Panajachel_Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Trip Start
Apr 07, 2006
1
16
31
Trip End
Aug 18, 2006
Panajachel,
Guatemala
Saturday, June 17, 2006
On Sunday I was pretty excited to be going to the local markets in Chichicastenango (another cool name, but a tongue-twister) on the main trading day for the Mayan locals. The day started off well when I met an old wise Turkish guy while waiting for the bus - he had me in stitches with his anecdotes and wise words.
The bus ride (3 buses) was great - I was the only non-Mayan (all the tourists take shuttle buses). The bus was jam packed with two to a seat as the Mayans took their wares to market. Let me say I reckon the Mayas would win any game of twister and easily break the Guinness record for the number of people that can fit in a Mini.
Chichicastenango was absolutely brilliant - quite a sight to behold. Everyone from babies to geriatrics were going about their business in the town, mostly dressed up in traditional dress.
01_Masks at Chichicastenango
It reminded me alot of the markets in the sacred valley of the Incas in Peru. If the Mayans and Incas are not related, they certainly crossed paths at some point in their history. The traditional clothes (very bright and colourful and intricately embroidered materials) and art is very similar, as well as the way the indigenous people look. You could buy just about anything at the markets from pigs and chickens to maize and beans to any woven article to second hand shoes (not matched unless you got lucky) to nudie playing cards (??) and too many things to mention here... I know a few girls I went to South America with that would have had a field day in the markets. Even I bought a few things.The highlight of Chichi (and Guatemala so far) was the cathedral. The Mayans are generally Catholic, but have kept many of their traditional beliefs and gods. So just like a typical Catholic cathedra there's a dome and an altar, but in addition there are shamans chanting to the gods while burning incense. The floors are also covered with rose petals, burning candles and burning incense. Quite spiritual. I was also fortunate enough to see an old shaman making an offering to the earth god for the continued fertility of the earth. Quite moving!!
The bus ride back to Panajachel was fairly uneventful as I'm now pretty much used to having a snotty nosed kid sitting on my lap for most of the way. I really love catching the local busses because it gives you a real taste for how the locals live...as well as improving my Spanish because I HAVE to understand what's being said and make myself understood to get to my destination.
The busses back to Antigua on Monday must rate as the most 'interesting' ever. On the second leg I sat next to a drunk guy (at 10AM!!) who reckoned the louder he shouted (and the more he spat) the more Spanish I would understand. Needless to say the old 'No intiendo' came in handy. Fortunately he gave up when he saw my guidebook and 'read' it for the next 15 minutes. On the next leg the bus driver was trying to break the speed record from Quadros Caminos to Chamaltanango, an he was doing a mighty fine job of it. All this while only putting our lives in mortal danger 4 or 5 times. Funnily enough I was the only one that flinched as we narrowly missed oncoming traffic while he was overtaking on a blind rise....Finally the last bus has to be the fullest bus I've ever seen. 3 to a seat and they kept coming. I don't reckon a Guatemalan has ever uttered the words 'The bus is full'....
Comments
nice!
Hahaha, i love the way people get surprised when they ride a bus here in Guatemala...its a mortal trap thats for sure...and a bus is never full, once i saw here in the city a guy who was hanging from the windshield of the bus...he was looking...happy, actually very happy XD, but i was so stupid dangerous, anyway glad you like my country :P, you should come more often and great story too :D, i´m really curious to see how people see my country from other point of view, cause near my work there are a lot of people from other countries around