Friday 29th March 2013, pictures to follow

Trip Start Mar 23, 2013
Trip End May 05, 2013

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Where I stayed
Another Hostel

Flag of Spain  , Navarra,
Friday, March 29, 2013

I must first tell you about Thursday evenings dinner, Jan, Sabine, Laura and I went to a little cafe recommended by the new Austrian warden at the hostel.  It was very busy with the locals so we thought it must be good!!!  We had the tapas, the sardines were good, the prawns so so, the tortilla were just little omelets and the potatas bravas was just chips with ketchup.  I had been telling them how good Potatas Bravas was, so they thought I was mad.  My share was 15 Euros for the worst tapas I have ever had.  Back at the hostel I had to get some Spanish girls to explain what it should have been like, but they still thought I´m mad so no change there then!
The Austrian warden was a charming lady that re-payed the bad recommendation with free refreshment until 1 in the morning, funnily enough I slept very well that night!  Even without the excellent refreshment it was the most charming and friendly hostel.
The next morning was cold but clear, it was the one I was most looking forward too as it was the free wine fountain at Irache!  This little town has a fountain that gives you free wine or water, its a gimmick to promote the wine.  Oh boy its rough, so needs all the help it can get.  However by the second pint it was getting pretty good, after that it gets a bit hazy for a while so I will look at the pictures later......
We crawled on through what I remember was beautiful countryside, eventually stopping about a small town for second breakfast.  Jan walked on, as he just gets into his stride and keeps going.  Laura had gone by bus to the next stop, as her feet were bad.  Sabina and I had got into the habit of stopping every few hours for a coffee and tortilla to keep us going.  We called these second breakfast, third breakfast, first lunch etc.  As we have to be out the hostels by 8 in the morning we had plenty of time for these breaks.  If it was after twelve it became beer O´clock and became first lunch.  These cafes were always in little villages with beautiful views. 
It was only 22 km today, but my left ankle started to hurt.   It put out my posture, so soon my left knee and hip were also killing me, it made those 22 km seem an awful long way especially as it rained hard the last 5 or 6 km. 
We stayed at a private hostel in Los Arcos, the warden was not very friendly or helpful which was very unusual.  As it was good Friday we went to the church for Mass.  It was a beautiful church with gold inlaid on the walls, it very dark inside so the pictures are not great.  There was to be a procession but it was raining so hard it was canceled.  I photograph the statues that should have been carried through the streets, it was a shame not to see it. 
After a terrible dinner the night before Jan could not stand anymore bad food so cooked for the four of us.  He made a pasta with Spanish sausage, it was beautiful, it was his own recipe that he would not share.  He was a Celtic fan and occasionally flew over to Glasgow to see a match.  He loved putting on a Scottish accent and said "no way you bastard" when I pressed him for the recipe.  Jan now wanted to leave at 6 in the morning and press hard to Logrono.  As I would be staying at a hotel with my friend Ian I would not be seeing him again.  We said our goodbye's, he said every man must walk his own Camino.  I am not sure if he meant he must walk on alone or every man must find his own way in life, I think he meant a bit of both.  If you are lucky you occasionally meet someone that just makes your life feel richer when you are with them and poorer when they are gone, Jan was just such a friend.
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