Harems, Bombs, and the Head of John the Baptist
Trip Start
Jul 25, 2006
1
7
165
Trip End
Ongoing
Istanbul,
Turkey
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
One of the most amazing things about the palace is it's collection of artifacts. Yes, it has amazing jewels, and scepters, but nothing beats a good religious relic, and ceremonial castration device. Istanbul used to be Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantium Empire, which was the eastern half of the Roman Empire - the part that didn't fall, well, until about a thousand years later to the Muslim Ottoman Turks. As a result, Istanbul is a mixture of ancient Christian monuments reborn as Muslim monuments (eg - the Aya Sofia). Sitting behind glass in Topiki Palace was a Christian treasure, taken by the Turks when they conquered Constantinople - the skull and arm of John the Baptist. (Now for the sake of academic honesty, I should mention that Wikipedia lists at least 4 different claims to John the Baptist's head, and at least two right arms). I'm a sucker for a good relic, the weirder, the better.
Another real prize of the Palace, and certainly more celebrated in this predominantly Muslim country, is the collection of artefacts relating to Mohammed the Prophet. In a room, tastefully displayed with an imam in the corner of the room quietly singing from the Qu'ran, are hairs, a tooth, and a preserved footprint from the prophet, as well as a letter written by him, his swords, his bow, and other artefacts. Quite a collection and not one I had expected to see.
I just found out today that there were bombings in Turkey over the weekend in the town on Marmaris, a tourist area on the Aegean, and in Istanbul. Three people killed, and quite a few injured in Mamaris, and no one killed, but six injured in Istanbul. A Kurdish liberation/terrorist (perspective, perspective) has taken responsibility. It raises an interesting and difficult question about Turkey - the Kurds. According to what I have read, they are the world's largest "nation" without a homeland. Scattered throughout Syria, Iraq, Iran, and Turkey they have systematically suffered at the hands of all the a fore mentioned countries. According to some sources, they have been in the same area longer than any of the other groups in the area (since at least the 2nd century BCE). After World War I, the Treaty of Sevres created the modern states of Iraq, Syria, and Kuwait, and was supposed to include provisions for an independent Kurdistan, but after the overthrow of the Turkish monarchy by Kemal Ataturk, Turkey, Iran, and Iraq refused to recognize an independent Kurdish state. Other sources say that Britain did not honour the commitment in the treaty, opting instead to fold the disputed area into the territory of Iraq, then a British protectorate, and thus giving Britain access and control over the resource (read - oil) rich area. Which ever explanation you prefer, things have been going downhill ever since, with an active (although some say increasingly marginalized) Kurdish liberation movement.
In Turkey, at least some Kurds have decided to take things into their own hands. The PKK has been the most high profile in their struggle with the Turkish government. Turkey has not reacted gently either, with both sides responsible for terrible acts. This most recent bombings seem to be the responsibility of another group, not the PKK. In a statement released to the media, they have vowed to make Turkey a "living hell".
It is an interesting phenomenon that nobody here really seems that worked up about the bombings, or even really discussing them. If this had happened in Canada or the U.S., there would be 24 hour media coverage. Off to Selcuk, and the ruins of Ephesus tonight.
Comments
Istanbul
Very interesting blog about the politics of the area. We are going in one week and can't wait!