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Krakow, an oasis after a mad day of travel
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Picture this:
It's 4.20am and you are arriving at a big empty station to get a 6 hour train to Warsaw from Berlin only to find out it is 2 hours late.
Your breakfast consists of a strange thing only found outside Scotland called a McCroissant and a tea. You have been up since 3 am in order to get a connecting local train to the main station having had about 1 hours sleep (see updated berlin entry for details!) You need to get your reserved seat on the Warsaw to Krakow train but that's not going to happen now. You are carrying 5 stone of rucksack between you and its about 28 degrees. You are carrying way to much weight in all senses of the expression for this kind of heat AND you are about 20 years too old to be doing this and wonder why you started at all. However, we eventually board the train and take our seats which, I have to say were great, like Parker Knoll recliners (remember them?). At least we got some sleep in spite of yapping dogs and blethering bairns. We arrived in Warsaw station, as predicted, 2hrs 30minutes late with a piece of paper written by the train ticket inspector of where to go to sort out the next train to Krakow. Trying to keep a brave face on things when you are in a strange Polish station and all the signs bear no resemblance to any words or indeed combination of letters you may recognise, is frustrating. We did find the office we needed and took our number (61-they were at 30 when we started!) We actually only waited about 20 minutes and a lovely girl transferred our reservations for us in perfect English and we had 20 minutes for the next train. Tried to take money from a machine and it wouldn't give us it so changed 100 euro at a crap rate and grabbed 2 dubious looking rolls and started running about like headless chickens looking for the right platform. Eventually another lovely Polish girl (they are so beautiful) took us to our platform and she wasn't even going there! We settled on the train in a compartment a bit like you see in Agatha Christie films.
The steps up to these trains are lethal, huge spaces between the platform and the train and big steps. Scary stuff! A really nice man lifted all our bags up to the rack in the compartment. Two lovely American girls came in with their rucksacks and he did the gentlemanly thing again and put them up on the rack for them. We all chatted during the trip and it was really nice. This train was also slightly delayed getting us in a total of 3 hours late.
All joking aside, I looked at my mum and thought, oh my god, I'm killing her! I was really worried it was too much when we were walking from the train station to our hostel in Krakow. A very long 10 minutes with a heavy weight to carry. I was really feeling it too. We even talked of skipping Bratislava and various other drastic measures.
It's amazing what a fantastic hostel,
a great welcome, a good meal, good company, good cup of tea and a great night's sleep will do for you. We went to sleep last night after having absolutely pruned every last item surplus to requirements from our bags. Basically, if we could buy it here if we needed it and/or it was not irreplaceable - it went. I'm talking shoes, jeans, ipod speakers, toilettries, guide books. You name it it is gone! Our packs are much lighter (particularly mine). We are in a positive frame of mind again and all plans are back on track. As my mum said - all systems go.
Last night we met a really good guy called Shane from Australia and the three of us went out to get some Polish food and we bumped into a lovely girl from Sweden called Sara and her mother. They kindly shared their table with us in a packed restaurant and we had a great meal alfresco in the stunningly beautiful central square in Krakow.
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For anybody who remembers lard, here's a photo.
This morning we got up and were met with a fantastic breakfast at this fabby hostel, Mundo Hostel. The internet access is included as well as the tea/coffee and breakfast. The room is lovely, we have the one with the en suite. Even the shared facility rooms seem really nice. The staff are friendly and helpful especially Anita who welcomed us last night. After this we headed up to the main square where we visited the lovely church and had a drink before booking a table in a stunning retaurant which has live music.
I think it's going to cost but it seems a bit special. It's called The Piano Rouge and we'll let you know what it was like later.
This afternoon we decided to visit Auschwitz. I have mixed feelings about this type of tourist visit, however we felt it was important to us to see the place first hand as it would feel wrong to bypass it when we are so close. We were on our way to get the scheduled bus and to pay for a tour when we got there which would have cost us around 40 pounds. Anyway this wee fat guys came up and offered to take is in his taxi for a fee(initially 60 pounds but we knocked him down to 50). I was a bit suspicious but he said he would take us there, wait for us, bring us back and we then would pay him. I threatened him with violence if he mucked us about as he was smaller than me and he laughed and we went with him. I know it's not really the right thing to do but we just had a gut feeling. he had his young nephew with him to translate and a nice card from an Irish women thanking him for a good tour. He had a registered taxi cab. As it happens he was a good choice because he was knowledgeable about the surrounding area and he advised us not to take the tour guide there but he gave us an English guide book and we were able to go at our own pace and leave when we wanted.
We were so glad because we found it extremely harrowing and very emotional. We are glad we went, though. It's hard to explain what it's like. I took one photo of the main gate before we went in and couldn't bring myself to take any more photos.
Unlike some people who took photos in, what we feel were inappropriate places and of inappropriate things. Signs specifically asked for people to show respect. I don't think that is showing respect. It is a place of contemplation. A visit to Birkenau was a part of the plan but we couldn't face it. I can recommend this wee guy. I can't remember his name but his number plate was KR6644V. He's safe and cheap for a private tour. Remember to haggle, I probably could have got it cheaper.
After taking a break in the hostel, we set out for our evening. We strolled to the square where we sat and listened to the street buskers and watched the horse drawn carriages passing by. At 9pm we went in for our meal. When we first arrived we were the only people there and started to have a sneaking suspicion that the 25 pounds we paid to reserve the table may have been a mistake. However, the place quickly filled up when the band started and most of the other tables in the tiny room were reserved. It had a really bohemian atmosphere. A bit like the fast show jazz sketch - ...nice. Cross that with the beat poet scene in So I Married an Axe Murderer and your just about there. The jazz band were fantastic. All fantastic musicians and the singer had a real feel for the music with excellent phrasing. Our meal was superb, a steak even my husband Callum might have liked. We expected it to be really expensive but the meal came to 45 pounds including drinks - 2 or 3 cocktails for me. I have paid more than 70 pounds for a less enjoyable night so we didnt mind paying the reservation fee.We were on our way out when a couple came in looking for a seat, we envited them to sit at our table as we would soon be leaving. We started chatting and discovered that the were on tour with Celine Dion. The guy was the chiropracter for the dancers and the girl was Celines personal hairstylist. They both lived in vegas and were on tour for a year. They were really nice.
When we got back to the hostel Shane was there and Anita was on noght shift. We said our goodbyes and Anita said she would make us up breakfast for when we left at 5.45. She was a star. We have a few more photos to upload but the internet place we are in doesnt have the facilities so I will let you know when they are up and running.
Latest Comments (4)
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Re: concentration camps (reply)
Jul 13, 2008 15:50 EST by divachappie
I know, it still stays with you.
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In reply to:
I'm a bit behind with my reading; have been in the wilds of Scotland with no internet. I know what you mean about Auschwitz. We went to Dachau. I stood in the gas chamber crying my eyes out. Even hundreds of schoolkids charging about couldn't destroy the atmosphere of menace. It's j... show all
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concentration camps (reply)
Jul 13, 2008 14:10 EST by hilarystevenson
I'm a bit behind with my reading; have been in the wilds of Scotland with no internet. I know what you mean about Auschwitz. We went to Dachau. I stood in the gas chamber crying my eyes out. Even hundreds of schoolkids charging about couldn't destroy the atmosphere of menace. It's just such recent history.
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The unstopable duo (reply)
Jun 28, 2008 10:10 EST by cbrotherston
Just checked out your last update and photos. Anna particularly liked the lard piece 'is that bird poo !'.
Looks fab, wish I was with you. look after the feet (recommend compede plasters). Looking forward to your next update.
love caroline x
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Krakow express (reply)
Jun 27, 2008 14:21 EST by phhg01
photos are great. Wheres todays Nellyism?
hope the new 'comfy' shoes are doing the job.
love Hazel x
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