Grenada and the Amazing Alhambra

  Granada, Andalusia, Spain and Canary Islands
Wednesday, July 9, 2008

(Updated with pictures)
I continue to be amazed that I end the day tired after sleeping over 9 hours the night before.  Iīm fairly sure, however, that this is more of a testament to the full days and over 100 degree heat, rather than to the lack of sleep.

Continuing from where I left off...Sevilla was a blast.  We hit up flamenco the last night

Flamenco

...ironically, it was the same place that I went to the last time I was in Sevilla, back during my junior college semester abroad.  The show was as good as I remember it, though. Even more interesting was the fact that there was a decent range of experience and age of dancers, and you could tell that experience matters - the oldest dancer was a lady in her mid 40s or 50s, but she had a grace that none of the other dancers could even approach.

We headed to Granada the next morning.  Granada is not a town that, by itself, has much to offer.  The cathedral is nice - more so in how it manages to loom over the city as a beautiful backdrop instead of as a hulking mass.

Cathedral from the square

Surrounding it are a number of spice sellers, as well.

Spices galore outside the cathedral

Their stalls smell incredible due to over 50 or so different spices, ground flowers, and herbs.

Another interesting scenic element to the cathedral area are the Gypsy women trying to hand you a branch from some local tree.  If you accept, they grab your hand, read you fortune, and demand money.  And since coins are bad luck, and the smallest bill is 5 euro...well, you donīt get your hand back until you pay.

(Needless to say, I didnīt pay.  I still remember my lecture from Italy about gypsies..Ļif you see gypsy kids start coming towards you, start swinging, or prepare to lose your wallet.Ļ hah.)

Clearly the best part of the city, though, is the Alhambra, the best example of Moorish architecture left standing.

Alhambra from the next hill

An ancient palace + fort that was built in the 12th century,

Alcazaba Fort at Alhambra

it had been expanded and conquered by everyone from the Moors to the Visiogoths to the Catholics. 

Nazaries Palace 2

And while there have been a lot of changes, one of the most beautiful parts still standing is the Nazaries Palace.  The detailed plaster work that was done in the walls and the ceilings has a level of detail that blows the mind.

Nazaries Palace wall detail

Nazaries Palace ceiling

Itīs a gorgeous, relaxing place. When I think of relaxing places, my top three are:
* A certain Shinto shrine I know in Kyoto
* The olive grove at the Villa Fiesole in Florence, Italy.
* Uncle Charlieīs brick and exposed rafter den in Vermont.

With that said, the Nazaries Palace isnīt far behind.

Nazaries Palace 1

If you are in Spain, it is a must see.

(Speaking of Italy, I had some Spanish pizza today.  Ugh!  What I wouldnīt give for a little thin crust from Fiesole or Florence...although I will admit that the Tapas here are delicious.)

Off to sleep.  Flying to Bilbao tomorrow and wonīt be online for a day or two...have a good one!
Dave