Poking around Pokhara

Trip Start Jul 25, 2006
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114
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Nepal  , Pokhara,
Friday, May 2, 2008

Finally after about a month, I bought a bus ticket and headed to Pokhara, about 200 kilometers west of Kathmandu and the base for trekking into the Annapurna region of the Himalayas. Pokhara sits on the shore of Fewa Lake, one of the largest lakes in Nepal. In comparison to Kathmandu, Pokhara is a quiet little town, the perfect place to chill out and plan your epic trek into the mountains. I arrived, brimming with energy, and ready to head out after a couple of days into the mountains.

That was almost a month ago.

What can I say? I'm a lousy world traveler. I get into a place I like and I stay.

But this is a lovely place to get stuck Pokhara 17
Pokhara 17
.

I am now fast friends with various restaurant workers, juice bar owners, and internet cafe employees. Everyday I walk into town along the lake, about a twenty minute walk to the main strip of the Lakeside area. A couple of weeks ago I rented a motorcycle and traveled all throughout the region, chalking up just under 200 kilometres in one day. Considering the amount of hairpin turns, and road conditions, that was a very respectable number.

Last week, the carnival came to town in honour of the Nepali New Year's. It had been postponed due to the election. Wandering around was like what I thought country fairs in North America might have been like back in the 1950s and 60s. The rides were hilarious, and some them were actually pushed in circles by the attendant himself, having no engine to propel them. My favourite show was the "Ring of Death!" (my name). This was an incredibly rickety circle of wooden slats about three stories high. I climbed to the top and looked down into the ring where a couple of cars and motorcycles waited. Without warning, a couple of guys jumped on the bikes and started driving around the wall at the bottom where it slanted out to meet the ground. Suddenly, they gunned the engines and were flying around the ring, a few feet from the top of the bowl and the spectators' faces Pokhara 14
Pokhara 14
. Not to be out done, two more men jumped into the cars and starting doing the same thing. Not content to simply drive at a 90 degree angle perpendicular to the ground on a wobbly wooden wall three stories above ground, they started getting fancy. The motorcycle drivers started sitting side saddle and letting go of the handlebars. The car drivers opened their doors, and climbed out (a door nearly clipping me as I leaned in for a photo and didn't realize how close to the top they were). Motorcycles and cars linked up as their drivers leaned over to hold hands while zooming around at high speed. That's how I like my entertainment! Motorcycles, compact cars, and danger! All that was missing was a Monster Truck rally afterwards, and red neck carnies selling dope under the bleachers.

As this is the tail end of the dry season, the skies are hazy, and heavy with dust and humidity. This makes for unpleasant conditions for photography, and except for a very brief moment one day, the incredible mountains that normally reflect in the mirror of the lake surface are invisible. Every few days there is usually a heavy storm in the afternoon, rain and occasionally hail the size of marbles pelting down. I think I have made a poor decision to start my trek now, but if not now, when?

I hope the next time you hear from me, it's after I have been punishing my body (and losing some belly) for a while in the mountains. Knowing me, however, there is always the chance that, like always, I'll leave 'tomorrow'.
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