Before I continue, I wanted to include some first impressions of Taiwan from back during my first day in Taipei. Above all else, the scooters are ridiculous. They ride in swarms of hundreds. The sidewalks are choked with them, both parked and in motion. They collect in intersections at red lights, and when the light turns green, it's chaos. Like a $99 wedding dress sale at Bernies Bargain Basement every couple blocks, but everyone's motorized. I also soon found that everyone in Taiwan is extremely helpful and kind. The women are also way hotter than anywhere I've yet been. I think good ol' Chang Kai Shek brought all the ladies with him and left Mao in Fuglyville. Anyway, back to our regularly scheduled program...
I woke up after my first night in Hualien with a slight hangover. Ya Chen has a penchant for mojitos. Sarah, however, doesn't drink and was up with the sun. I awoke to her standing next to the bed -- eyes bright and tail bushy -- holding breakfast. I told you she became a good friend very quickly. After fueling on sweet bread and eggs, Jon, Sarah, and I rented scooters near the train station. Only one place would rent to us due to our lack of International Drivers Licences. Jon and I each had a hog, and Sarah rode on the back. It is looking bleaker and bleaker for the possibility of me uploading pictures anytime soon, so I need you all to picture Jon and myself riding parallel down an open highway. Keep that scene in your mind. Now dig up your old tapes of CHiPs reruns. I don't think I have to tell you who the Eric Estrada look alike is. He's been 'Ponch' to me ever since.
We set out for Taroko Gorge which, annoyingly enough, really requires pictures. But that doesn't mean I'm going to give up writing a description. Not this time. I'll tell you my immediate thought upon slipping between the first towering walls: This place makes Hawaii look like Delaware. Looking back, I have no real idea what that means, but I figured it bears repeating because there's usually truth to be found in nonsensicle reactions. I think I was just blown away. Taroko reminded me vaguely of Waimea Canyon on Kauai, but was impressive to a degree of near incomparability.
The above recountance of a reaction isn't nearly enough to say because my time in Taroko Gorge puts everything else I've yet seen, done, and experienced to shame. Even the Great Wall. Yeah, I wrote that. Even the Great Wall couldn't awe me like Taroko Gorge. I think I can explain it better through an allegory.
This past summer, I spent the week of July 4th with a few of the Rowland clan at their Idaho cabin. Buddy and I drove up just ahead of Herb (H2) and Fritz. Pat was already up there. On one of our first nights in Island Park, Idaho, a thunderstorm rolled in and surrounded us. We watched one front approach out of the West from the comfort of the century-old cabin's porch. It began as a flicker on the horizon, like a fluorescent bulb behind cumulous curtains. The winds were swift, and before we knew it, we had to retreat from the deluge above us. What appeared as flickers on the horizon were blinding explosions overhead. It seemed as though daylight were battling for its rightful place in the sky; only succeeding in fleeting, violent bursts. We each stationed ourselfs in front of rattling panes of aged glass, eyes scanning for ground strikes nearby. I've only been in a few lightning storms in my life. I believe they all took place while in or en route to the Mid West. This trumped them all, and the others in the cabin echoed that sentiment. As we gazed skyward, there was the occasional splay of sparks from a lone bottle rocket. Some ignorant hick was setting off some fireworks a few days early amidst a once in a lifetime storm of blinding light and deafening percussion. Herb (H2) who may or may not have had a drink that night, I can't remember, shouted at the hillbillies that their efforts were futile. Their wimpy little fireworks had nothing on God.
That's how I've come to see Taroko Gorge in relation to the Great Wall. I've been to some impressive fireworks displays, and I'll probably attend many more. But nothing in pyrotechnics will ever compare to the storm I witnessed that night. The Great Wall was indeed great. It's inspiring what we humans can produce. But the snaking, stone wall pales against the snaking chasm of sheer marble cliffs, lush jungle, cascading falls.
It rained on us as we rode, and we took refuge in a cafe. I'd already flown to Taiwan without informing my parents. I then rented a scooter, which I know would make my mom nervous. Riding in the rain would not only be stupid, but I'd likely be disowned. Go ahead, call me a mama's boy. (But if you do, I'm telling). When the rain let up we continued our exploration. Up a winding road, on top of a plateau was an aboriginal village. We stopped for tea.
Through tunnels and over bridges, Jon, Sarah, and I followed the swath that the river cut into the rock. Night fell and we found a hostel Jon and I had researched our first day in Taipei. The three of us stayed there that night in a room with one twin and one double bed. It was the first time Jon and I have had to share a bed. He threatened to pee on me during the night. I threatened to mummify him if he did. We three fell asleep laughing after a perfect day.
I speak of the gorge, but not much of Sarah. I'd like to save her for a later entry. This one's long enough. I'd just like to state here that as gorgeous as Taroko was, the day itself was memorable because Sarah was there with us. Anyway, as I say, more on her later. Let's see if I can't get some pictures up for you.
More thumbnails ...
5 votes 
