coming to love this country, its slower pace of life and the kindness of all I meet. 
I return to the hostel for a much needed kip.  I am awakened by the German lady as its nearly 8 and dinner time, she did not want me to miss it.  She really should have left me another hour as it was a Spanish 8 O´clock.......
The warden and the older gentlemen who ran the place spoke little English, but the German Lady translated as one of the Spanish walkers spoke some German.  The older Spanish warden spent 15 years doing up this old hostel, that was deserted since the Spanish civil war.  It re-opened in 2005 and held up to 30 walkers.  There was no charge for the night, it included dinner and breakfast, as it was a church run hostel.  The dinner was a salad starter and a simple bean stew with sausage in it, it was delicious after a hard day but was very late so we were all falling asleep over it.  The German Lady was a very sprightly 74 and came from Hamburg.  Its amazing what you talk about, she had a daughter who was a drug addict for 10 years and eventually ended up as a psychiatrist. She seemed a bit ashamed that she was a psychiatrist for some reason?
After dinner the old warden took us upstairs to a little chapel in the attic, we had evening prayers.  They had the prayers in several languages, so we all read out parts in our own language.  It was very moving and a lovely end to a long day.
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