Annapurna Circuit - Day 5 - Goodbye Gram

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  Chame, Nepal
Tuesday, May 13, 2008

May 13th - Day 5 - Danaqyu (2200 m) to Chame (2710 m)
Total Kilometres: 56 Today: 12

Ass kicker of a climb to Timang to start the day. Vegetation and environment changes noticeable. Earlier there were deciduous trees, now pines and felling more rugged. Air cooling and beginning to feel altitude a little.

At rest stop in Timang, a Nepali woman looked at me and hunched her shoulders and held her arms to indicate I was strong. Then she puffed out her cheeks and held a pretend belly to indicate I was fat. What's with these people? I love them, but come on...

Physically I am in rough shape with two blisters on my right foot and a pulled calf muscle in the left leg

Day 5 - 13

. I am struggling but still plodding along. Matt and Pia haven't left me yet and I'm glad as they are good company.

Two porters from different groups along the way have indicated they might be interested in carrying my bag from Manang onwards, over the pass if I wish. I need to consider seriously as I'm not sure I can do it on my own. I think getting them to do it would muich cheaper than hiring on ein Mananag (1000 rupees a day, and I have to pay for them to walk back!)

In Chame tonight I played with some children with my camera and got some great shots. The town is beautiful with an incredible natural setting. The clouds lifted for a few minutres and I think I saw my first glimpse of the Annapurnas. I used the internet for 12 minutes which cost me 120 rupees, or what two hours would cost in Pokara, or four hours in Kathmandu. Didbn't have time to read many, but one was from Mom - Gram died.

Eleven years ago, around this time of year, I was on my first trip overseas, made contact with home, and found out my grandfather, Puppy, died. Now again.

In some ways, this was a blessing I suppose, as Gram had been poorly for a long time

Day 5 - 44

. Still.

One of my best memories of Gram involved my birthdays through my early teens. My favourite pie in the world used to be Strawberry Rhubarb pie and by happy coincidence my birthday fell in a month when these were just beginning to be found fresh. Each year all I ever wanted for my birthday from Gram was a strawberry Rhubarb Pie and each year she delivered. Thank you Gram.

Gram lived a hard life. Basically a poor single mother in a rural, small minded town with six kids, life never handed her any favours. She was a survivor, a trait passed onto her children, and something that defines my mother.

Rest easy Gram. You were loved and in the act of producing my mother, a good and strong woman, you made my life possible. For that you will always deserve my love and memories. Sleep well.

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