How we became ladies who lunch in Budapest.

  Budapest, Hungary
Tuesday, July 1, 2008

We awoke yesterday and headed off to get the train to Budapest. We had sussed out the tram we needed, all was well. Then came the rain!! I've never seen rain like it. At least it was vertical not like the horizontal stuff we get in Scotland and it was warm. Some of the showers I've had weren't as powerful as this, or as hot. The tram was a bit late (of course) but we made the train station in plenty of time cos, guess what!!!??? The train to Budapest was 40 minutes late. Now we are so used to this, it is just water off a duck's back (pardon the pun).We got on the train when it came and threw a wee man oot of our seat. That always feels good! It was a good journey for most of which we had the carriage to ourselves. We arrived at Budepest Keleti station to a nightmare really. We handled it well but it seems to be par for the course when back packing. Here's the story.

I had spent a bit of time researching the best way to get to Italy from Budapest and had, in a print out(thank God), details of an overnight sleeper that we wanted to get that went straight from Budapest to Venice. We wanted to upgrade to first class to get a bed and cabin as it is a 16 hour journey. So we went to international ticket sales and took a ticket where we waited 2 hours to be served. No seats. Now, you could look on this as a nightmare or you can do as we did and meet some really nice travellers. A young guy from Costa Rica, he gave us his metro ticket and map, and another group of young guys from the states. I was forewarned about a particular assistant who gave duff info to the Costa Rican lad and, sods law, we got her!

I presented my print out and she tried to tell me that I didn't need a reservation in very bad English so I painted on my best smile and told her in words of one syllable what to do. Lots of smiling and laughing and eventually, she began to thaw and I think we've got the right tickets although I was just about sans mum as she only booked one ticket and if I hadn't spotted it, I'd be on my own. It looks, though, as if she may be sharing with someone else in a cabin. I have a cunning plan. She has an upper bunk so I'm going to ask someone to swap telling them she is incontinent. Do you think it'll work? I'll let you know if it is the right train when we get there (or somewhere else).

After a bit of aimless wandering, duff info and really helpful people we got off a bus at the Gellert Hotel.

Gellert outside

We checked in and went to our room. Sumptious or what, with a view overlooking the danube. 

The Shining?

Stairwell of Gellert

Drinking fountain at Gellert

The first thing we did was get the cossies on and down to the spa. 

Helen and Annette off to the spa

We swam in the pool and soaked in the 38 degree thermal spa and went to the outside thermal bath. It was great. Nobody cares what they look like. There were oldies wandering about in flagranti in the spa. We kept our clothes on in true buttoned up British fashion. We must have been there for about 2 hours and when we came out we were really relaxed. I was here before with friends and I just want to let them know that it's the same wee wumin in the lift with her trendy white boots.

After this we decided to eat in the hotel. We had stopped off for a drink in the bar where the barman told us that the hotel was always quiet at this time of year as it is too hot in Budapest. We can back that one up.

We were the only people for dinner when we went in. There was no one in sight, or so we thought!

Oh, we're on our own!

We had just ordered when the Hungarian Gypsy band (Vicki it's the same lot from the other restaurant!) led by some guy called Berti something or other on fiddle followed us in and proceeded to play at us while we ate our entire meal.

Oh no we're not!

We eventually bought one of their albums because they were actually very good musicians and I like to support live music wherever I go, but predominantly to get rid of the buggers as I was struggling to keep a straight face. Mum was convinced the fiddle player had a wee  thing for me as he kept winkng at me. I pointed out to her that I was the only female in the place under 60.

Work in progress

We went to bed pretty much after our meal which was very nice but had real problems sleeping. This was an issue over both nights as there is extensive regeneration of the area around the hotel which goes on all night and it is so hot that you can't sleep without the window open.

hotel under construnction

There is no air conditioning and in spite of the great spa facilities and the lovely surroundings, this is the first time we have left somewhere as tired as when we came. Pity really. I can feel a complaint letter coming on! I spoke to the manager and aparently the owner is english and they have been asking for air conditioning for 10 years. Now we know why the hotel is empty in the summer.

The next day, we went to the spa again, this time for about 3 hours. We were like prunes. It was great! 

Hod it and Dod it!

We wandered up town in Pest looking like American tourists and were able to take some great photos.

Budapest is very different from the other places we have visited. It is much bigger for a start and is a real mix of old and new.

Church in Pest

Street in Pest

We went to a big indoor market selling lots of lovely fresh veg and food. It also sold a lot of tat that no doubt we would have bought if we hadn't been backpacking.

We then had a very civilised, healthy lunch back at the hotel (thus the ladies who lunch, Callum!!). Mum pointed out that our waiter was very handsome, a bit like Howard Keel. (I shall have to keep an eye on her).

The healthy Lunch

. We also had the best cup of tea we've had so far!

The best tea so far.

Annette and Helen off out

A fter a little bit of relaxation we headed out on the town, this time to find a restaurant in Buda, this side of the river, that we saw in a guide.


We walked pretty far and realised we would have to go up the fenicular railway which mum didn't fancy and we saw a wee restautrant and went in.

Turns out the owner is Bakonyi Nandor, a Hungarian amateur boxing champion of past years. He had a picture of boxing champions on the wall that we think he must have fought.

Bakanyi Nandor - our host

One of these was Ken Buchanan, so we, again in hand gestures explained we were Scottish and out comes the trophy he won. He explained he won it in Glasgow in 1968 and 1975. He was fair chuffed that we were interested. When we went to go we bought an ice cream and bottle of water each and he wouldn't charge us and was shouting Viva Scotland!! How brilliant!! We aslo took some photos of the chain bridge which was designed and built by Clark Adam, another Scot.

Adam bridge at night

After our crap night's sleep last night, we have checked out, duly complained and are sitting in the business centre of the hotel paying way too much for the internet. You better appreciate this. We are going to kill time until we get the train overnight to Venice at 17.00. It looks like another 38 degree day so wish us luck!