Angkor what? Angkor Wat
Trip Start
Jul 25, 2006
1
141
165
Trip End
Ongoing
Siem Reap,
Cambodia
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
The real draw of Siem Riep, and the reason I had come to Cambodia in the first place, are the Khmer temples of Angkor Wat. The massive temples of Angkor were built from between the 9th century to the 13th century. A city of temples, it was also a huge metropolis of over a million people at a time when London had less than 50,000. The reason little sign of human habitations remain is that all lodgings were made from wood, the Khmers believing that only the gods were worthy to live in stone. These lodgings have long since rotted or decayed away, leaving behind only the skeletons of the massive temples
Angkor Wat
.While the entire complex is amazing, the four main temples that receive the most visitors and most photos taken are Ankor Wat, the iconic image of its towers seen everywhere in Cambodia, Angkor Thom, the ancient fortified city, Bayon with its dozens of mysterious stone faces peering serenely out into the jungle beyond, and Ta Prohm which is slowly being swallowed by nature as it has been left in the state in which it was found. Despite the numbers of tourists who come here, it is still relatively easy to find a lost corner in a temple to yourself, and imagine what it must have been like during the height of the Khmer Empire. This empire was the largest in South East Asian history, stretching from northern Malaysia, through Thailand, Loa, and Vietnam.
After a day or two of relaxing in town, Danayi and I prepared to head out to Angkor Wat. Cambodia has fully realized the tourist dollars available for Angkor, and a visit is not cheap. A one day pass was around $25, while a three day pass was $40, and a $60 week long pass was also possible. We opted for the three day pass.
We organized a motorcycle rickshaw through our hotel and headed out to the temple complex around 5:30 am to try and catch a sunrise photo of the iconic towers of Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
. Despite the early hour, we were far from alone. Hundreds of other tourists were lined up, each wanting their own 'unique' photo of sunrise over Angkor Wat. On this particular morning, it was very overcast, and while the sky brightened, there was no sunrise to be seen.The rest of the day was my own little version of playing Tomb Raider and living Indiana Jones fantasies. Granted, Angelina Jolie might look a little nicer in those tight shorts than me, but she couldn't bring anymore enthusiasm to the day than I did. As well, my little fantasies were also frequently interrupted by tour buses of elderly Korean tourists touting more camera paraphernalia than a CNN war correspondent and other cargo short wearing, back pack touting travellers also trying to live out their own little Cambodian dream. Even the hoards of tourists and massive dehydration could not damper my spirits. It's a wonderful thing to experience the fulfilment of a life's dream.
All together, we spent two days in the temple complex. It is massive, and one could easily spend a week going through all the sites. We walked through blistering sun, and torrential downpours. The rain gave an otherworldy feeling to the ruins, and soon we were nearly by ourselves. Standing in the anteroom of an ancient temple, looking at the rain pelting the stone temples and thrashing the branches of the encroaching jungle was about as atmospheric as it gets
Angkor Wat
.Once again, I find myself experiencing a strange sort of writer's block when faced with certain things of this trip that had significant meaning to me (mountains gorillas in Uganda, safari in Tanzania and Namibia). Suffice to say, the ruins, despite the commercialization, sometimes hassle and expense, is worthy of Wonder of the World status. My photos simply cannot portray the immensity and grandeur of Angkor Wat, fortunately my memories can.
An addendum: The temple of Ta Prohm with its decaying walls and tower swallowing trees is the site of a little known, but hotly debated mystery. Located along the lintel of a door inside the compound is a small carving that some claim is proof that dinosaurs co-existed with humans (Creationists! On your mark, get set....). The authenticity of the carving seems valid and all indicators are that it is part of the original door's decoration. Some who view the carving say it is indisputably a triceratops. Other claim it is a stylization of another animal such as an anteater or rhinoceros. They claim the 'fins' are simply bushes in the background. Others claim it is simply decoration. Look at the photo and post what you think. Ancient hoax? Proof cavemen did get eaten by T-rexs? An ancient artisan who went too far with a Khmer "Take your slave child to work Day?" Discuss.
If you are heading there yourself, send me an email and I will try to direct you where it is found. I spent way too much time looking for the thing, and would gladly save you the grief if I can.
Comments
Ha!
That looks like a stegasaurus to me! Amazing, who knows? Maybe they had archaeologists living at Angkor Wat back in the day too!
Louise Brown
TravelPod Community Manager