Annapurna Circuit - Day 10 - Himalayan Laxatives
Trip Start
Jul 25, 2006
1
124
165
Trip End
Ongoing
Yak Kharka,
Nepal
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Total Kilometres: 99 Today: 9
The self surgery on my feet seemed to help. Still sore, but much better than before.
It was a late start today. The distance wasn't too great, and Pia started the day feeling unwell. Matt had been to the toilet frequently throughout the night, and I had visited the loo four times before we finally set off just after 10 am. It turns out (as we found out later tonight from an American couple) that the sea buckthorn juice we had so happily been chugging for two days is one of nature's great laxatives.
Colons cleansed, we set off late morning to Yak Kharka where we would spend the night to acclimatize
Day 10 - 12
. At over 4000 metres, altitude sickness is a very real possibility. The morning started tough. Getting breath seemed difficult as we started our ascent from Manang to the next village. The views over the valley and the mountains were spectacular. After the first hour, I seemed to find my groove. I was a machine today. Considering how much pain I was in at the beginning of the trek, I can't believe how steady and fast I was today. I was constantly leaving Matt and Pia behind instead of the other way around. I hope I can stay strong and manage the pass with my pack.
On the way today, I rounded a corner and came across a local shepherd with a large flock of long haired goats. He was very friendly, sitting on a hill counting off prayers with his prayer beads. He asked for a lighter or a cigarette. This seemed to be the extent of his English. While not having either, he seemed quite content with the granola bar I gave him. Take that Big Tobacco. He was quite happy to pose for a few photos, and we parted ways with a friendly wave.
The weather grew very windy and overcast as the afternoon stretched on. For the first time of the trek, I dug out my fleece and wore it while hiking
Day 10 - 21
. As I came around a bend in the trail I found a Nepali woman resting on side of the path, her huge bundle of firewood beside her. Although her face was extremely weathered she didn't appear to much more than 40 at most. She appeared to be mute, but indicated she wanted a drink of my water. After drinking she then indicated she wanted her photo taken. I obliged. After this came plea for a gift. I ended up giving her a packet of Strepsils and 15 rupees.On the final approach to Yak Kharka, I spotted some rare Blue Sheep clinging to the side of a steep valley wall opposite me. They looked neither blue, nor like sheep but rather like miniature brown deer. Clinging to the sides of the cliffs, and all on the hills above shaggy black yaks grazed, giving the village it's name I suppose.
This village is strange. It is very cold and there is not a tree to be seen. With the exception of a couple of guesthouses, there seem to be no houses. Everyone seems to live in tents and makeshift shelters made from tarps. It has a much less tamed feeling than previous villages. The landscape here is barren and harsh and this seems to seep into the atmosphere of the place, although the people are not unfriendly. It just feels like a place where humans are not meant to be living. (* Note: I have since found out the people living in tents and tarps were there to try to harvest the strange "strong like bull" worms of the previous entry.)
Tomorrow we head to Thorung Phedi, the "foot of the hill", our last stop before attempting to climb a 1000 metres over Thorung La Pass, the largest, highest pass in the world.
